#16
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Sometimes H out tube current test points are there but not indicated on the schematic.
If not present I like to add one as well as protection by placing an above chassis fuse holder in series with the H out cathode...The right fuse will protect it, and I can pull the fuse and replace it with a current meter to check current whenever I feel like it without need to pull the chassis to check.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#17
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Right that's a good point, its often already been started cold full power. Sometimes you will find one with a badly disintegrated plug that clearly not been used in years.
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#18
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I don't have a GC/Walsco catalog that shows the one for the 6JS6/6KD6, but they probably made one.
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#19
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ok now I remember, the HV is controlled by a horz bias pot which directly bias's the Horz out. So you adj the HV to about 25kv with that pot. The regulation takes place from feedback from the fly. The problem I ran into was the excessive heat (to the point of severe wax melting and even smoke) so adj the bias down to get the heat down resulted in under scanning of the crt. That was resolved with a HV disc cap across the yoke horz windings. Pretty mickey mouse fix that maybe was not the right thing to do. Perhaps it needed a new fly.. whatever just don't leave the set alone (good idea for any 50 year old color tube set). I think I adj to about 23kv
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#20
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Ill make sure to copy these notes into my "Philco Color TV service manual" a Tab book by Robert L Goodman. I have a 19" chassis version of this set and its fly runs hot. Few color TVs had a tuning meter or tuning eye tube. The OP's model might have the tuning eye tube. Only GE had a tuning device on their 1967-68 color sets and Westinghouse had that on-screen bar graphic on that one-shot chassis before they quit making Tvs. otherwise, I never saw visual tuning devices on an RCA, Zenith, Mag etc
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"When resistors increase in value, they're worthless" -Dave G Last edited by DavGoodlin; 10-03-2016 at 12:03 PM. Reason: add sylvania note |
Audiokarma |
#21
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This little terminal board with jumper seems like it may very well be a test point. Seems I will add a fuse in place of jumper if so.
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#22
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Probably is the jumper (some continuity tests/circuit tracing should tell you for sure)...The picture is blurry enough that bigfoot ought to be in it.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#23
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Quote:
I noted tonight on first fire up there is indeed an eye tube. No heating of filters, swear I hear horz sweep running yet no high voltage. The 6KD6 and most of the other tubes are Philco brand and look tired, I happen to have saved a couple NOS I came across for no other reason than they are pricey The radio works, and phono cartridge but no motor action. But the whole combo looks remarkably unmolested, although as yet the TV chassis is filthy. SAMS is coming, today I got a Goodman Philco service manual from 1970. John H. |
#24
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Nice find, John!!! My personal opinion, in those days, is that Philco sets produced THE most perfect flesh tones, hands down, of ANY set out there...!!! I lusted after one as a kid, but it just wasn't in the cards... one day...
Jim |
#25
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These use some 6BL8s instead of all 6GH8s, though there is lots of both in there. The "SS" on the front refers to the tuner and IF strip only, mine had good reception before DT but it hates signal from the set-top box. Worked on one of these wayyy back in HS VoTech and it did look good when we sent it on to a needy family IIRC. These were also loss leader sets for like $299, yes? Can you get a neon lamp to light holding it near the 6KD6 cap? Watch for a shorted 3AW2 also, pull the cap then look for arcs. Hope its not the Fly. Think I have a leftover diagram for a replacement fly
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"When resistors increase in value, they're worthless" -Dave G Last edited by DavGoodlin; 10-06-2016 at 12:22 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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The Philco "Butterfly" & "Face Test" ads:
-Steve D.
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Please visit my CT-100, CTC-5, vintage color tv site: http://www.wtv-zone.com/Stevetek/ |
#27
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Quote:
The horz. output section seems to be intact but fly "tire" is open. But there's no horz. output voltage either so without a high voltage fuse what's also blown up I wonder? Last edited by Hagstar; 10-06-2016 at 07:33 PM. |
#28
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A good place to start is by measuring base voltages on the H output tube. If the osc. is dead or malfunctioning(manifested in grid voltage), the screen bias network is damaged, or the cathode ground wire is open, then the output tube will not drive the fly properly. I'd change the HV rect and try to get the H out tube workin right. HV has a funny way of re-welding closed or bypassing small opens, and you might get lucky.
I'd be more concerned if it failed a ring test (granted you need the HV winding to ring it IIRC), or windings other than the HV were open.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#29
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Quote:
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#30
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Quote:
John H. |
Audiokarma |
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