#91
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Quote:
You like the CTC16 chassis. Do their flybacks normally run a tad on the warm to almost hot side? |
#92
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Quote:
Only RCA flys that ran hot were in some of the 19" tube portables - the pulse regulator sets, as we called them. The load vs size got them hot, but I can't recall one ever failing. We used one as a loaner and the only problems were usually related to the 5GH8s. Too unreliable to sell, so we kept 'em for loaner sets. I like all RCA color sets, up to the CTC175, and any with a MST/MSC module.... The CTC16 was RCAs largest-selling tube sets, with the exception of the CTC38 (another flyback eater, 119834), IIRC. The 16 was extended in the CTC16X, so those numbers were thrown in too. Somewhere in Google books is a book about Japanese dumping, and the EIA production numbers for domestic sets from 1964 to 1970, by brand, is listed. RCA creamed the competition in the mid-60s, but Zenith and others caught them by 1970, through initial quality and features. We sold and serviced RCA until 81, then it was just servicing. Mass merchandisers were selling sets cheaper than we could get them from RCA, but we didn't buy entire railroad carloads at a time either.... Back to the flybacks - read the service clinic articles in Radio Electronics and Electronics World magazines - authors such as Jack Darr, Art Margolis, Carl Babcoke, and Homer Davidson - these guys were servicers that got to write about it, and dogged many a chassis to find the unlikely culprit. But Darr and others also wrote about prevention of problems (callback avoidance) and how to get a set healthy for the long haul. Not too many specifics, but enough generalities to get a sense of what to check....all of their stuff is over on AmericanRadioHistory - the search engine is wonky, so try different combinations to find what you are looking for. Oh, and the January Issue of Radio Electronics in the 60s generally was their "Color TV" issue, with more articles on Color TV than the rest of the year's issues....
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#93
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Here's just one service clinic, this one dealing with Boost voltage, but in the artilcle, Jack Darr gives up some info on HOT current and why it may be high:
http://www.americanradiohistory.com/...-Page-0070.pdf Boost cap leaky or shorted, or a shorted winding in yoke - both can cause HOT current to increase, and cook the fly. Here, the biggest killer of flybacks and yokes was heat and humidity, something our region has plenty of during the summer, when the TV was used as a babysitter for the kids. "The kids said it went fuzzy, then white, and then it smoked. They said they didn't touch it...." Dead give away, either a bad fly, or a focus rectifier stick gave up the ghost.
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#94
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Findem Keepim: I did give it around 15-25 min to dry before reassembling the cage and running it. I've never needed to use a caulk or corona dope to fix an arcing/corona problem before (previous issues I've dealt with were solved by cleaning dirt off insulators and or replacing bad HV wire). I only ran it that way because in the youtube videos by Shango66 that Arcanine pointed me to for reference Shango66 seemed to do the same thing: remove old material, caulk and turn it back on with the caulk wet....I'll remember to give it more dry time next time I need to do this. Wish I'd known before I did it....
The issue with fly warmth is that the cathode current is on the low end of the range. I don't think it's exceeding the back of the hand contact rule, but it still bugs me how warm it gets. Quote:
It did not look like there is a enough clearance between the side of the cabinet and the side of the HV box for a fan, but I can recheck. A separate PS is not really necessary. It's fairly easy to rectify the set's heater line, add a filter cap so the fan sees clean enough DC, and a small user fan switch in a discreet place. The laptop sounds awesome! I have my own windows 7 install disc that I've used with several machines. The 10 installation was a free upgrade from 7 on my school machine, and most of the time spent was preparing the Win 7 OS for a drive image backup (closing/saving the mountain of open stuff that being on for a few weeks-months straight accumulates, moving files to external drive to shrink the size of the backup image, defragmentation, run anti-virus, etc.). With the drive image backup I can go back to Win 7 anytime, or throw the image on another drive and go between them by drive swapping. I like Win 10 so far. The back end is better programmed and it runs better/faster on my laptop than 7 did. There are a couple of things about the look of the taskbar I dislike, but I'll fix or get over them. I also hate the change in mouse commands for photo viewer (makes reading Manga a PITA), but there should be ways around that. BTW: I got that little Admiral going last night. It was the ion trap that was extinguishing raster. It has a funky intermittent in the tuner (I believe) that kills all reception, but it can be persuaded to work. I recapped the IF board since that was easy with the back off. It is rather dim yet so I plan to test the CRT.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#95
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Quote: "The HV rect tube is a RCA 3A3C the chart calls for a 3A3A....I seem to recall once reading that some variants of that tube caused arcing in the CTC-16, but I can't recall it exactly or find it....Could that be the cause?"
There seems to be some variance in the height of the tube(s) and the "C" versions may be somewhat shorter, causing issues with the tube contacting the top of the flyback. There should be enough slack/adjustability in the top cover as it sets in place but good to verify. |
Audiokarma |
#96
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Any updates on this? My DM's not making it though?
I'm starting to miss it~ |
#97
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It is basically as I left it in the last post (started other projects and left it as is). I tried to unbolt the fly to put heat-sink compound between it and the chassis for better cooling, but the bolts holding the fly are stubborn, and after trying every safe hand tool I have and penetrating oil with no results....I decided I rather not do it than start trying things that might risk damaging the flyback. I probably should look for a high line voltage tap on the primary of the power transformer and if there is one connect it...I did not install the cooling fan (but I'll give you some fans, parts and advise if you want)...I should also try to make a line bucking transformer for you...
I sent you a PM.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#98
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The line voltage tap is easy to spot. It's on a terminal strip under the chassis, right under the power xfmr area. Look for a terminal with only one wire and nothing else going to it.
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#99
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I have looked into cooling fans. The only set I have one on is a CTC-5 due to the rarity of the FLY. One thing to remember about vintage TV's do NOT leave them on unattended, even for just a few minutes. They are WAY past any expected use date and the flys were an issue even back when new. The concern I have over forced air cooling is IF the fly still manages to overheat, you will have a blow touch on your hands. The flys tend to be in a confined steel box I presume on reason was safety, as in fire containment. Adding the fan pumping oxygen to a burning lump of tar will really stoke the flames.
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#100
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5 flybacks are super easy to find, I have one here you want it? It's the 4's and 21-CT-55's that are near impossible to replace, in fact I'd take the fly out of my Wingate and replace it with one from a 4 if I had one to spare. A Wingate with stiff HV would be a super nice set to watch, too bad they made 'em wrong from the jump.
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