#16
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Because of that however you are not the first person to wonder if you could add a crank start to a newer car. You would certainly need a release that would safely disengage the crank once the engine fires but on a small car like mine with the extra pulley for an optional AC compressor it's extremely tempting to try. Last edited by MIPS; 06-12-2018 at 09:06 PM. |
#17
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@ MadMan : Hmm, thought you're talking about cars that can be cranckshaft when you mentioned to pull them.
Yes, a tractor can helf. And even horses. But a old autmatic transmision car can't be hand crankshaft? |
#18
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A friend of mine an 80s Lada that still had the hole in the in the block for crank, but I don't remember it coming with the actual crank. It probably would have worked - while the body had been updated I doubt anything else was newer than a 60s design - there were certainly no electronics in it.
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#19
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To the OP: is this a theoretical question, or do you actually want to try it? The danger of hand cranking an engine, is kickback, when the engine starts and violently jerks the crank. A lot of people in the early 20th century got broken wrists from this, and there's a special open handed way to hold the crank to minimize the chance of this happening.
I have to say though, I don't know about you, but for me, my hands and wrists being in good shape basically determine my ability to work, and be financially solvent. I wouldn't want to risk them over a broken down car. Consider hand cranking an engine to be like asbestos insulation, or gasoline welding torches, or leaky steam boilers in houses, or using mercury to separate gold out of Ore. .. There's some things which are just too dangerous to your health do, no matter how traditional. It won't make anyone more of a man to be injured or dead in the course of a trivial activity like starting a car. |
#20
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An interesting thing is you can roll start some early automatics. I hear they even described it in the owners manual. This ended in the early 60's IIRC. IIRC it needed to be moving at ~20MPH for it to work...Probably only practical on hills.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#21
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@ maxhifi : I never tryed. I'm just curios.
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#23
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i push or roll started a mazda GLC for months.. starter went out... I pumped the tires up to about 50 psi, as i had to push it myself on a level street. parked on a hill when i could, but i could get it started on the flat if necessary, then it snowed and i had to go out and finally replace the starter.. too hard to push it in the snow.
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#24
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__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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Two words: heated garage... I set up a 5kW electric heater in my garage for such occasions, let it run for a full day before starting repairs. It doesn't change the fact that cars are absolutely filthy in the winter, but it sure takes the edge off. It was - 30C outside when the front main seal on my truck took a dump last winter. I think there's no getting around the fact that extreme weather provokes failures, gotta be prepared to deal with it.
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Audiokarma |
#26
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__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#27
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I use a 240V 5kW construction heater I picked up cheap at princess auto.. plugged into a 10AWG extension cord, which I run into the house through a basement window and plug into my electric dryer outlet. Total hack job yes, but that heater actually does make it tolerable in the garage. Especially if the heater is blasting at the general area of work. |
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