AMC Eagle

[MadMan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

but it's listed for the 2BBL, not the 2BBD and I don't know what the difference is.

I'm not a 100% sure, but I don't think the 'D' means anything. '2BBL' is a very typical - almost colloquial - 'abbreviation' that just refers to the carb having 2 'barrels' (jets). Unless the different 'abbreviation' is deliberate to mean having an electronic carb. My money's on '2BBD' being either a misspelling, or just a idiosyncrasy of AMC.

Also, as a piece of advice, don't go too far down the rabbit hole with your PCV issue. You might be on to something there, but it's always best to start with the simplest things (Occam's razor, anyone?) AND the more common failure points, like plugs, wires, etc, etc.

EDIT: so I did a little >research< and apparently, BB is an actual abbreviation for 'Ball and Ball,' which are some people's surnames. So technically, BBD means Ball & Ball Dual barrel, as opposed to a Carter or Holley, or what have you. However, Carter bought out and made the BB design, so it's technically a style of Carter carburetor. However, it's still important to remember that '2BBL' IS a colloquialism that's used to refer to any 2 barrel carb, and it's not necessarily indicating that it's any particular brand or type of carb, other than that it has 2 barrels.

Also, also, you might want to thumb through Allpar and see what you can gleam about your Eagle.

[mr_rye89]

I know my suggestion might be simplistic, but why not get a regular 2 barrel carb for this?

I had a '79 Toyota truck with a 20R 2.2L 4 banger that had a 2 barrel Aisin-Seiki carb with tons of emissions spaghetti on/around it. I got rid of it and put a Toyota specific Weber 32/36 DGEV 2BBL carb on it and it solved all my carb related issues. I did have to regulate the fuel pressure down to 3 psi though.

If a guy was really ambitious, he could maybe fit a RENIX fuel system off a Cherokee

Is the ignition system tied into the carburetor computer somehow?

[MadMan]

...why? He'd still have to tune it.

[bgadow]

Back when I had an old IH pickup powered by a 258 I did a lot of reading on the subject. Mine was (mostly) pre-emissions with a very simple Holley 1bbl. Many of the Jeep guys online talked about the hot ticket being a Motorcraft 2bbl, I think from the later 70's.

[MadMan]

(See what I mean about the 'BBL' term being a colloquialism?)

[MIPS]

New sol-vac came in. Woo, I have high idle again!



Also did a parts inventory and it turns out that the heater core bypass I salvaged is not actually needed on my car. It's only needed on models with Air Conditioning and it's a VERY common failure point.
So it was a surprise when I found people pretty much throwing parts at me in exchange for the thing, simply because the diaphgram held a vacuum, so it's been refurbished.



Also had the front hub actuator tested when the car was in for seals. They confirmed that it operates with relatively little vacuum, however the transfer case actuator still will not pull it into or out of 4WD. They were not being billed to service the 4WD so it looks like I'll be spending more time underneath testing all the vacuum lines for a leak.

[mr_rye89]

That's cool that you got fast idle back

Does this car have a dana 30/35 with a vacuum actuated center axle disconnect? I'm just curious.....

[MadMan]

I hate those heater valves. Most of them are plastic nowadays, but even the old metal ones, all they EVER do is leak coolant. One of our customers is a limo company, I swear their one stretch limo must've gone through 20 of those damn things. On one of their party buses, it got to the point where we just bypassed the fucker in winter, and then blocked the hoses in summer.

[MIPS]

It cooled off this week and I got fed up with the crap cabin heating so I spent today swearing in the rain as I drained the system, replaced all the hoses, flushed it several times because jesus christ it was pretty filthy and then reloaded it with 10L of new coolant.





The system must of really badly needed a flush because the heater core works a hell of a lot better now and both the upper and lower radiator hoses were about to fail. I also located a leak in the radiator. The bottom of the upper radiator hose port has a hairline crack that needs to be brazed shut.

Also I'm STILL finding oil in the air cleaner. It's not the PCV. The contamination is staying isolated to the cavity between the filter and the carb inlet.

[MadMan]

It looks like the carb is just coughing it out. Either that, or it's coming from that little thing next to the carb hole.

[fixmeplease]

your building up pressure in your engine and its shooting/sucking oil into your cleaner. Try putting a vented cap in place of the oil fill cap and see if that stops it. Im betting it will.

I once blew head gaskets out by not having a vented cap. It can happen. Your engine needs to breathe a little more. If you already have a vented cap I cant see then make sure it isnt plugged.

[MadMan]

Originally Posted by fixmeplease

I once blew head gaskets out by not having a vented cap. It can happen.

How?

[MIPS]

Originally Posted by fixmeplease

your building up pressure in your engine and its shooting/sucking oil into your cleaner. Try putting a vented cap in place of the oil fill cap and see if that stops it. Im betting it will.

The Eagle uses a PCV breather system and cannot use a vented cap. That orange thing at the top of the photo is the inlet cleaner. It's a FRAM part but the element pulls out easily and and can be repacked with cushion foam.



I was having major issues with oil coughing back up and into the filter and into the air cleaner but after I redid the valve cover seal it seemed to go away. The AMC Forum has recommended just replacing the old air cleaner element as at this point the oil is likely coming from the contaminated filter and not the PCV anymore. I just was not aware those filters could hold so much oil.

Anyways, today was Fuel and Oil day. New oil and filter, plus all the filters and rubber lines on the fuel system were replaced. The rigid lines were also bent back into shape as the previous owner apparently mangled them a little when he installed the aftermarket valve cover. Careful routing and maintenance of the fuel system is essential since the exhaust manifold directly below makes these cars notorious for fires.




Note the silver marked vacuum lines. Those were scheduled to all be replaced today however I only got as far as the vacuum lines for the Air Cleaner before I had enough of the gas fumes.

[Sandy G]

For whatever reason. I just found this thread. MY experience w/AMC cars goes back to 1974, when my dad bought me a stripper Gremlin w/the small 6-IIRC, it was a Vroom, Vroom motor w232 cubic inches.. About 6 months later I came home from school & there was a LOADED Gremlin X w/Levi's interior, flipper rear windows, A/C AM/FM, the whole 9 yards, along w/a 258 CID BIG Vrooom, Vroom mill.. The problem w/both of these cars was in their basically ABYSSIMAL build quality. In the snazzier one, the dashboard must have had no less than 378 pieces, which all 752 squeaked, beeped & rattled. The later car would routinely overheat if you ran it w/the AC, but the Levi's seats were pretty comfortable & wore well. The Driver's Door, the weld that held the window-top part- broke from the lower part of the door, & while it never came off, I was always worried about it, or just having it fall off going down the road. Gremlins weren't much longer in wheelbase length than they were wide, you could spin one easy peasy-And not even have to TRY hard. The back seat area was a sick joke, you could only sit back there if you had NO legs. You COULD fold the back seat down & it'd hold 2 kegs, which was all I cared about then... I hope AMC learnt a few lessons on build quality thru the years on yr Eagle..

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Sandy G

For whatever reason. I just found this thread. MY experience w/AMC cars goes back to 1974, when my dad bought me a stripper Gremlin w/the small 6-IIRC, it was a Vroom, Vroom motor w232 cubic inches..

Did yer stripper give good lap dances?