Rca ctc-5h

[Tony V]

What i did on one of mine was remove the mask to get at the original mounting bolts and replaced them with longer ones. I then reused the plastic housing which slid back in place as it is only slid out about an inch and a half from the original crt position hence the longer bolts. Of course i had to take a hole saw to the side of the housing so i could hook up the anode lead. The outer magnets and hardware were removed from the mask. The good thing about this route is everything can be put back original if a good 21axp22 is found or if the old one can be rebuilt. The chassis had to be slid back an inch because two tubes were right up against the housing but this might not be an issue depending on what cabinet you have.

[EdKozk2]

Thanks for all the replies,
Thanks for posting those pictures Steve D.
I like the approach you took Tony V.
Tom, I not sure the Zenith brackets will work with the lack of space, but I'll check.
Old TV Nut I read your old thread from a few years ago, when you put a 21axp22 back into your ctc5 .
From reading everyone's suggestions, it looks like the purity magnet assembly should be removed that surrounded the old, first.
Thanks for all the help,
Ed

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by EdKozk2

Thanks for all the replies,
...
From reading everyone's suggestions, it looks like the purity magnet assembly should be removed that surrounded the old, first.
...
Ed

Right - the edge magnets were totally unnecessary with the glass tube, and actually may be mechanically in the way and magnetically may make things worse.

[EdKozk2]

Originally Posted by Tony V

What i did on one of mine was remove the mask to get at the original mounting bolts and replaced them with longer ones. I then reused the plastic housing which slid back in place as it is only slid out about an inch and a half from the original crt position hence the longer bolts. Of course i had to take a hole saw to the side of the housing so i could hook up the anode lead. The outer magnets and hardware were removed from the mask. The good thing about this route is everything can be put back original if a good 21axp22 is found or if the old one can be rebuilt. The chassis had to be slid back an inch because two tubes were right up against the housing but this might not be an issue depending on what cabinet you have.

I ended up trying Tony 's approach to mounting a 21FJP22a crt in the CTC5.
Four longer bolts and cutting a hole for the HV lead.
I encountered two issues and was wondering if Tony had the same issues? One is that the deflection yoke is now 1.5 to 2 inches further back from where it used to be positioned. Tony do you remember if you made any changes to reset the deflection yoke?
The other is arcing that looks like lightning across the sky between the inner old plastic cover and the dag coated crt. In my case I have grounded inside and outside of the plastic cover. I also grounded the crt's dag. The charge builds up, discharges then does it again. How large is the diameter of the hole you drilled for the HV anode lead? If I enlarge the hole I already have , I'll start cutting into the plastic cover's ribbing.
A few pictures of the first tests tonight. I think all three color guns are working. When I tested this crt a few months ago the green tested the weakest.
If anyone has encountered the same issues, please feel free to chime in.
Thank ,
Ed

[ohohyodafarted]

I would try un-grounding the dag on the crt and let the grounded dag on the outside of the plastic shroud act as the HV smoothing capacitor.

[EdKozk2]

Originally Posted by ohohyodafarted

I would try un-grounding the dag on the crt and let the grounded dag on the outside of the plastic shroud act as the HV smoothing capacitor.

Thanks Bob, your suggestion worked. A big improvement.
Ed

[EdKozk2]

I ended up removing the inner 1/2 inch circular deflection coil stop. Had to cut it flush to the inside surface. This allowed enough space for the deflection coil to slide through and seat all the way against the crt neck. I drilled a hole 3-7/8 inches inward on each side from the covers' rear. The holes were kept along the same horizontal plan as the existing slots for yoke adjustment. I cut some 1/4 inch thick plastic spacers to fill the gap between inside housing and deflection coil clamp bracket. The trickiest part was placing a washer and nut on the inside end of each adjusting screw. I didn't want to drop them in the yoke or crt housing.
Two of the pictures below show the longer bolts I installed to extend the plastic housing rearward about 2 inches. I used 1/4 inch thick plastic sleeves as spacers over the four 1/4-20 hex head bolts. The upper two bolts are 4 1/2 inches long and the lower two are 4 inches long. The shorter bottom are to leave more clearance for the chassis.
These modifications made it possible to get the convergence coil assembly in the correct location on the crt neck.
I have yet to deal with purity and degaussing the screen, it's really bad. I also have to get the chroma circuits going yet. There seems to be no color, I'll try a new crystal before I get carried away.
Ed

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by EdKozk2

...I have yet to deal with purity and degaussing the screen, it's really bad...
Ed

If you were really able to get the yoke flush up against the bell, it only needs to be pulled back a little to fix the purity. Great work so far. Onward!

[Steve D.]

Ed, Quite a creative solution. If I understand your posted photo below, I assume you cut off the heads of the bolts screwed into the rear of the mask. Or did you find double ended threaded screws? Nice job.

-Steve D.

[UberVacTuber]

Originally Posted by EdKozk2

The other is arcing that looks like lightning across the sky between the inner old plastic cover and the dag coated crt. In my case I have grounded inside and outside of the plastic cover. I also grounded the crt's dag. The charge builds up, discharges then does it again.

This is the section of the post I am referring to. It was mentioned to unground the CRT dag and let the boot "act as the HV smoothing capacitor". This was reported to correct the issue, but it seemed backwards, hence why I asked about it.

[EdKozk2]

Originally Posted by Tony V

The chassis had to be slid back an inch because two tubes were right up against the housing but this might not be an issue depending on what cabinet you have.

I had the same issue with two tubes hitting the plastic crt housing. One tube only required cutting down the height of the tube metal tube shield. With the other tube I made a right angle extension socket.I used some 3/64 inch brass tubing bent at 90 degrees to support the socket. The chassis now slides into the cabinet where the chassis bolts line up. It's a very tight fit.
Ed

[EdKozk2]

A few pictures after I adjusted the chroma board slugs to try and duplicate NTSB color bars. I found the 3.58 MHz oscillator to be out of tune, which was causing barber poling. I was able to adjust the convergence and purity a little better following the procedure in Riders' for RCA 22-149 through 22-169.
Ed