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#1
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I am not sure what you mean by "Boost" but I checked the resistors out when I had the socket apart, all good there. Instant on is working. I attempted to re-do my purity and I think that helped a bit. I re-seated all of the Semis. The 221-46 Semi on the Chroma Duramodule had two legs fall apart. Thankfully I had a NOS one from another Duramodule and that did the trick. The CRT is OEM and an AG125VB0P22 (if I read the faded label right) with a date code of 4-13 punched out. Early on I complained of faint letterbox burn in. It never came across in the pictures, but it is certainly there. It wouldn't surprise me that this is a high mileage set. The red gun certainly seems weaker/more orange in comparison to blue and green when turning each color down. Below are my best shots so far. I'm going to order some convergence strips for the left side. But other than that this may be where the set sits for awhile as I am bit burnt on it. Is it feasible to source an Chromacolor tube for this unit? I have heard of people who hoard them. Last edited by ThePlague; 04-30-2023 at 06:03 PM. |
#2
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I'm 95% I am dealing with a weak CRT. Hopefully I can find someone with a tester near Denver area.
Would replacing the HV tripler help at all? If that HV divider was destroyed its a possibility the tripler took some damage. I am not sure what the symptoms of too low of HV would be though. |
#3
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In the earlier picture with crosshatch and circles, the height is way too big. If this is still true, it will affect convergence. Make sure the height is correct before proceeding.
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#4
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Hello all, been awhile!
I've got a good Sylvania 25VAQP22 from ETF sitting in the garage ready for an install. I will begin chassis and picture tube removal in the near future. I will be taking my time and attempting to restore the cabinet at this time as well. I've located the disassembly instructions in the service manual and it looks more or less straightforward. Does anyone have any tips/tricks/gotchas when doing this kind of work? And with this 25DC56 chassis, are there any items I should touch while the chassis is out of the console? I plan on installing a new voltage tripler given how destroyed the divider was. |
#5
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Lift out by sides NOT neck. To have grab room put a box a little smaller under the face of CRT. The cabinet will drop away. Move to a table & transfer parts. Install. A helper is good, he can lower the cabinet slowly & hold it up to get the MTG screws started. Have fun Zeno |
Audiokarma |
#6
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One other thing. Xcelite used to make an extra long 1/4 inch
magnetic nut driver. I would guess its 25" - 30" long. If you can find one its a must for some sets. Also comes in phillips & #10. I will see if I can find mine & post the model ## for the group. Zeno |
#7
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Take lots & lots of pics of everything before, and during taking it apart. |
#8
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Model for driver is Excelite LL-8-M- 1/4
Overall 21" long. Its needed for 19" Zenith hybrids. CRT screws & tuner screws very hard without it. I have two of them. Cant make up my mind weather to leave each son one or get buried with one & let them fight over the other ! They are on E-bay sometimes. Zeno LFOD ! |
#9
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While I was looking around, I figured I should probably get some proper tools. I picked up an B&K HV-40 probe as well. I am currently looking at NTSC Pattern Generators and I was wondering if you had any recommendations? I am between the B&K 1246 and the Leader LCG-396. I am leaning towards the Leader for the color bar ability, but thought I would ask around before committing. |
#10
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Look at the Sencore VA48 & VA62 also. We ran them with good
luck. They will do almost everything. Be sure it has BOTH manuals ! Zeno |
Audiokarma |
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