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#2
05-05-2005, 03:13 PM
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This is the kind of great information you find in this forum! I always knew you could remagnetize weak magnets this way, but exactly how to go about it for this application, well that's quite another thing. Sharing the specifics of a successful setup for a particular application with everyone this way helps document a body of knowledge that the "old timers" probably knew and some of which was passed down to us "kids" either in person or by way of old magazine articles. But a lot of it has been forgotten. And some of the tricks we have to resort to in order to deal with problems no one could have imagined might surface some fifty years after these machines were made we have to make up ouselves. Yay, AudioKarma and yay to everyone who shares their expertise and tricks of the trade here. I, for one, appreciate it, big time.
So how did you eventually keep the fuse from blowing to get the full 1/2 second field each time? --Dave 
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#4
05-05-2005, 05:35 PM
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I've heard of using a large capacitor to provide a pulse of sufficient amperage to generate a brief, yet hefty magnetic field. This setup limits the potential for fire or other serious damage. I think it's the intensity of the field rather than the duration, that does the trick. Some of the new "stiffening" capacitors I see for use in car audio installations have amazing ratings, up to several farads each. I bet they might make a fine remagnetizer-thingamajig, although they might provide enough current to set your wire on fire too!
--Dave
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#5
05-05-2005, 04:29 PM
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This is so cool, to be able to come up with solutions to problems that have either been forgotten or for situations that never existed prior to this late date! Am glad you got this straightened out, thanks for sharing it with us!
As has been said, tricks like this have sadly been lost with the passing of old timers....and this is the sort of thing that may never have been in any repair manual.....real world experience and oral history were the traditional methods of passing this on, but with changing technologies a lot of this stuff was no longer relevant and disappeared. Now thanks to the internet and this forum in particular we have a chance of finding this info again! Anthony Last edited by heathkit tv; 05-14-2005 at 01:02 PM.
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#6
05-05-2005, 04:47 PM
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I got a trick I'll bet none of you have used..
Testing for vertical on a (solid state ) tv chassis, using a SPEAKER!!! Simple to do. just get an 8 or more ohm speaker, and place it on the vertical lines, where the yoke would go... you will get a loud, modulated hum, if the vertical ckt. is working right. NOW-- this will NOT tell if it is right on frequency, but it will work, to find out if you have vertical in the first place-- like in a "no vertical" situation, or where you only have the chassis. DO NOT use this trick, with the horizontal.. WAY too much voltage there, and probably in tube sets, in the vertical ckt, too!!
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#7
05-05-2005, 05:22 PM
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Another trick is to inject 60 hz ac from the filament supply through a .047 or so cap into the vertical amp/oscillator on tube sets to check out a "no vertical" condition...the speaker trick sounds interesting. You maybe could use it on tube sets as the vert output transformer is like an audio output trans. but sometimes it's an auto transformer and there is high DC voltage at the yoke leads.
That's great that you got those magnets remagnatized Andy...you maybe could also use something like an auto headlamp or 2 or something like that that draws a lot of current in series with the coils to limit the current but still allow a high amount to flow. Thank goodness for the world wide web, I have learned so many valuable troubleshooting tips from it.
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