Philco 38-12 radio

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by jr_tech

Schematic here:

https://www.google.com/search?q=phil...O2nPfkz-m59jM:

I don't see any capacitor blocks... looks pretty simple.

jr

It looks like the power line filter is one of Philco's bakelite blocks.

[Zsuttle]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

It looks like the power line filter is one of Philco's bakelite blocks.

Yeah, that's the one I was referring to, however, I've had experience with Philco substituting items sometimes. I've found capacitor blocks where they shouldn't have been, and tubular caps the same. Could have been factory, or someone replacing with OEM parts, either way they were genuine philco stuff. Either way, they matched the schematic, though not the under chassis diagram provided.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Zsuttle

Yeah, that's the one I was referring to, however, I've had experience with Philco substituting items sometimes. I've found capacitor blocks where they shouldn't have been, and tubular caps the same. Could have been factory, or someone replacing with OEM parts, either way they were genuine philco stuff. Either way, they matched the schematic, though not the under chassis diagram provided.

ARF has a pretty good page under their resto section that translates the part numbers into cap values for the blocks (sadly it does a poor job for the ones that contain resistors and caps)....I just chip the tar out with a couple different sized screwdrivers and hide the new caps inside the block....Since the blocks act as terminal strips it is cheaper, simpler, and better looking to restuff them rather than replace with new terminal strips.

[timmy]

While this radio is really simple the schematic is not so clear as to the values of the resistors since some number 3s look like 5s because of ink bleed on the paper so I guess the best way is to try to compair the value of the resistor with what it shows on paper with adding more for drift.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by timmy

While this radio is really simple the schematic is not so clear as to the values of the resistors since some number 3s look like 5s because of ink bleed on the paper so I guess the best way is to try to compair the value of the resistor with what it shows on paper with adding more for drift.

There is very little problem reading the resistor values on the N/A Schematic, plus every part is listed by number on the parts list.
Philco is the one that started using the odd-at-the-time values of resistors, ie 47K instead of 50K, 2.2 K instead of 2K or 2.5K etc.
They claimed that some color codes were hard distinguish under the then-new Mercury Vapor lighting, being used in their plant.

[timmy]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

There is very little problem reading the resistor values on the N/A Schematic, plus every part is listed by number on the parts list.
Philco is the one that started using the odd-at-the-time values of resistors, ie 47K instead of 50K, 2.2 K instead of 2K or 2.5K etc.
They claimed that some color codes were hard distinguish under the then-new Mercury Vapor lighting, being used in their plant.

I have the NA schematic , even looking at it on line seemed Alittle bit of bleeding on the type. Well I don't have vapor lighting here, lol,lol

[timmy]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

There is very little problem reading the resistor values on the N/A Schematic, plus every part is listed by number on the parts list.
Philco is the one that started using the odd-at-the-time values of resistors, ie 47K instead of 50K, 2.2 K instead of 2K or 2.5K etc.
They claimed that some color codes were hard distinguish under the then-new Mercury Vapor lighting, being used in their plant.

Well I took out the 84 and the other 4 tubes do light. So now I'm off to check resistors and recap.