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  #121  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:51 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I cleaned up my good picture tube I got from the ETF in October. It had some glue from duct tape in several places on the metal cone. I cleaned off the gunk, removed the labels (there were 2 of them. 1 was a Caution label and the other was also a Caution label with the CRT serial number on it), lightly sanded and cleaned off the cone. I then masked off the glass portion to the tube. One more cleaning with acetone and then 2 coats of Rust-Oleum Black BBQ paint. When dry then 2 coats of Satin Clear Enamel. This CRT looks good!

I then recreated the labels using my CAD program. Saved them as pdf's and a trip to the copy place gave me some nice red labels on light card stock. After I trimmed them to size, I used some spray contact glue and fixed them into place. Not exact duplicates but very close.



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  #122  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:59 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I need to make up and add the chassis labels tomorrow.

Here are some pics of the chassis sans labels.
























Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2017 at 10:02 PM.
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  #123  
Old 12-06-2017, 10:05 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
I cleaned up my good picture tube I got from the ETF in October. It had some glue from duct tape in several places on the metal cone. I cleaned off the gunk, removed the labels (there were 2 of them. 1 was a Caution label and the other was also a Caution label with the CRT serial number on it), lightly sanded and cleaned off the cone. I then masked off the glass portion to the tube. One more cleaning with acetone and then 2 coats of Rust-Oleum Black BBQ paint. When dry then 2 coats of Satin Clear Enamel. This CRT looks good!

I then recreated the labels using my CAD program. Saved them as pdf's and a trip to the copy place gave me some nice red labels on light card stock. After I trimmed them to size, I used some spray contact glue and fixed them into place. Not exact duplicates but very close.



Hope the HV connector gets good contact with that new paint.

I have a bakelite Admiral just like the one in the background on top of my Zenith porthole...Some of those Admirals (mine included) had one of Admiral's first LP changers.
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  #124  
Old 12-06-2017, 10:07 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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A very generous member of this Forum gave me a B&K 415 and a 1077B along with most of the cables. I wanted to use the 415 to align this set and after making up the missing cable and converting the mic connectors to BNC, I found out that the 415 doesn't work on the "sweep" function. So over the next week I'll dive into that to see if I can get it going. I'll make a post in the Test Equipment section when that happens.
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  #125  
Old 12-06-2017, 10:13 PM
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I could be wrong, but I believe the 415 is a 44Mc IF rig, but this TV has a 21Mc IF (as do most pre-1955 sets as well as some late 50's sets)...If I'm right you will not beable to use the 415 as is to align this set (someone did find a way to heterodyne the 415 down to 21Mc with outboard parts IIRC).
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  #126  
Old 12-06-2017, 10:15 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Hope the HV connector gets good contact with that new paint.

I have a bakelite Admiral just like the one in the background on top of my Zenith porthole...Some of those Admirals (mine included) had one of Admiral's first LP changers.
Not to worry, that area was cleaned and not painted.

Yup, all restored and a new cartridge installed. This Admiral is the 2 speed changer.

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  #127  
Old 12-06-2017, 10:32 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
I could be wrong, but I believe the 415 is a 44Mc IF rig, but this TV has a 21Mc IF (as do most pre-1955 sets as well as some late 50's sets)...If I'm right you will not beable to use the 415 as is to align this set (someone did find a way to heterodyne the 415 down to 21Mc with outboard parts IIRC).
This set use a 44mc sweep.
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  #128  
Old 12-07-2017, 12:03 AM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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It looks great. But why did you decide to paint the main chassis?
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  #129  
Old 12-07-2017, 12:06 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
It looks great. But why did you decide to paint the main chassis?
After I cleaned it, it just didn't look good. It had some streaks and it was "dull" looking.
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  #130  
Old 12-07-2017, 12:19 AM
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Oh, OK. But you need to realize that metal plating is that way right out of the bath. Now you've made it into a work of art, which I suppose is even more interesting for most folks to enjoy today.
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  #131  
Old 12-07-2017, 07:05 AM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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The painted chassis looks great, but I've run into enough bad chassis grounds from rivets, screws, and other mounts in the past that I would never risk creating that situation on my own. But then I've never tried to restore a radio or TV to visual perfection before. Good job, Chris!

.
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  #132  
Old 12-07-2017, 10:26 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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And the chassis labels are done.







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  #133  
Old 12-08-2017, 05:52 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Beautiful job but one thought occurs to me. Capacitors can get warm from self heating due to internal ESR plus ripple current. Especially the main B+ filter caps. Sealing them up with hot glue and PVC isn't going to allow them to breathe much and may hasten their demise.
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Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
Thanks Bob. Good thought. After I get it running and with the can off I'll do a temp measurement and report back. I just might need to be reminded. Then again with the can on might be a good idea. We'll see together how this method works out.
I checked the temps today using my HF infrared thermometer. I took a measurement when I started, then 2 hours later. Here are the results:

E-Cap - Start - 2 Hours later with Can - 2 Hours later without the can
C1 - 22C - 46.1C - 39.3C
C2 - 22C - 63.1C - 43.9C
C3 - 23C - 45.7C - 40.4C
C4 - 22C - 38.0C - 32.9C

C2 is located on the power supply chassis next to V11 6BF5 audio output tube. This tube glows brightly under normal operation and gets very hot. IIRC it measured @268 F.

It looks like the can and sleeve actually acts as a barrier to the surrounding heat of the chassis as shown by about a 3 to 5 degree difference between the can being on or off. The exception is C2 due to being close to the 6BF5.

This test wasn't very scientific but does demonstrate that enclosing them in the PVC and their cans actually proves to reduce the heat of the E-Caps. In any case, all of these E-Caps are 105C and are no where near their rated temperature.

I did a life span estimate from the Nichicon website of C2 22uf 500V E-Caps at 45C, and their life span was 131,400 hours. That's about 45 years at 8 hours a day, every day!

Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-08-2017 at 06:37 PM.
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  #134  
Old 12-08-2017, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post

E-Cap - Start - 2 Hours later with Can - 2 Hours later without the can
C1 - 22C - 46.1C - 49.3C
C2 - 22C - 63.1C - 43.9C
C3 - 23C - 45.7C - 40.4C
C4 - 22C - 38.0C - 32.9C

C2 is located on the power supply chassis next to V11 6BF5 audio output tube. This tube glows brightly under normal operation and gets very hot. IIRC it measured @268 F.

It looks like the can and sleeve actually acts as a barrier to the surrounding heat of the chassis as shown by about a 3 to 5 degree difference between the can being on or off. The exception is C2 due to being close to the 6BF5.
To me it looks like they all ran cooler without the can except for C1?
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  #135  
Old 12-08-2017, 06:36 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
To me it looks like they all ran cooler without the can except for C1?
Yeah, a typo. I'll correct it. It should be 39.3C.
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