Rca ctc-5

[DaveWM]

I am tempted to pull the B+ fuse and see how the PT checks out...

[mstaton]

I did that mod to my 5 and made a huge difference. Before the mod, when the contrast was turned up, the HV would drop out and the picture would dim and blur. Link:http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ontrastMod.jpg

[ChrisW6ATV]

I see this chassis still has its HV box cover. Very nice! It seems that nine out of ten CTC-5s have no cover.

[DaveWM]

that is the circuit, thanks for the link

[mstaton]

I must be lucky, mine has all its covers.

[DaveWM]

been no progress due to hand surgery, but I did manage a little bit of work just before.

1st pic if two of the completed can caps.
2nd pic is just some of the cleaned up PCB's so I can see what I am doing
3rd pic has the bone saw used to cut off the cans right at the shoulder and the pin vise used to drill the holes from the bottom side up. Drilling from the bottom lets me get the idea spot for the hole. One hole right by the pos terminal and then the other hole right by the soldered twist lug. Doing caps like this lets me use the cheaper radial lead caps and leaves the lead dress undisturbed. You just need to clean well so the solder will flow.

[snelson903]

thoughs are pretty cool looking ,make good fit in a restuffed can.

[DaveWM]

Those are the new ones that Mouser has, yes the fit very well, are 105c IIRC they are 12mm wide, you can get a 4 cap can done no problem.

The main thing is how fast you can do a can , those 2 can caps take 10min tops from start to finish, figure about 5min tops per cap. Its much faster than my old way of removing the old cap, and prob as fast as doing under the chassis installation if you take into account good wiring practices (like term strips, no flying lead stuff). I would say its faster than if you had the correct twist lock can since you do not have to unsolder anything.

[DaveWM]

did the remaining two filter cans, very easy method again. going to lay off it for a while now, then will get on the paper caps. There are quite a few that are point to point (the chorma section is NOT on a pcb) On those I am prob just going to go pig tail method. The tube sockets are not the best quality and I don't want to goof them up trying to unsolder. The others on the bottom have some coils involved so again pig tail. I know some purest think this is sloppy work, but I think its less invasive, and since I have no way of determining the operating status, I dont want to create a problem.

[Charlie]

I'm diggin those 82@450 lytics... they are pretty skinny compared to the ones i usually get... so it looks like they fit nicely in the cans. Where did you get them?

[Charlie]

I typically do the pigtail method as well. If I had a CT100 or a 16CK1, I would take the extra time to completely desolder the original part. I don't feel like I do a very good job desoldering... especially when many parts are soldered to one point... so the pigtail just seems more practical for me on common sets. On occasion, I will unsolder the original part if there's plenty of room to work and little chance of me screwing something up.

[DaveWM]

progress

[DaveWM]

I typically always pig tail to coils, and will take the time to remove if its to a term strip as long as it does not have a bunch of other stuff on it. I also generally always pig tail to mini tube sockets. I large tube socket has an easy to get at term with out a bunch of stuff I will generally try to not pig tail, but if its at all hard to get at I will pig tail. I comes down to ease and fragile.

[DaveWM]

To keep is simple I just ordered a bunch of 1.6kv and 1kv for .047 and .01's. there were a lot of them, and the larger HV caps fit better to the orig part locations.

[DaveWM]

I found this somewhat helpful. I got the orig doc from ETF, the cut and pasted into excel. the cap numbers are cross ref to the schematic. I print it out and used a marker to clearly ID the caps on the board layout. Just a double check to make sure I don't goof anything.