#16
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If they wanted to be realistic, They should show at least one RCA with pva rot! When I was servicing those things in the seventies they were already looking bad...
Most people found it difficult to purchase a new color tv back then (at least around here)and bought second hand roundies and late 60's stuff for their homes. There was one customer I had that didn't get a color tv until 1981 when I sold him a CTC 22! As a matter of fact, That set came from my first ad I placed for non working sets back then! I paid for very few of them, Most of the time the people would gladly give them to me just to get them out of their house! This was '81 and I was getting CTC 7's through 16's regularly, They were still in use until then! Back then I hated the round sets because they looked so old to me and were not worth as much for resale! When I would go to a house to pick up a tv odds were that it was one of those, I had so many that I started storing them at my Uncle's house (and others!) Earlier this year, I finally got the last few that were left there by me in the eighties and gave several to Doug. Last edited by captainmoody; 05-30-2003 at 07:48 AM. |
#17
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Toy Story 2
Rented the movie Toy Story 2 today. There is Predicta Holiday in it owned by the story's bad guy. I realize it is animated, but they did a pretty decent job making it look the way it's supposed to. In fact, it plays pretty good to. This one plays B&W, so at least they got that part right!
BTW... the movie is pretty funny. The one liners really cracked me up! The bloopers at the end were hilarious!
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#18
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Charlie,
The picture on your CM roundie looks really nice! Is this the one you restored emission with temporary increased filament voltage? Rob |
#19
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Thanks Rob... yes that's the one I cranked up to 8 volts for a few hours. I was really amazed at the difference in the color and brightness. Here is another shot from the same movie. I have really had a blast watching these computer-generated animated movies on this TV.
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#20
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captainmoody,
I know the feeling of having to make do with used stuff in the '70s--I did a lot of that back then. My first color TV was a second-hand Sears Silvertone roundie from 1964. Got it in 1970 from a man in my hometown who had had the set in his garage for years. The set needed very little to get it working again (the circuit breaker was bad, so I just bypassed it; then the push-pull power switch on the volume control went West, so I bypassed it as well). I was able to get all three network stations from Cleveland reasonably well on the attic-mounted antenna in my house at the time (and later on rabbit ears when I moved closer to town in 1972); however, I never did get the convergence right, even though I fiddled with it as long as I had the TV. Later on, I had a hum bar in the picture I couldn't get rid of, not to mention a problem with the color sync going out every now and then. The set finally bit the dust for good in 1973, when the video-output tube socket broke out of one of the circuit boards. I would not dream of taking the back off of my present RCA XL-100 19" color set, let alone tinkering with the circuitry. These modern sets are beyond my understanding, although I understood tube sets fairly well 30+ years ago.
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Jeff, WB8NHV Collecting, restoring and enjoying vintage Zenith radios since 2002 Zenith. Gone, but not forgotten. |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Quote:
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#22
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Quote:
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#23
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In an effort to make the switches that still work on my vintage TV sets and radios last longer, I turn them off and on with the power disconnected. I then use a sperate external switch to apply power.
The hope is that this will at least reduce the damage from internal arcing. |
#24
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They finally wised up by the time they got to the CTC-68...it has a factory mounted microswitch behind the volume pot that is operated by the push-pull action. For some reason, though, some later RCA sets used the cheapo push-pull switch with the resulting switch failure.
On my GE round color the volume shaft pulled right out of the pot/switch one time I turned it on! I now am using a power strip to turn set on/off...will replace switch. Somewhere I have read about fires caused in CTC-16 and similar sets by arcing in the switch causing heat/sparks, and setting plastic gears on fire in the tuner and then dripping flaming plastic on the speaker cone and setting the set on fire. |
#25
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[QUOTE=Somewhere I have read about fires caused in CTC-16 and similar sets by arcing in the switch causing heat/sparks, and setting plastic gears on fire in the tuner and then dripping flaming plastic on the speaker cone and setting the set on fire.[/QUOTE]
yes, that was a serious problem with all of the early CTC series chassis that used a pull on-push off switch. i have personally encountered five of these sets. fortunately, the customer caught on to what was happening when the switch started burning & took steps to put the fire out. i was able to repair all of those sets. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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I had a problem with my CTC-12; bad enough that the switch was bad-there really isn't too much to it-but some numbskull had glued the knob on, had to destroy the knob & what was left of the switch pulling it out. I really wanted to switch to a newer style which uses a perpendicular mount slide switch, since I have a few used ones and they look more solid, but this set has a shaft something like 10" long & the newer ones needed about another 1/2", lots of NOS shafts here in a box but all much too short. Oh, well, for now it works. From now on I'll have to pay attention to this hazard, maybe some sort of fireproofing!
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Bryan |
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