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Old 03-14-2017, 02:08 PM
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dtvmcdonald dtvmcdonald is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_tv_nut View Post
Another thought is to float a VOM across the cathode and G1 so you can see any differential drift on a sensitive scale. (Just be careful to have it on an insulated surface and don't try to touch it while in operation!)
I've tried all your suggestions. But for this last one ...there is a problem.
That is, there are big blanking pulses on both cathode and grid. This means that the voltages measured on a voltmeter are not necessarily representative of
what they are during the active scan time.

I will retry this evening with the two blanking pulses disabled. And I will
look at the two pulses with a scope and see if they drift.
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Old 03-14-2017, 04:37 PM
Ralph S Ralph S is offline
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Add me to the list of working block camera owners!

I've had my CRV59 camera working for at least 15 years now and it seems to be about the same today as it was when rebuilt that long ago. I agree about it possibly needing the rear mosaic lamp. I've never had the picture fade out on me as you describe as the bias lamp(s) on this camera do work. (It's been a quite a while since I've opened the camera up so I've forgotten whether or not there's just one or two inside!)

I revamped the scans circuits to standard def sweep rates so I could use a regular broadcast monitor for viewing. No problems there. The camera power supply is solid state.
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