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  #1  
Old 07-22-2018, 11:49 PM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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Samsung Celebrity Tv with an odd power issue

Hey all, a buddy of mine brought me a Samsung celebrity tv he would really like to have going. The problem with this set is that it powers up for only a couple seconds, then it shuts itself off. With a problem like this I am not too sure where to start looking.

Any help would be great!
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  #2  
Old 07-23-2018, 10:41 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Usually the power supply isnt regulating & triggering HV shut down ( HVSD )
Could also be over current in HV such as a bad FBT.

To diagnose safely you need a variac & AC amp meter.

1) unplug the degausser.
2) hook meter in series with AC line.
3) plug in to variac set at apx 90 V
4) turn on but DONT let the meter go above 1 amp.
If it draws over an amp its 95% HV.
If it stays on its 95% power supply.
Sometime a set wont start at 90 V. turn up a little at a time till it starts.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:11 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Usually the power supply isnt regulating & triggering HV shut down ( HVSD )
Could also be over current in HV such as a bad FBT.

To diagnose safely you need a variac & AC amp meter.

1) unplug the degausser.
2) hook meter in series with AC line.
3) plug in to variac set at apx 90 V
4) turn on but DONT let the meter go above 1 amp.
If it draws over an amp its 95% HV.
If it stays on its 95% power supply.
Sometime a set wont start at 90 V. turn up a little at a time till it starts.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
The 13" models always seemed to need a 13013 regulator. I don't remember the exact number.
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2018, 01:48 PM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
The 13" models always seemed to need a 13013 regulator. I don't remember the exact number.
STR30130 IIRC last 3 numbers are the voltage output.
Also came in 30110, 30120, 30123, 30125. maybe more...
Also either Samsung or Gold star had a glass diode across 2 pins that shorted.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:46 PM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Usually the power supply isnt regulating & triggering HV shut down ( HVSD )
Could also be over current in HV such as a bad FBT.

To diagnose safely you need a variac & AC amp meter.

1) unplug the degausser.
2) hook meter in series with AC line.
3) plug in to variac set at apx 90 V
4) turn on but DONT let the meter go above 1 amp.
If it draws over an amp its 95% HV.
If it stays on its 95% power supply.
Sometime a set wont start at 90 V. turn up a little at a time till it starts.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

I have a couple questions about this before I mess with with this set. Luckily I do have a variac and plenty of meters so this shouldn't be too bad. Anyways I am not sure how to put the meter in series with the AC line. Am I hooking the positive lead to one side of the AC line, and the Negative to the other? I am afraid of blowing the meter honestly.

Also I am a bit confused what you mean by "95%". Do you mean that it's a 95% chance that is the issue? May be a stupid question but I am trying to not miss a single detail in the instructions to ensure the right results and to avoid damaging anything.


Also not sure if this helps but this set is 19".
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  #6  
Old 07-24-2018, 12:02 AM
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Jon A. Jon A. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealtest View Post
I have a couple questions about this before I mess with with this set. Luckily I do have a variac and plenty of meters so this shouldn't be too bad. Anyways I am not sure how to put the meter in series with the AC line. Am I hooking the positive lead to one side of the AC line, and the Negative to the other? I am afraid of blowing the meter honestly.

Also I am a bit confused what you mean by "95%". Do you mean that it's a 95% chance that is the issue? May be a stupid question but I am trying to not miss a single detail in the instructions to ensure the right results and to avoid damaging anything.


Also not sure if this helps but this set is 19".
First make sure you're using a meter that measures amps and leave one lead at the meter end connected to common as usual; you'll probably have to move the other to the appropriate connector. That's how it works with my meter anyway, no idea if others and/or newer ones differ. As for connecting it in series with the line, one side has to be disconnected from the set somehow--the hot side will work for sure but I'm not sure of neutral--and the meter itself used to complete the circuit. I have never used the amps setting on mine, I'm yet to rig up some kind of pigtail connector I can quickly and safely plug into.

I believe you're right about the 95% probability part, I can't imagine it meaning anything else.
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Old 07-24-2018, 09:08 AM
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Yes 95% chance thats the area of problem.
The meter goes in series with the line. In other words
you are cutting one of the wires & inserting the meter.
Its a very common process so make up a little test jig.
If you happen to have a Sencore "Power Right" everything
is there for you, isolation, variac & metering. Great to have
but still costs $$ used due to its many uses.

73 Zeno
LFOD!
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:03 PM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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Instead of cutting the wire I will unsolder the live side and connect everything there. Eventually a test rig will be made but I just have to find all the parts around here and something to mount them in/on. I am a bit afraid of frying my meter but first I will try this with a junk meter, then move to the better meter.

I looked on the internet at those Sencore units and saw one for over $400. It sure is a nice unit though. I will keep an eye out locally for a unit like that (I've got many C-list adds looking for this stuff). Locally not too much has shown up but what has shown up gets used almost every day.

I'll update this once I get everything set up and tested. The owner would love to have this set back and I wouldn't mind the extra bench space.
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  #9  
Old 07-25-2018, 01:44 PM
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Jon A. Jon A. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealtest View Post
Instead of cutting the wire I will unsolder the live side and connect everything there. Eventually a test rig will be made but I just have to find all the parts around here and something to mount them in/on. I am a bit afraid of frying my meter but first I will try this with a junk meter, then move to the better meter.

