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  #1  
Old 06-16-2017, 12:38 AM
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lnx64 lnx64 is offline
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Is this really a Toshiba?

This is my parents old TV, and I have no idea who makes it. Says LXI Series, but I think it's a Toshiba, based on the parts. It also responds to Toshiba remote controls.

https://imgur.com/a/tiSnk

It had bad vertical foldover and a shrunken picture when I put it in storage several years ago.

Sadly the set is extremely dirty as my climate controlled storage unit failed and caused water damage that they never told me about until I checked on it after a year.
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Old 06-16-2017, 06:16 AM
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Yes, It's Toshiba made.

http://www.appliance411.com/parts/sears.shtml <--- Not totally inclusive for electronics, but complete enough. They also left out lawn/garden equipment. I have the whole list, but only on microfiche, thanks to Bryan Gadow.

There are about 7 electrolytics in that set that fail with regularity. If you had a picture of the board, I could map them out. 4 are in the vertical, and would cause the problems you detailed.
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Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 06-16-2017 at 06:22 AM.
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Old 06-16-2017, 07:38 AM
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I will 2nd Toshiba, no question about it. Every other LXI I have
seen has been a Sanyo. Both were very good sets.
As findm said change ALL the lytics in the V out. One of them
will blow the IC so change the IC. They were only a few bucks.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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  #4  
Old 06-16-2017, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
I will 2nd Toshiba, no question about it. Every other LXI I have
seen has been a Sanyo. Both were very good sets.
As findm said change ALL the lytics in the V out. One of them
will blow the IC so change the IC. They were only a few bucks.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
TA8403, TA8445 or something like that. Go with the electrolytics first - there are two smallish ones (2.2uf or 4.7uf or so), and two larger ones - one is a 1000uf, probably 25V, and the other is either a 100uF or 220uF - it's been a while. There are three others, one by the jungle chip - ESR was alway high, and the other two near the flyback, I forget the values and voltages. Chgeap fix - I've seen bad chips only when I had just a line. Any deflection means the chip is probably good, but go with the electrolytics first.

Sears had many rebadged sets - my favorites were the late 70s/early 80s Sanyos - great pix. Worst were the modular Toshibas of the early 80s. They also had a 1988ish LXI-badged Hitachi 19" monitor set, sold with a VCR that provided tuning. I was glad when Sears switched to selling name brand in the 90s, with no rebadged stuff. Montgomery Wards continued rebadging Sharp sets, and Kmart sold those lousy KMC sets. Sanyo went on to sell exclusively through Walmart for a while. I got one of the last Sanyo 32" NTSC sets at Walmart for 41.88, still sealed in the box. It's now my VCR test TV.....
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Old 06-16-2017, 12:59 PM
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I'll take it apart later tonight and get a board pic. I was shocked to see it had composite input, and apparently it may have a second AV input, somewhere though no jack for it. Reason I say that, is while the remote has an AV button, a universal remote app on my phone lists an AV2, and the TV does respond to it, and switches to it based on the LED readout, but no video from the composite input. So I wonder if it can indeed be modified for a second AV in..
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnx64 View Post
I'll take it apart later tonight and get a board pic. I was shocked to see it had composite input, and apparently it may have a second AV input, somewhere though no jack for it. Reason I say that, is while the remote has an AV button, a universal remote app on my phone lists an AV2, and the TV does respond to it, and switches to it based on the LED readout, but no video from the composite input. So I wonder if it can indeed be modified for a second AV in..
Have a look at the board. Odds are there will be near the first input (or front VS back) an identical set of solder pads for more input jacks. If it does it could be as simple as installing them, or there could be other parts that need to be added to make it work.

I see unpopulated board real-estate with all the utilities (traces) ready all the time in less than top of the line models. It is easier to have one dough and change the pizza toppings than make multiple doughs...So to speak.
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Old 06-16-2017, 02:09 PM
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Took it apart, and found no additional AV stuff, and it looks fairly well labelled. Oddly, even the tuner is marked as Sears.

https://imgur.com/a/c7aNl
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Old 06-16-2017, 10:36 PM
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Your bad vertical electrolytics will all be in the C300-C318 range, at the right, toward the front of the board. Replace any/all electrolytics within those cap numbers. One should be a 4.7uF at 160V or 250V - make sure it gets replaced. C314 or close to it...

There is also the red electrolytic cap over near the Jungle chip (big chip in the center of the board). Red deaths, we called them. Most were low value, 1/2.2/3.3/4.7uf or so. Replace it.

There is a 22uf/160 near the flyback - replace it. Modern 250V caps are the same size - go with a 22uf/250V cap. You'll get jailbars or intermittent shutdown when it goes -

I'm working from notes, as it's raining cats and dogs tonight, and I ain't going out to pull a Sams....
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Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 06-17-2017, 08:19 AM
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The 2 red jobs were tantalums one by the jungle & usually
one on the low side of the yoke IIRC. Common fail for many
Toshibas. One by jungle gave small size & the other lin
problem IIRC

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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  #10  
Old 06-17-2017, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
The 2 red jobs were tantalums one by the jungle & usually
one on the low side of the yoke IIRC. Common fail for many
Toshibas. One by jungle gave small size & the other lin
problem IIRC

73 Zeno
LFOD !
Look closer - there is one red clad radial electrolytic - Marcon made them. They were bad from the get-go. Decoupling for the Jungle Chip, and they cause fringe color problems, loss of sync, or chirping while changing channels. We found them through in-circuit ESR testing, but Toshiba issued a supplement to their manual, requiring changing them should a bad jungle chip be suspected.
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Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 06-17-2017, 11:55 PM
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As soon as I get my new workbench all fixed up, this set will be the first to go up on it. I'd like to see it work again.
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  #12  
Old 06-18-2017, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lnx64 View Post
As soon as I get my new workbench all fixed up, this set will be the first to go up on it. I'd like to see it work again.
Shoot me a list of caps (value/voltage) you need, and I'll dig through my stash. I'm weak on 160V and 250V stuff, but what I have is yours for postage.
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When fuses go to work, they quit!

Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 06-18-2017 at 06:21 AM. Reason: weak vs wek
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Old 06-18-2017, 08:39 PM
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Shoot me a list of caps (value/voltage) you need, and I'll dig through my stash. I'm weak on 160V and 250V stuff, but what I have is yours for postage.
Thanks, I'll stay in touch, if I can't find the caps in my own spare boards. It's going to probably be a while. Let's just say, the garage looks like a hoarders nest, and we are working to change that here, between me and my father whom I take care of these days.
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