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  #31  
Old 11-13-2018, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Telecolor 3007 View Post
And how I can align them corectly?
What's the differnce between press tape and duck tape?
Press tape is a clear tape which is pre-punched with the perforations of a film, is designed not to stretch, and has an adhesive which bonds permanently to the film. The pins on the splicer align with the holes in the film and press-tape. Press tapes come in short length, maybe 3cm long, all ready to install. They work with cheap splicers, and to paraphrase a film expert I talked to, they're designed for ladies stringing together their home vacation films.

Duck tape is very thick, has no perforations, and is usually silver color, it's designed for sealing heating pipes and ducts. If you tried it on film, it would jam the projector. It's too thick, and the adhesive will slip, and let go. It's a recipe for disaster if you use it on anything related to film.

The third type of splicer uses a tape which comes on a roll, and is just like press tape, but has no perforations. The splicer itself punches new holes. Those splicers are at least $300USD - $500 USD used, usually more. This is what the pros use.

With a cement splicer, the splicer holds the film in the perfect position as it's being glued. Alignment via the sprocket holes. It also has a built in scraper to remove the emulsion from one side of the film, so the glue will stick.

All splicers cut the film perfectly for the splice, and hold it in place. With tape you have a "butt splice", whereas with cement there's a small overlap. That's why cement always requires sacrificing at least one frame. But 16mm film moves at 24 frames per second, so one frame is only 1/24 s, or 0.04s. Not enough time to worry about as a hobbyist. Another thing you need to do when your're splicing, is black out the sound track with a marker where the splice is, or it will make noise when it hits the sound drum.

Last edited by maxhifi; 11-13-2018 at 04:00 PM.
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  #32  
Old 11-13-2018, 04:20 PM
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Oh, I must get special tape. I wonder how much it costs. I found spools (empty reals) on ebay.de , but with the transportation they are almost 90 U.S. Dollars ... expensive for here... it will be like for and U.S.A. folk to pay 300-400 U.S.D. for them.
But how I will I know where to cut if I have to do it between the frames?
A splicer that punches holes... that's what I like.
Man, I get into the unknown. I'm geting into a craft that is alsmost gone. But younger folks should do it in order not to dessapear.
And I must save those films. Not having box for them is one thing, but using paper clips to hold 'em... I got waves? Can I make the film smooth again in order not to damage it during projection?
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  #33  
Old 11-13-2018, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Telecolor 3007 View Post
Oh, I must get special tape. I wonder how much it costs. I found spools (empty reals) on ebay.de , but with the transportation they are almost 90 U.S. Dollars ... expensive for here... it will be like for and U.S.A. folk to pay 300-400 U.S.D. for them.
But how I will I know where to cut if I have to do it between the frames?
A splicer that punches holes... that's what I like.
Man, I get into the unknown. I'm geting into a craft that is alsmost gone. But younger folks should do it in order not to dessapear.
And I must save those films. Not having box for them is one thing, but using paper clips to hold 'em... I got waves? Can I make the film smooth again in order not to damage it during projection?
The splicer cuts the film in the right place, it's much more simple than you're imagining. You just have to see it done to understand it. The whole point of the splicer, is it's a tool that cuts the film, and holds it together properly so it can be glued, or whatever. I got my Eastman cement splicer for like $15 at an antique mall, I can make a splice in about 60 seconds. It took some practice to get good at it, but really, don't worry about it.

Are you saying the films you found are not already on reels? How are they being stored, just as loose film? For cheaper shipping, look at plastic reels. Actually in your case I'd be looking at stuff from the former USSR, they had lots of 16mm equipment. Surely you can get some reels from Ukraine or Moscow cheaper than from the USA or Europe?

If the film is really in bad shape, it might not be worth saving. If it's moldy, or smells like vinegar, or is brittle, it's junk - nothing can save it. Can you post some photos of what you are taking about?

You're right about going into the unknown.. film stuff gets expensive quickly in 2018.

Last edited by maxhifi; 11-13-2018 at 04:58 PM.
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  #34  
Old 11-13-2018, 04:59 PM
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The film isn't on spools. Just rolled like tape and put 'em into newspapers. They don't smell like vinegar. And they aren't brittle.
From outise EU you have custom taxes. And I don't speak Russian.
A aquaintice of mine haves and "Bell & Howell" 1695 TQIII. Made in Japan, automatic loading. I wonder how good it is.
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  #35  
Old 11-13-2018, 05:14 PM
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A aquaintice of mine haves and "Bell & Howell" 1695 TQIII. Made in Japan, automatic loading. I wonder how good it is.
Most Russian sellers will speak English if it means selling something

Anyway, that B&H should be a good projector. One caution is B&H projectors have a nylon gear which can break down over time. It's possible to buy a new one, but it's a bitch to install it. I haven't tried to do it. If it functions OK now, it's probably a much safer bet than an old Romanian projector, and you will always be able to source parts.

