1967 Black and White Zenith tube tv chassis 13X16(Z)

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by zeno

In some pixs the HV cup looks quite messy & HV rect socket turning green.
The filament winding arc is common, replace with flexible 20 KV wire.
I see two pix of white lines. One hoz & the other vert. The kind
of problem that nobody wants, at least without a full suite of
test eqt. & tube collection.
Good little sets IIRC only built for a year or two.

Zeno

+1
I've replaced the 2 wire HV rect filament winding of the flyback and or the HV lead to the CRT on several sets. A good source is curb find 90s CRT sets. Whenever I see a curb BPC that's sat a few weeks (garbage men can't legally take them) without being rescued I steal the HV lead and a handful of other parts.

[Lain94]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

+1
I've replaced the 2 wire HV rect filament winding of the flyback and or the HV lead to the CRT on several sets. A good source is curb find 90s CRT sets. Whenever I see a curb BPC that's sat a few weeks (garbage men can't legally take them) without being rescued I steal the HV lead and a handful of other parts.

So the two wire winding is usually a pretty simple fix then? Sounds like I am better off replacing the wire in that situation as opposed to using lots of corona dope to fight with the old wire insulation. What is the gauge typically of this wire? Why does it seem to me that anytime I have had flyback arcing occuring in one of these old tvs, it seems to always happen from the 2 wire winding as opposed to the main rubber tire (that is what I call it, or if I have not had lunch yet a chocolate mini hostess donut)

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Lain94

So the two wire winding is usually a pretty simple fix then? Sounds like I am better off replacing the wire in that situation as opposed to using lots of corona dope to fight with the old wire insulation. What is the gauge typically of this wire? Why does it seem to me that anytime I have had flyback arcing occuring in one of these old tvs, it seems to always happen from the 2 wire winding as opposed to the main rubber tire (that is what I call it, or if I have not had lunch yet a chocolate mini hostess donut)

Yes replacing the wire is better and easier...Just access the solder lugs on the HV rect socket, desolder the old wire, make sure the new wire makes the same number of turns around the flyback frame and solder in the new wire. Some techs will just delete the rect heater winding and install a SS tube replacement and I've had luck with that too.
I have no clue what the guage is (it only carries the rect filament current so it doesn't have to be particularly thick), but the insulation HAS TO BE rated at least 20KV (30KV is preferable) for monochrome and 30KV (40KV is preferable) for color.

The reason the filament winding arcs to the frame but the doughnut rarely does is that the frame is grounded and the filament winding has the full 8-25KV of the set on it with only one piece of insulation separating it from ground. The center windings of the doughnut have the lowest voltage on them (sometimes their grounded, but often their 100-450V above ground) so if the higher voltage windings of the doughnut closer to the outside have insulation failure they're usually more likely to arc to the lower voltage windings... Eventually creating a carbon track which eventually shorts out the flyback and kills it.

[Lain94]

Replaced old HV wire and anode those goes to CRT with new replacement. Sadly issues is still persisting. Straight white bright vertical line on crt that is mostly in the middle sometimes a bit slight to the left. A bit stumped on this one and annoyed after being so close to fully restoring. No other symptoms. Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?