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Found this on the side of I-840 today, Magnavox console tv.
Hi all! on the way home i saw this sitting on the side of the interstate. It doesn't look dropped or scarred up. It is a Magnavox 25C549 chassis, made in Greeneville TN, USA Jan of 1986. i powered it up but doesn't come on, i hear a faint buzzing sound from the chassis, anyone have a schematic for this set?
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:39 PM. |
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We had a considerable amount of snow, a lot of it melted in the unseasonable warm weather, but now we're paying for it. Zero or colder, with sub-zero wind chills. The snow is just an inconvienience, but that extreme cold.
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I agree 100% ! We need a few days below freezing to kill the mosquito eggs and other pesky bugs, but please nothing near, at or below zero.....
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
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The cold REALLY stinks! The heater in that GMC ain't worth a damn under 20 degrees...It barely can get the car above freezing once it hits zero...engine runs real cold too. If I had better winter clothes I'd try taping card board over the grille to see if impeding cooling helps. Saw something unusual on the way to work today...I guess it would be called a 'snowbow' since it is WAY too cold for rain...Did not know such a thing could form in weather this cold.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
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jr |
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Or missing.....had that on a Nissan Truck I troubleshot for a friend - A/C use would overheat the engine, so the dealership removed the thermostat. Come cold weather, he froze his hiney. Installed an OEM and no more problems, and gas mileage went up considerably......
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
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My old volvo had that problem, the thermostat failed in the open position. worked great in the summer froze till i figured it out. oh i'm thinking the H.O.T transistor has failed I tested it with my Leader in circuit tester and and it said dead. I let the power stay on for about 30 seconds and the heat sink is warm. In findem keepem's post with the helpfull hints it said the trans is a 2sd1398(8)?
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Thanks for the tip! I'll have to check into that. Symptoms match what I've read. Replacement thermostats claim 192 degrees F is the factory open point, if the temp gauge is accurate I'm not making 150 F in 30 min of operation...IIRC the check engine code I have was traced to timing and cooling system...Time to find that sheet, and order a new thermostat.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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Indeed! ... I would have let it take the temperature of the room at least 3 days before turning on the television. At least, I would have dried the circuits with a hair dryer for an hour or two by going gently so as not to soften some pieces. |
Audiokarma |
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You sound like someone with a home humidification system! I wish I had one. Where I'm at this time of year there is just a small portable unit, and it can barely do anything...A cup of water with a napkin in it will dry in under a day.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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Yes at home temperature and humidity are controlled. But what I wanted to say is that if I find a TV out in the winter I will never turn on the TV right away because of the difference in temperature (cold outside and the temperature inside my apartment) . Because the risk of components leaping, is high. That's why I said earlier that I would wait at least 2 to 3 days before turning on a TV found on the street in winter ..It's absolutely necessary to let the circuits dry completely. Even the CRT should not be wet. If not, .... BOUM! . It happened to me once because I was too eager to see if the TV was working. Now I'm careful. |
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Nice catch! Unusual place for a console TV to get dumped, even more unusual that it's not beat up, or that it even survived.
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Somebody running low on gas must have decided to lighten their load. Finders keepers, losers weepers!
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I've got the service lit - most of it. I have the model specific data and the supplement with schematic, parts list, breakdown list and interchangeability data. I also have the Switchmode power Supply manual (theory, general operation, a must for the "bitch mode" supplies these have...) from NAP, all yours for postage. PM me your address, and I'll get it out to you.
In the meantime, do you have 130V across the diode (D404) on the yoke? Negative lead to the anode (hot ground...)That was always our starting point - D404 is a high-failure item in these chassis, and my earlier attachment provides a list of stuff to check as well - lots of bad solder jobs on the early runs of these chassis - the 25C55X series didn't seem to have the solder issues, just the earlier 25C53X and 25C54X stuff. January 1986....when the Challenger tragedy struck.....
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 01-06-2017 at 07:43 AM. |
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