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#1
09-30-2014, 09:26 AM
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ctc197cd schematic
hi all, does anyone have a schematic for the ctc197cd or just ctc197 both should be the same. im looking for the specs on a diode near the flyback but didnt take the back off again to get the location number but ill know it if i seen a schematic. thanks
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#2
10-01-2014, 05:42 PM
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I have it on micrfische. Give me the part designaation and I'll give you the part number
Last edited by Gunslinger; 10-01-2014 at 06:05 PM.
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#3
10-02-2014, 01:14 PM
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Complete parts list for the CTC197CD attached. Text searchable, just search for the reference designation (CRXXXX).
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:38 PM.
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#5
10-02-2014, 07:47 PM
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the location of the diode i need on the board is cr14701 but i dont know the electrical specs i got a sub in it now it works but i dont know what the right one is. looks like a stock number for that diode is 241304.
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#6
10-02-2014, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
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#7
10-03-2014, 06:34 AM
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ok thanks
well i came up with this diode weather or not its true but i found that this diode is supposed to be a 200 volt 1 amp. problem is the sub diode i put in had a 400v 3amp 150ns rating but it left me with a intermittent dark line on the lower left screen. so i changed the diode to a 200v 3amp 35ns diode and the dark line is 95% gone but shows up very small from time to time. so if infact the right diode that goes in has to be a 200v 1amp thats ok but i am wondering what the recovery time is in, ns . the diode that had came out had blue lettering and i had researched it but never found a thing on it so there may be special characteristics to this diode even though its not marked with an X to indicate anything special. if memory serves when this diode first went bad i think i tried a 600v 1amp general purpose diode and it burned , maybe the recovery time was not consistent with what the set needs. Last edited by timmy; 10-03-2014 at 07:32 AM.
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#8
10-03-2014, 10:19 AM
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For two bucks, I'd go with the original. Thomson used some funky diodes, most are low forward drop, high speed, from either Sanken, Toshiba or Fagor. You could go through 20 replacements before you found one that would work, so we kept a small stock of original diodes on hand.
I checked my stock, I don't have anything that new, and I don't think my junk M134 chassis used that diode. Cheers,
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit!
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#10
10-03-2014, 12:11 PM
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No, I don't. Even with specs, you're gonna buy a replacement, right? Why not spring a couple of dollars for the original replacement, and not worry about specs. With RCA semiconductors (like Sony), originals are always the best way to go.
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit!
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Linear Mode