Here's info about the worm gear

https://ian-partridge.com/new_bh_worm.html

I guess the fact is that every projector is old, and will need some attention to work properly. It's best to find one where service manuals/info and parts aren't impossible to find. Also, if it's a popular model someone on a forum will probably be able to help you with fixing it.
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  #36  
Old 11-13-2018, 05:27 PM
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My dream machine is the "Siemens" 2000 with tube amplifier. Metal, not plastic.
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  #37  
Old 11-13-2018, 05:27 PM
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Ahhh, the classic old B&H "autojam". I never got one to thread right. The ones we had in school were tube (that's how long ago it was!) amp.

The even older B&H ones are pretty much bulletproof, but a royal pain to use and oh yeah, noisy!

But, it's a B&H. They were always pretty good units.
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  #38  
Old 11-13-2018, 05:41 PM
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So the darn machine could load the film wrongly and screw it?
What a nice editing machine... but way over expensive fo me: https://www.olx.ro/oferta/boxe-vinta...tml#8c5d418681

But how in the world does an 16 m.m. splicer that punches holes looks like?
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  #39  
Old 11-13-2018, 05:59 PM
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So the darn machine could load the film wrongly and screw it?
What a nice editing machine... but way over expensive fo me: https://www.olx.ro/oferta/boxe-vinta...tml#8c5d418681

But how in the world does an 16 m.m. splicer that punches holes looks like?
Manual load projectors are confusing for the average teacher or other person stuck with operating film equipment, so companies came up with ways to simplify things. There's "slot load" machines, and there's "autoload". The concept being to simplify operation, and reduce film damage.

Autoload works fine IF the leader of the film is in perfect shape. If it's not, it ends up jamming and eating the film. There is also a way to load this kind of projector manually, if you read the instructions.

My dream projector is anything with a xenon lamp.. the EIKI models with a Xenon lamp are way brighter than the halogen or incandescent models, and can make a really great picture. I'm not actively looking for one though, my DeVry will do for now.
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  #40  
Old 11-13-2018, 06:02 PM
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I had to buy a new lens, to learn how to re-silver a mirror, to make new rollers to replace some lost, to make new rubber rollers from scratch - to rebuild the amplifier, replace the projection lamp, and modify the case to fit 2000 foot reels. s.
I'd really like to hear how you make new rubber rollers... I'm sure all the members here that work on tape decks, record changers and film equipment would find it useful to know.
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  #41  
Old 11-13-2018, 06:27 PM
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But how do you glue movie with film cement? Blank a few frames?
Found something here... it ain't cheap: https://shop.van-eck.net/film-suppli...a/SF-0013.html
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Last edited by Telecolor 3007; 11-13-2018 at 06:30 PM.
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  #42  
Old 11-13-2018, 07:14 PM
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I'd really like to hear how you make new rubber rollers... I'm sure all the members here that work on tape decks, record changers and film equipment would find it useful to know.
Vinyl tubing with same ID as original rubber roller, cut with razor blade, and fitted to old bearing with assistance from heat gun. It only works when OD isn't critical to function of device. It may or may not work in other applications, I suspect not too well when the rubber is used to transmit torque, but for an idler in a projector it definitely can work well enough to get things going. The spot I used it is a pinch roller against the flywheel damper preceding the sound drum.
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  #43  
Old 11-13-2018, 07:51 PM
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Vinyl tubing with same ID as original rubber roller, cut with razor blade, and fitted to old bearing with assistance from heat gun. It only works when OD isn't critical to function of device. It may or may not work in other applications, I suspect not too well when the rubber is used to transmit torque, but for an idler in a projector it definitely can work well enough to get things going. The spot I used it is a pinch roller against the flywheel damper preceding the sound drum.
Interesting. I bet with a lathe one could machine the outer diameter to precise specs.
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  #44  
Old 11-13-2018, 08:01 PM
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Interesting. I bet with a lathe one could machine the outer diameter to precise specs.
If I had a lathe, I'd want to use something with a bit more friction than vinyl tubing. Its main advantage, is its fairly consistent thickness, so the roller isn't going to be oval shape and cause audible issues. It's a bit of a kludge, but I've played hundreds of films now successfully. The original roller was some kind of natural rubber, and all that was left was decomposed goo. You can even stretch it a bit with a heat gun.
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  #45  
Old 11-13-2018, 08:15 PM
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But how do you glue movie with film cement? Blank a few frames?
Found something here... it ain't cheap: https://shop.van-eck.net/film-suppli...a/SF-0013.html
You don't really notice missing frames, it goes by fast. Plus you only splice film if it breaks, or to add leader to the beginning and end, or to make a long film out of some short ones. The main reason I splice film is to fix crappy old dried out splices which failed. You will learn all about that soon
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