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  #31  
Old 08-15-2018, 03:15 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I plugged in all the tubes and everything else. After a few adjustments on the back of the chassis Bingo!

Still more to do but the picture is very encouraging.

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  #32  
Old 08-15-2018, 04:36 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Well, my Fusistor is open. I'm thinking of getting a chassis mount resistor and mounting on the back of the HV with leads long enough to reach the plug in sockets. I'll use the original open fusistor connector.

If I use the 5.6 ohms I get 288V for the 275V B+ line. If I go to 12 ohms I get 273V. Of course the 12 ohm resistor runs hotter. Remember I fused the power in. Does this secondary need to be fused?
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  #33  
Old 08-15-2018, 05:45 PM
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After all that work I would fuse the secondary.
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  #34  
Old 08-15-2018, 09:21 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I did the tuner today. I replaced the 1 paper cap and 10 resistors. 1 resistor I couldn't get to. Oh well. The 1/2W resistors were replaced with 1W and the 1W was replaced with a 2W. I then cleaned the tube sockets and used De-Oxit on the wafer switches. The tally is:

10 resistors replaced
5 out-of-tolerance
2 very close to being out-of-tolerance
3 were within tolerance.

I then tried the tv again. I got a clearer picture.







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  #35  
Old 08-16-2018, 03:00 PM
dcl0 dcl0 is offline
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Crist, It looks like you are using metal film resistors. What voltage rating did you use for your 1W and 2W resisistors? I'm especially interested in the ones under the HV rectifier tube socket? Thanks, in advance.
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  #36  
Old 08-16-2018, 03:05 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcl0 View Post
Crist, It looks like you are using metal film resistors. What voltage rating did you use for your 1W and 2W resisistors? I'm especially interested in the ones under the HV rectifier tube socket? Thanks, in advance.
For the 1W I try to use carbon film, but will use metal film too. For the 2W they are usually metal film. The carbon film are 500V, the 2W are 350V.
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  #37  
Old 08-16-2018, 07:44 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Today I added the new "Fusistor" and a 2A fast blow fuse. I had a 10 ohm 50W chassis mount resistor so I mounted it on the back of the HV cage. I then wired it to the original Fusistor connector. The 10 ohm value will give me a B+ voltage of 280V using my wall outlet which gives 123VAC. The normal B+ voltage is listed as 275V. This way when the HV cage needs to be removed they can be unplugged without any fuss.

I also installed the IF board cover.

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  #38  
Old 08-16-2018, 08:01 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I then turned my attention to the CRT/Yoke. I removed the CRT from the shell and gave the CRT a quick wipe down.
I replaced the 2 680 ohm resistors (both were within tolerance) and the 120pf 5KV capacitor. I used a 120pf 6KV cap for that.











I then cleaned up all the wiring and cleaned the connectors too. I then used my lacing cord to tie up each bundle neatly instead of the tape Philco used.



I then cleaned up the inside of the shell. It had a lot of "soot" in there. Now nice and clean.



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  #39  
Old 08-20-2018, 09:20 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I noticed that the wire going to the Plate Cap from the 6DQ6 Horizontal Output tube was missing some insulation where it enters the cap. I looked closer and noticed that the inside was was corroded green and needed attention.

I replaced the wire with some 20KV wire that I have.

I also used a silicone grommet where the wire exits the HV cage. Dan Jones gave me this tip at his presentation at this years ETF Convention.

All better now.








Last edited by Crist Rigott; 08-21-2018 at 12:55 AM.
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  #40  
Old 08-21-2018, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
I noticed that the wire going to the Plate Cap from the 6DQ6 Damper tube was missing some insulation where it enters the cap. I looked closer and noticed that the inside was was corroded green and needed attention.

I replaced the wire with some 20KV wire that I have.

I also used a silicone grommet where the wire exits the HV cage. Dan Jones gave me this tip at his presentation at this years ETF Convention.

All better now.
I believe you mean Horizontal Output.
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  #41  
Old 08-21-2018, 12:54 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Right! I'll make the correction. Thanks.
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  #42  
Old 08-22-2018, 10:58 AM
uncleputz uncleputz is offline
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Pardon the question of a rookie, but what did you use to clean the chassis? You do fantastic, detailed work. I wish my dexterity and eyesight were good enough to do work like you do. Quite impressive, and thank you for sharing your work with those of us trying to learn.
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  #43  
Old 08-22-2018, 08:49 PM
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Amazing work!
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  #44  
Old 08-22-2018, 09:32 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncleputz View Post
Pardon the question of a rookie, but what did you use to clean the chassis? You do fantastic, detailed work. I wish my dexterity and eyesight were good enough to do work like you do. Quite impressive, and thank you for sharing your work with those of us trying to learn.
I cleaned the chassis by taking it to the "Quarter" car wash. After taping placards and such I clean it by using the "Presoak" setting. This gives a gentle wash. Then I use the "Spot Free" setting to rinse it off.

Then either it goes outside in the hot Texas sun, or it gets baked in the oven at the lowest setting for an hour. Then the controls are sprayed with cleaner and WD-40.

Now its clean enough to work on.

Thanks for the kind words.
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  #45  
Old 08-23-2018, 07:39 PM
Tom9589 Tom9589 is offline
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In 1965 I was working for Georgia Power Company and we bought a Tektronix storage oscilloscope - a big purchase back then. Included in the purchase price was a one day class by Tektronix. The Tektronix guy started off telling us how to periodically clean the interior of the scope. He recommended soap and water, just like your method of cleaning, Crist. If Tektronix recommends it on a $3000 scope, it should be OK for a Philco Predicta!
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