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  #16  
Old 08-07-2016, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dreamsbeard View Post
Looking good indeed! What did you use to refinish the cabinet?
What I did, was sand it with 100, then 220, and finish with Danish oil. It looked awful, like a car with a $300 paint job.

I turned it over to my dad, He used a scraper to flatten out the grain, then used a bunch of tricks to get it really smooth, followed by oil for color and then polished beeswax. It looks like furniture again. Don't quote me on the process, but I am really happy with the result. I can get specifics if you like, the finish really suits the style of furniture. I want this one to be living room quality.

I'm more an electronics guy than a furniture guy. My big victory so far is its my first cataract removal.

Last edited by maxhifi; 08-08-2016 at 12:12 AM.
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  #17  
Old 08-07-2016, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
That set looks very good. Great job refinishing it. I just got the exact set today at an estate sale. I just used Gojo on mine, and I'm satisfied with it.
Hopefully we can learn from each other. I'm going for a total re-build, I want it to work perfect. I like how this set has tons of adjustments, I like to be able to dial things in really precisely. I hope the color is accurate once it's all set up. For example my ctc 38 has no centering pots, and this tv does.
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  #18  
Old 08-08-2016, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by maxhifi View Post
Some progress.... Lots of screwing around to get plastic bezel to sit tight to CRT, looks good now. Improved since attached photo.
This is like my dream vintage TV console style with the cool little peg legs. Looks amazing!!!
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  #19  
Old 08-08-2016, 11:08 AM
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I find it interesting that these have to separate controls for tint. They have one wheel for tint, and a slider for hue.
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  #20  
Old 08-08-2016, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
I find it interesting that these have to separate controls for tint. They have one wheel for tint, and a slider for hue.
Dont remember on Motos but Admirals had a control that changed
the grey scale for a "warm" or "cool" picture. Always center it
before grey scaling.
73 Zeno
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  #21  
Old 08-08-2016, 02:52 PM
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Your father sure has a touch with wood. Wish I did !!
This will be a show piece when done.

73 Zeno
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  #22  
Old 08-11-2016, 12:33 AM
Dude111 Dude111 is offline
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Good job buddy,your giving her the respect she deserves

Please give her a good wipe for me,give her a pat;tell her I said hello!!
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  #23  
Old 08-13-2016, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxhifi View Post
What I did, was sand it with 100, then 220, and finish with Danish oil. It looked awful, like a car with a $300 paint job.

I turned it over to my dad, He used a scraper to flatten out the grain, then used a bunch of tricks to get it really smooth, followed by oil for color and then polished beeswax. It looks like furniture again. Don't quote me on the process, but I am really happy with the result. I can get specifics if you like, the finish really suits the style of furniture. I want this one to be living room quality.

I'm more an electronics guy than a furniture guy. My big victory so far is its my first cataract removal.
Of course I would like the specifics! :P And I'm sure a lot of VKers would be interested in that also. Well all came across some less than stellar looking cabinets that would need a good refinishing.

I would say that cataract removal is very ballsy and especially if you did it with the heat gun...
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2016, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamsbeard View Post
Of course I would like the specifics! :P And I'm sure a lot of VKers would be interested in that also. Well all came across some less than stellar looking cabinets that would need a good refinishing.

I would say that cataract removal is very ballsy and especially if you did it with the heat gun...
I will ask my dad next time I see him

Cataract procedure was as follows:

Remove yoke, convergence coils, purity rings (in opposite order!)

Remove CRT, (from front on a Moto) place face down on old sleeping bag then remove x-Ray shield, degaussing coil, mounting hardware.

Everything removed was photographed before removal so the orientation not lost. Dirt not cleaned off neck of tube to allow easy repositioning of various parts.

Worm gear on band photographed so that I knew how tight to make it after process.

Next step put a bunch of rocks in the bottom of a large garbage can, and put bare tube into it facing up. Wrap tube in black plastic garbage bags, and let sit in the sun for several hours.

