Videokarma.org

Go Back   Videokarma.org TV - Video - Vintage Television & Radio Forums > Expeditions & Passions

We appreciate your help

in keeping this site going.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #46  
Old 09-17-2017, 11:17 PM
MIPS's Avatar
MIPS MIPS is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: West Canadia
Posts: 1,006
FYI I'm putting direct links to my images below the img tagged ones because after two months I am still not getting complaints from anyone about if they are just seeing the "bandwidth exceeded" notice from Photobucket.

Cleaned and reinstalled the central column today. The chains and bearings were oiled and work much better now. The motors for the fans are good and likewise the motor and gearbox for the chains sounds excellent.

I also started addressing the torque coupling for the motor shaft. At one point there was a tri-wing rubber insert that was part of the three-piece linkage but at some point it had presumably failed so the coupling was taped together. Likewise the cotter pins had gone missing and were replaced with nails. One came out with a hammer but the other had to be drilled out before I could install new cotter pins. The bottom half of the coupling is also apparently press fitted into a steel sleeve as it looks like it had started to split. This coupling really needs to be replaced if I could find a replacement.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/IMG_8701.jpg

There was also this switch at the bottom next to the thermostat. It is some sort of Health and Safety interlock component that when you turn to the 9 o-clock position winds a 30 minute timer and presses in a switch. When the counter returns to zero the switch releases but a thermostat holds the switch closed until the temperature rises above a set limit, at which point the switch releases and something somewhere in the vending machine shuts down.
When I got the machine it had been disconnected and bypassed. I found that the timer was not running until I flooded it with sewing machine oil and blew the excess out, then I could get that portion to work. The switch part also seemed good and the thermostat also seemed to function when I hung the assembly out of a freezer so indeed if the vending machine gets too warm it does...something.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7707.jpg

I also found that I had forgotten to paint one of the components and good thing I did not. It had a partial schematic on it!


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...cket/Photo.jpg

It's extremely hard to make out anything but I can clearly see the 13 doors and the plugboard for setting the prices, so this was probably the in-machine reference so you could rewire the doors for different values.
That in mind I sure hope you turned the machine off first. I've all but confirmed that the ENTIRE VENDING MACHINE OPERATES AT 120V AC. Lots of places in here to get zapped.

Finally because it's getting late in the year I rehung the door for now and checked some of the clearances. There is now very much signs that I am halfway done. The door is the last bit to finish and if I'm lucky I can get a good handle on that before the snow falls, then unfortunately the machine needs to be tarped up and moved so the car park can be used for the winter.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7708.jpg

Last edited by MIPS; 09-17-2017 at 11:23 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 09-24-2017, 01:15 PM
MIPS's Avatar
MIPS MIPS is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: West Canadia
Posts: 1,006
Spent last evening stripping down the door. A lot of the components again, are all screwed in so after a few dozen screws and about a dozen rivets on the exterior cladding you end up with this:


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7714.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7715.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/IMG_8730.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7716.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7717.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7718.jpg

Okay, so here is the plan again. The damage is limited mainly to that end of the door. Because all the bracketing components for the latch are spot welded to the FRONT of the door I can surgically cut the side off. While it is removed I can bang out the curling caused by a prybar being used to open the machine. Once that is squared up I can then weld in a new piece of steel and start with the rust treatment. The damaged coin slot opening will be repaired with another piece of sheet metal so I can bolt the coin cup back in. A new piece of sheet metal will go over the front to mask the rest of the scars, which itself will be clad in new fake wood grain vinyl.
The one thing I do not have is a source for the trim pieces. Half of them are too badly damaged to be reused but are required to mask some of the edges, gaps and rivets.

Unfortunately, I'm out of time for the year. The frost has arrived.
The machine will have to be tarped up and moved so the work area can hold a car and shovelling tools for the winter. I'll have to continue on the door in the spring.
Over the Winter however, I get the lucky task of starting to look over what remains of the wiring harness and figuring out how it all goes back together because guess who STILL cannot find the goddamn schematics? Ugh....
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 09-27-2017, 02:00 PM
Tim R. Tim R. is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Portlandia
Posts: 112
Absolutely incredible work you've done on this machine. Especially when dealing with the damaged sections of metal. That would have stopped me in my tracks.

I'm amazed that the selector mechanism operates on 120v. That seems unnecessarily dangerous. Imagine the liability if something failed, exposing the customer to line voltage!
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 09-29-2017, 08:32 AM
MIPS's Avatar
MIPS MIPS is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: West Canadia
Posts: 1,006
I think when I install the new cord either I will mount a GFCI inside machine before the fuses or it will be one of the wall-wart style units that is integrated into the plug.
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 09-29-2017, 09:49 AM
madlabs madlabs is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 388
As I mentioned earlier in this thread we used to rob these machines starting at the bottom and working your way up opening the doors. If you weren't careful you could get bit. Not being in a position to sue we just considered it the price of doing business!
Reply With Quote
Audiokarma
  #51  
Old 09-29-2017, 09:09 PM
MIPS's Avatar
MIPS MIPS is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: West Canadia
Posts: 1,006
I still want to confirm that once the door is rebuilt.
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 03-21-2018, 07:28 PM
MIPS's Avatar
MIPS MIPS is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: West Canadia
Posts: 1,006
So it only took something like two years but finally I can retire the blue strap that's holding the door shut on the Pepsi machine.



http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7869.jpg

Someone was selling full latch sets on Bonanza for $45USD which was half what I last saw anyone selling even partial sets for. In the end though after currency conversion and shipping I ended up paying around $100CAD for the damn thing, which in reality all I was after was the damn steel latch cam.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7870.jpg

However as it turned out I would need the whole assembly anyways. The first thing I discovered when I installed the cam was that the T-groove on the inside of the machine did not fit the cam. Vendo had more than one type of cam it seems.....


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7871.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7872.jpg

Deciding not to start cutting up the brand new cam I instead messed with the T-groove bracket as it was a thinner metal that I could flex and move about a little on its mounts. I was able to get the door to close and tightly latch, however in the process the latch jammed in the locked position.......

So I guess it was a good thing after all that I got a complete second latch set because I ended up completely destroying the original latch in order to get back into the machine.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7874.jpg

Eventually I decided the best way to make this work was to cut one half of the T-groove off and bolt the bracket as far inwards as it could go. Now the door will close and tightly latch without the possibility of jamming and I can still open and close it.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_7873.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 03-22-2018, 02:13 AM
MadMan's Avatar
MadMan MadMan is offline
The Resident Brony
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,217
Nice?
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:43 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
©Copyright 2012 VideoKarma.org, All rights reserved.