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  #16  
Old 08-10-2018, 09:00 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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The first thing I did was to add the 3 E-Caps to the board. A big thanks to Bob Andersen for this method.

For the 100uf 50V cap I'm using a 100uf 160V cap. There are 2 area that are already "cleared off" and tinned for the cap! All you have to do is drill 2 holes. I used a 1/32 PCB drill bit. The holes are drilled in the pad just south of the "Vert Lin" screening. Here is a picture of where I drilled:





For the 10uf 450V cap I used a 10uf 450V cap. There is a small square where the "+" lead will go and you have to drill a hole next to the square for the "-" lead. Again, I used a 1/32 drill bit. On the next one I do, I'll drill the hole a little be further away from the ground link. Once the ground "-" hole is drilled, I scrapped off the solder mask and cleaned an area around the hole of the copper trace so I could solder. This is the only time you need to do this. The last cap goes into existing holes. More on that next.





For the last cap a 20uf 350V cap I used a 22uf 450V cap. This cap will be placed into the lower 2 boxes labeled "WR1". See the above picture for their location. The left hand hole is ground so the "-" lead goes there. The "+" lead goes in the right hand hole. This hole is connected to the box just north of it. I then took a white/green wire I previously removed when I removed the old E-Cap and wrapped it around the stud labeled "Audio B+", then soldered it into the that last box. Thus connecting the "+" lead to the stud. As a matter of fact, when I was removing the wires from the old E-Cap, if I just left the white/green wire on that stud and cut it about a couple of inches long, I could have used it to jumper to the last "+" box.



An overall picture of the 3 E-Caps installed on the main board.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 08-10-2018 at 09:05 PM.
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  #17  
Old 08-11-2018, 04:45 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I recapped and changed out all the resistors too on the main board today. I left the high wattage wire wound resistors because the checked good and also looked good too.
I used 1W resistors to replace the 1/2W, 2W resistors to replace the 1W resistors, and 3W to replace 2W resistors.
I used a 1.6KV .0015uf Panasonic cap located in the upper right hand corner of the board.
I cut some standoffs from 1/2 dowel and used some #2 sheet metal screws to hold them to the board. Time well spent. I'll keep them in my jigs and fixtures drawer for later use.
All pretty routine with no problems. I re-flowed the solder joints on each tube socket and gave the board a very close inspection.
Before I did the recapping, I ohmed out each coil. All was good. I didn't bother with any of the ceramic disc capacitors either. I did check each slug on the transformers and coils to be sure they could be turned.



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  #18  
Old 08-11-2018, 04:55 PM
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One thing to be wary of is that the tube sockets on these tend to go open internally on random pins, and this gets worse the more times tubes go in and out.
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  #19  
Old 08-11-2018, 10:33 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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The main board is back into the chassis. Whew!
The tube sockets look like the better ones with the wider metal strip between the the terminal and pin socket. All checked good.

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  #20  
Old 08-11-2018, 10:43 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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A member on the other Forum asked if I checked the resistors that I replaced to see if they were out-of-tolerance.
On every restoration, I replace all the resistors 99% of the time. I log each resistor that was removed and each one that goes in. Just as a matter of record so to speak.

On this restoration with the IF and Main boards done, here is the tally.

IF Board:
14 resistors replaced.
6 were out-of-tolerance 43%
2 were close to being out-of-tolerance 14%
6 were within tolerance 43%

Main Board:
45 resistors were replaced.
31 were out-of-tolerance 69%
6 were close to being out-of-tolerance 13%
8 were within tolerance 18%
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  #21  
Old 08-13-2018, 09:07 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Now that the main board is done I moved on to the HV cage. I cleaned it, replaced the 2 resistors (1 was out-of-tolerance, the other was ok), ohmed out the flyback (all checked good), and sealed the flyback with black Super Corona Dope.







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  #22  
Old 08-13-2018, 09:13 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I then moved on to the input power plug. I replaced the 470K out-of-tolerance resistor, replaced the film cap with a .022uf X2 safety cap, and added a fuse holder.

Then I cleaned and lubed all the pots and cleaned the tube sockets.

This pretty much wraps up the chassis work.



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  #23  
Old 08-14-2018, 10:19 PM
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irext irext is offline
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Watching your work is inspiring. Can't wait to see it fired up.
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  #24  
Old 08-15-2018, 06:52 AM
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AlanInSitges AlanInSitges is offline
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Beautiful job, Crist! Would you ever consider making/selling those couplates for those of us who don't have a chance in hell of doing something that intricate and involved?
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  #25  
Old 08-15-2018, 07:48 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanInSitges View Post
Beautiful job, Crist! Would you ever consider making/selling those couplates for those of us who don't have a chance in hell of doing something that intricate and involved?
Yeah, I would. Stay tuned.
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  #26  
Old 08-15-2018, 10:17 AM
madlabs madlabs is offline
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Even just the boards and BOM would be great or boards and components.
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  #27  
Old 08-15-2018, 10:20 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madlabs View Post
Even just the boards and BOM would be great or boards and components.
Right.
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  #28  
Old 08-15-2018, 12:28 PM
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I might be interested in a set. I left the original couplates in mine and the vert sync is rather weak. Barely locks in and won't hold for more than a few seconds at a time...If I decide to press it into service I'm going to have to address that.
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  #29  
Old 08-15-2018, 03:00 PM
RDusel RDusel is offline
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Definitely interested in a set (actually 3!)
Thanks!
Rob
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  #30  
Old 08-15-2018, 03:13 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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OK guys. Give me a few days to get it all together and then I'll let everyone know.
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