#1
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My 1992 ford explorer
I bought this new back in 1992, got about 150k miles on it.
some of the stuff done not on the videos radius arm bushings (clunky sounds under floor boards, very common problem). rebuilt trans (recent). new springs (seemed a little droopy did while doing radius arm bushings). shock/brakes, normal wear stuff. MAF never had any engine issues. inside door handle busted (common got a replacement coming, video to follow). It's mainly used to get tv's these days, can easy fit a monster combo. radiator problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo_ApCZI5vo replaced cassette with CD oem radio https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJV7S05GHRk the old radio and the new radio https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jhl0IY_MLv4 New speaker to replace blown speaker https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juJzSU3Tl9c Last edited by DaveWM; 07-14-2014 at 12:04 PM. |
#2
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Neato, Had that exact radiator leak on the Wife's Accord, I guess those transmission
coolers are installed pretty much the same, Her car now has a NAPA radiator, and that is the one that had the leak. Naturally, the second video of yours I watched was titled "squirrel". - Very cool.... .
__________________
Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" |
#3
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that was a cute little fella, very social, as I am sure must have a million human visitors along I-10
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IuLN...CVtyRrqXVtll-g it was very humid, in the AM and I think the camera must have been cold from riding in the truck, causing the condense on the lens. |
#4
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That squirrel is an unusual one, normally we can't get near them. |
#5
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.
__________________
Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" |
Audiokarma |
#6
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I thought I should replace the brake fluid, started by sucking out old (1/2 way) and replacing new, did that a few times until it was reasonable clean.
tried bleeding rears, did not want to flow, I got some out, no air, but way too hard. fronts bleeding went as it should. Did some research, seems lots of folks have issues getting rears done. not sure if its the RAB unit but I assume so. Not sure if it needs some speacial device to plug in (read that somewhere) or if its just bad from years of yuck fluid (rust). the rears had VERY little wear so I wonder if they are working at all. Of course I did replace the shoes a couple years ago, and do not drive the car much and I know how to drive so brake wear is low in general. |
#7
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I inquired about replacing the front pads on my daily driver, a 2006 Toyota Prius. They said that they don't do brakes on any Hybrids. Brakes are related in Hybrids, to the regenerative system. The brakes only lasted 186K miles! |
#8
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got my driver side door handle in, looks like it should be an easy fit. Hopefully better made than the orig, since it broke years ago. video to come on that.
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#9
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Door handle in, boy that was easy, pull the door panel, grind off the melted on plastic studs, clean up holes, pop in new panel piece, used steel clips over new studs, replace panel, done. I have been fighting that stupid broken handle for 10 yrs easy.
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#10
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Why don't you set the rear up on jack stands, have someone step on the brake pedal while you try and rotate the tire? If they don't work at all it could be the case that you have a stuck caliper or something.
Try going about 30 mph on an empty road and slam on the brakes.. if it doesn't stop in a straight line or starts to tend one way or another there's a good chance your rears aren't working properly. This could be awful in a panic stop situation. Brake parts are cheap and even replacing calipers is no big deal. Are the rears drums or disk? |
Audiokarma |
#11
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fronts work fine, rear would I think but just not getting much pressure to them. I am 90% sure its the RABS unit, my play is to either replace it or bypass it.
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#12
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Another possibility is brake hoses. Sometimes they rot on the inside, and the internal diameter goes to a pinhole. I had it happen on an old Ford F-250. What if you totally remove the bleeder screw, maybe it's just corroded inside the hole?
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#13
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more truck work.
Reading the ford forum I found yak about installing a heater control cut off valve. On that (and many fords IIRC) model ford left the heat core on all the time, and uses a blend door to cut off in max ac mode, but its still in the cab with you and if the blend door leaks you get hot air from the core. junk yard time find a valve that was used in the later model year (same gen, guess ford decided to use the valve when they went from R-12 to R134a, perhaps it needed a little help keeping cool), grabbed some extra vacuum lines and fittings (needed a T). before installing valve I wanted to run the vac lines, so had to poke a hole thru a firewall plug, fished a plastic vac line into place, temp hooked up the servo on the valve and then installed the T on the max AC sero (applies vac to operate the recirculate door, so only Max AC will cut out the heater core, this is the way it was plumbed at the factory). I did a quick test with the eng running to confirm no vac leaks and the servo operated the valve as it should. all good so only need to cut the heater hoses and install. This model uses recirculate valve so both hoses must be cut and 4 connections made. while at the yard I picked a spare ECU module and power amp, they were cheap so stocked up. |
#14
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posted up a video of my heater bypass install, no leaks, will have to learn how to paint next. the last time I painted a car was back in the early 1980's and it was with enamel. I presume paint tech has come along way since then.
I would like to just wait for better weather, put up some sheet plastic in the garage for a temp paint booth and have at it. |
#15
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Audiokarma |
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