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  #1  
Old 05-13-2018, 01:14 AM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
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Success and failure: the tale of two coils

The luminance deficiency was the most obvious culprit. The original white peaking coil on the contrast control above chassis had opened...I took the longest, but the most educational approach to finding it: comparing video at various points between my CT-100 and 21CT55 on a scope...I could have saved myself a half hour by following my hunch and putting a DMM on it, but the scope was more fun.

That got me a monochrome picture with all the contrast and brightness I could ask for...Turning up the color got me horizontal chroma stripes. Best yet color was actually synching periodically.


This is the only pic I got. I had it making a great picture on a different source when it would occasionally sync. Then I tried to adjust L43 (RCA part 78891) the reactance coil to make the sync permanent. It was sticky but came loose...Unfortunately, it was not the slug that came loose but the coil form and with it the wires that connected it to the terminals. leaving me with the osc. way off sync but still working. Once I realized what happened I removed the coil and tried to free the slug. Sadly the cardboard form was too brittle, and also ~1/8" of the very long slug chipped off...I managed to grab a similar form and rewind the wire, but it will not oscillate with my repair...I'm kind of up a creek presently.

Only thing I can think of is a CT-100 parts chassis....Or there is a very slim chance that coil may have been used in a 15" Dumont color monitor carcass I acquired recently. The Dumont is missing CRT/deflection hardware, flyback, and other things, but it seems to be CT-100 based. The Dumont's HV cage (what is left of it) appears to be exactly the same as that in a CT-100 as do the purity and field neutralizer coil connectors...If I'm lucky it uses the same reactance coil too...But then again I would like to make the Dumont work again someday and hacking it up for parts does not sit well with me.

After brief success, I'm back to monochrome again.
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  #2  
Old 05-13-2018, 08:37 AM
dtvmcdonald's Avatar
dtvmcdonald dtvmcdonald is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,197
Well, I'm now crying! That price for a good 15GP22!

You'll eventually get the oscillator to oscillate again. Coils at 3.58 MHz
can be rewound, you;ll eventually succeed. There are parts chassis around.

That color bar picture looks exactly like the one I first got on my set. Good
luck getting the red and magenta balancing well with the other colors.
Beware of AGC setting and color level on the modulator.
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  #3  
Old 05-13-2018, 05:26 PM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Elkhorn, WI
Posts: 542
Hi Tom,
I was thinking of any easy way for you to fix or replace your broken L43 coil. You could use an old 4.5mc sound coil. You would have to add some more capacitance in the tank circuit. Increase the 5pf to get a center frequency of 3.58Mhz. If you have an inductance meter, maybe you can measure your broken coil if it is still intact.
Ed
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  #4  
Old 05-13-2018, 07:59 PM
Pete Deksnis's Avatar
Pete Deksnis Pete Deksnis is offline
15GP22 demo @ ETF 2007
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Big Rapids, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
This is the only pic I got. I had it making a great picture on a different source when it would occasionally sync. Then I tried to adjust L43 (RCA part 78891) the reactance coil to make the sync permanent. It was sticky but came loose...Unfortunately, it was not the slug that came loose but the coil form and with it the wires that connected it to the terminals. leaving me with the osc. way off sync but still working. Once I realized what happened I removed the coil and tried to free the slug. Sadly the cardboard form was too brittle, and also ~1/8" of the very long slug chipped off...I managed to grab a similar form and rewind the wire, but it will not oscillate with my repair...I'm kind of up a creek presently.

After brief success, I'm back to monochrome again.
Check L42 for continuity. An open L42 is often the cause of 'loose' chroma sync in a CTC2 chassis.

Pete
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