I looked on the internet at those Sencore units and saw one for over $400. It sure is a nice unit though. I will keep an eye out locally for a unit like that (I've got many C-list adds looking for this stuff). Locally not too much has shown up but what has shown up gets used almost every day.
Good call, I've done my share of damage due to inexperience.

On my meter the jack for testing current draw is fused so nothing to worry about. I would rather avoid blowing the fuse though, those I need tend to be unavailable locally.

Keep your eye on the listings, 4 bills sounds like a pretty common gouging for one of those units. Fortunately I found a nice one for a decent price when I had some extra scratch come in, around 3 bills shipped in early 2015, and even then the cross-border shipping prices were pretty bad. I'll probably still make a test jig for my meter though as that measures current draw up to 10A.
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Old 07-25-2018, 08:50 PM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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Originally Posted by Jon A. View Post
Good call, I've done my share of damage due to inexperience.

On my meter the jack for testing current draw is fused so nothing to worry about. I would rather avoid blowing the fuse though, those I need tend to be unavailable locally.

Keep your eye on the listings, 4 bills sounds like a pretty common gouging for one of those units. Fortunately I found a nice one for a decent price when I had some extra scratch come in, around 3 bills shipped in early 2015, and even then the cross-border shipping prices were pretty bad. I'll probably still make a test jig for my meter though as that measures current draw up to 10A.


So I just tested the tv and the amp draw is 1.5 amps roughly. When I saw that I smacked the emergency kill button on the variac to avoid damaging anything. I have had units cook in the past to hopefully this set is okay.


Even if a fuse is blown on a meter sometimes you have to get another one. I blew a fuse in my craftsman meter and that caused it to become wildly inaccurate with resistance tests and now on some setting instead of reading "0.00" it always gets a reading. Maybe that's just the nature of this particular meter when it gets damaged, but I have been warned about fuses protecting a unit too late.

I will certainly keep an eye out for one of those. I am trying to get a bunch of tv repair equipment Saturday from someone with bulk. Maybe a hidden gem will be in there. Dang I hope so.
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Old 07-25-2018, 10:11 PM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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Quick update here, there are already some bad parts.

On the heatsink there are two transistors, a 2sd555 and a STR30125. The 2sd555 is obviousally bad, and the STR30125 seems to have taken damage since the collector reads as 711 ohms, and the emitter reads as 2850ish ohms. From what I can tell both of these parts are part of the HV section.


So far I haven't found any other dead parts which is odd. It is also odd that the fuses did not blow. They are covered in heavy dust so it is obvious they have not been replaced.
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  #12  
Old 07-26-2018, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealtest View Post
So I just tested the tv and the amp draw is 1.5 amps roughly. When I saw that I smacked the emergency kill button on the variac to avoid damaging anything. I have had units cook in the past to hopefully this set is okay.


Even if a fuse is blown on a meter sometimes you have to get another one. I blew a fuse in my craftsman meter and that caused it to become wildly inaccurate with resistance tests and now on some setting instead of reading "0.00" it always gets a reading. Maybe that's just the nature of this particular meter when it gets damaged, but I have been warned about fuses protecting a unit too late.

I will certainly keep an eye out for one of those. I am trying to get a bunch of tv repair equipment Saturday from someone with bulk. Maybe a hidden gem will be in there. Dang I hope so.
Did you remember to unplug the degaussing coil before powering up? That draws a lot of current on a cold start.

I think it's likely you'll get some good stuff out of that bulk deal, assuming you're in the US. I got my modest selection from US sellers, it's a lot harder to find that stuff North of the border, especially in my region.

I wouldn't expect much from a Craftsman meter, especially a newer one. I use a Fluke 77.

Last edited by Jon A.; 07-26-2018 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 07-27-2018, 10:06 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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The STR is the 125V regulator.
2SD555 makes no sense. Maybe a 2SD1555 ?? if
so its the hoz out. They only dead short, will get zero ohms
no mater where the leads are.
Did you get pix or sound ?
Also post the model ###

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:48 AM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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Yes, the coil was unplugged. Funny thing though, but this set and my trinitron are the only sets I have even noticed the coil on. They all do have them though, right?

I am in the US so maybe this lot of gear will be decent. I am helping someone get into the hobby so this will be good from him as well. The owners think it's awesome someone messes with old Tv's like they used to so that's always good,

My bad, the transistor is a 2sd1555 model, which I have ordered in a set of 5pcs for $1.42 free shipping (surprising really). This one is not a dead short, but it reads something no matter where the leads are so it is not longer functioning as a transistor. More like a wonky three way resistor. I have had transistors in amp sections do this so and it was not pretty.


This set did not stay on long enough to get a picture. I did briefly get a low pitched garbled noise out of the speaker (terrifying noise too, it made me jump), but then the set turned off.

The model is "celebrity" TC9140M according to the tag. I did not see a number on the chassis so hopefully that is enough info to identify it.
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Old 07-27-2018, 03:55 PM
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Yup all modern colors have a DGS coil.
Set is unlisted in Sams. Look on CRT socket for a chassis ##
like K20. If not there look on main board. We can still go father
without a manual.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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