Once it got good and hot I removed tape from around the edge and I used the "guitar string" method to slice it off. Basically just attached a guitar string to two 6" dowels (sticks our clematis came with cut up) used as handles. Slice off the safety glass like as if it's a cheese knife. This part was surprisingly easy.

Then clean off the old silicone (a nasty mess, I used acetone alcohol, water, windex, fingernails, plastic scrapers and plenty of elbow grease)

After everything is clean I affixed the safety glass with four pieces of double sided tape, siliconed around the edge, and then when that was dry taped it with book binding tape.

After than assembly was reverse of disassembly (got that phrase from Haynes

Note: to prove I am not bold

I did this on days ranging from 25-30 degrees Celcius (Hot!), and wore steel toe boots, and Arctic arc flash rated coveralls and winter jacket zipped up to my chin to cover my neck (heaviest stuff I own, from working in a diamond mine) along with a face shield and safety glasses and heavy leather gloves

After each major step I took a break and let it sit for a while to ensure its stable

Would definitely do this again.

Note guitar string method works only for green type cateract, the heat gun is for RCA tubes.

Thanks to all past and present members here for getting this down to a science before I attempted it

Last edited by maxhifi; 08-13-2016 at 11:13 AM.
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2016, 10:48 PM
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The Zenith method is pretty tame and reliable. I've done it perfectly all three times attempted...In contrast 2 of three RCA operations ended in destruction of the CRT for me (the most recent was last weekend ). The middle one a few years ago I got lucky and only ruined the safety glass and put a small nick on the face of the CRT chipping the rest of the glass off. I think I'm at the point where if I did another RCA I could be successful with it....I get better every time, and the last one would have been the best yet had the screen not cracked at the cusp of getting the last of the glass free.
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  #26  
Old 08-21-2016, 07:44 PM
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About half done the recap... Plastic case electrolytics are about half bad, some
Open, some short, some way low value. film caps all good both value and leakage wise on borrowed sprague telohmike. Will leave film caps alone for now as all I have tested are in tolerance and behave as new caps on leakage test.

Took apart front panel and cleaned it up, this tv is great!

Photo is convergence/vertical board, with bad caps beside it

Put new grease under horizontal outputs, will do same with vertical and audio out
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  #27  
Old 08-28-2016, 09:55 PM
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Got her all back together today.

Powered up and got a nice screen filling raster. Picture is very sharp but couple issues, red blooms like crazy when colour is turned up, and colours are all wrong. Convergence is also off. Will do a set up and the fix colour problems.

Am having problems with the first step.. Static centre convergence. . Use the blue lateral magnet to adjust blue and the disk magnets to adjust red and green. Only what disc magnets? All I see are the purity rings.
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  #28  
Old 08-28-2016, 09:56 PM
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Here's the front view
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  #29  
Old 08-28-2016, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxhifi View Post
Got her all back together today.

Powered up and got a nice screen filling raster. Picture is very sharp but couple issues, red blooms like crazy when colour is turned up, and colours are all wrong. Convergence is also off. Will do a set up and the fix colour problems.

Am having problems with the first step.. Static centre convergence. . Use the blue lateral magnet to adjust blue and the disk magnets to adjust red and green. Only what disc magnets? All I see are the purity rings.
You know what the convergence clover looks like right? The disk magnets are near the tip of the petals...They are like a thick ferrite penny laying down on the petal tips....Or think of them like the knobs on 60's transistor radios where only the rim protrudes from the cabinet.
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  #30  
Old 08-28-2016, 10:50 PM
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Thank you! So adjust by rotating? I took a close up pic of the ones on my set. I've not seen this style before, on my other TVs they were more obvious.

Update: figured it out. Convergence procedure went well as did grey scale. Purity was difficult but found a decent compromise.

Set makes a great monochrome picture, but colour is kind of weird, tends to smear across the screen when there's a block of one colour, almost like a shadow. Picture a bit jumpy after convergence procedure as if one of the convergence pots was dirty.
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Last edited by maxhifi; 08-29-2016 at 01:33 AM.
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