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First thing is change the caps ONE AT A TIME ! Then recheck the
set & see if anything changed. 1) those NOS cans are OLD ! By the 70's they packaged them in just plastic, not boxes. Since the set is running you may want to do them last in this case. 2) it may be a subbed cap & there is another one hung in under there somewhere. 3) most Zeniths twisted 2 of the lugs & soldered the other 2 so breaking off the twisted ones it will come out easy. You may need a very hot iron such as the old classic Weller gun. 4) The CRT wasnt grounding good. Someone moused it to get by. The GND is made either with a set of finger or a coil spring on the bottom. Some use a very long, small spring across the DAG. If the DAG is chipping off it can be replaced. Symptom are diagonal dots in pix, bad sync, sometimes hissing, sparkles & ozone smell. Can also radiate & bother other TV's radios etc. 5) not sure what you mean here. Safety ! The most dangerous place is where the AC comes in. I never heard of a tech dying from a TV HV shock. I got them once a week for 40 yrs. The filter cans in most sets will bleed off fast. The HV will stay charged a LONG time with a tube rectifier. Avoid the base of the HV rect tube & anode lead. If you discharge it it can build back up to a lower level so discharge several times over a few minutes. BTW Put up a few under chassis & chassis pixs & chassis ## 73 Zeno LFOD ! |
#2
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#3
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Another way is using a vacuum cleaner and a soft brush (paint brush). Don't suck the Dag off the CRT. A limited amount of window cleaner can be used but don't go near the tube numbers. The tube numbers can sometimes come off if you touch them. It would be better if you worked on some radios first to get the hang of things. |
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It's funny you mention that, I did just that! A lot of rust came off, chassis is now looking good.
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#5
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I've discovered paper caps are pretty easy and straight forward - when there is enough room to work! Some of these caps have no lead length and are behind several layers of resistors and other parts. I guess the engineers didn't intend for anyone to be recapping 50 years in the future. I also have several books from the 60's and 70's and capacitors are never mentioned. I guess this is a very modern thing we have to do.
Thanks for everyones help. I will have about another 6 questions soon in case anyone else will want to answer and help out. Cannot wait to get done and turn on the TV and see if it works, lol. |
Audiokarma |
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I'm finding that out now. I will have to pick up something more heavy duty for desoldering. For the normal soldering of the paper caps will a 30 watt soldering iron from Harbor Freight work? I seem to remember reading somewhere 40watt is the normal minimum.
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#7
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30-40 W will do for most things. Things soldered to the chassis may take more, maybe 60W, but you don't have to remove the metal cased caps anyway most of the time. Also if a component lead is soldered to the chassis you can clip the lead near the old part and splice the new component lead to the old lead, no need for a big iron.
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