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  #16  
Old 09-22-2012, 01:07 PM
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Maybe one of the tubes in the HV circuit went bad.
My flyback has a fuse to protect it - did yours have a fuse?

Carl
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  #17  
Old 09-22-2012, 01:33 PM
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Does Sams give a cross-ref for an aftermarket tranny? Seems many of those black and white flybacks cross over for many sets. I recall a tranny box with a label on it saying "for b&w 16 inch and similar sets" on the label. I'll look when I get home in a few days. I'm sure we can find a cross-ref part number if we all put our heads together... and 1950's b&w flybacks are usually pretty easy to find. I know I have a few... I bet one will turn up.
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  #18  
Old 09-22-2012, 02:10 PM
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There was a fuse. But, it's not directly in the flyback circuit.
On the replacements, this set uses a special flyback with quite a few windings. One special winding is for afc, and, agc voltage.
Half the hv doubler circuit is mounted on this flyback.
Sam's shows no cross reference.
This set is really dissappointing.
I was getting the thing to finally work right. When the picture came on the last time, the vertical was finally full, and, stable.
Then, it popped, and, I lost my raster.
The rest you know about.

My house smells awful from that set.
I think when I finally gave up the flyback was starting on fire.
HV donut winding is burned open.
This one went up in a big way.

I want to give all you guys a fair warning.....
This is the second Raytheon that I've found flyback failure on. I suspect this is going to be more common, now. I have a 12" that I need to do repairs on. The flyback was good at last I knew, but, I'm beginning to think these are another one of their problems in design. If someone has the proper flyback working properly, I'd love one.
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  #19  
Old 09-22-2012, 02:25 PM
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Sorry to hear that your worst case scenario happened. Your AGC keying or signal overload could well have been related to the bad damper 'lytic.

I'm not surprised that your electrolytics failed in 18 years, as 18 years ago, most can types being sold were old stock.

What did surprise me was your orange drop failure.

The black-molded RMA-banded Spragues and their printed-value replacements were good for about 5 to 7 years. The brown drops were usually good for 15 years, but I'd never seen an orange drop fail, unless the leads were bent too sharply and the coating cracked at the lead and this allowed moisture to penetrate.

Jas.
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  #20  
Old 09-22-2012, 03:06 PM
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Never used them. The failed cap was an orange drop.
I didn't use cans. I used brand new individual Japanese electolytics.
Thanks .
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  #21  
Old 09-22-2012, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Cahill View Post
. . . . And, model is C-1602. It's in the same sam's at the M-1601. . . .

On the replacements, this set uses a special flyback with quite a few windings. One special winding is for afc, and, agc voltage.
Half the hv doubler circuit is mounted on this flyback.
Sam's shows no cross reference.
Well, the Sam's was written while the sets were still under warranty and until the warranties expired, the service men got their flybacks for free from Raytheon.

Thordarson - Meissner says that 4 different flybacks were used in the Raytheon C-1602 sets:

For Raytheon part number C-12M-18689-1 and C-12M-18689-1 use FLY-35 (chassis 12AX26, 27, 14AX21)


For Raytheon part number C-12M-19407-1 and C-12M-19407-2 use FLY-36 (chassis 14AX21)

Now at least you know what you are looking for.

Jas.
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  #22  
Old 09-22-2012, 07:10 PM
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Since you had an almost normal pic at 90 volts, and lots of trouble at full voltage I would say you have a bunch of bad caps. Or you replaced a bunch of caps with too low voltage ratings, or if you re-stuffed the old cans, you got the polarity backwards. I would re-check all those caps. I can't see all the bad caps you say if they were all just replaced 18 years ago and never used.... Just a squirrel's view... I'll shut up now....
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  #23  
Old 09-22-2012, 07:19 PM
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Moyers was able to get Flyback for my Raytheon, it wasn't exact, I had to swap the tire onto the old core but it worked.
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  #24  
Old 09-22-2012, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Username1 View Post
Since you had an almost normal pic at 90 volts, and lots of trouble at full voltage I would say you have a bunch of bad caps. Or you replaced a bunch of caps with too low voltage ratings, or if you re-stuffed the old cans, you got the polarity backwards. I would re-check all those caps. I can't see all the bad caps you say if they were all just replaced 18 years ago and never used.... Just a squirrel's view... I'll shut up now....
Strike 3. Yer out! Eh, no, this isn't basebball.

No, wasn't any of the above.
The electrolytics just plain went bad from non use....
And, leaked, and, bulged.
They wouldn't reform.
Can you tell me the number of theglyback you used?
Did it also have that special tapped winding for the afc, and, agc?
What model of Raytheon was yours?
Was it this one, or, something else??
This is a special flyback in all ways....
Bill Cahill
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  #25  
Old 09-23-2012, 12:01 AM
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Bill, I don't know the number, it probably wouldn't apply anyhow because mine is a 12" set.

It did have some extra windings, one for the Phase I know for sure because the polarity was backwards and it had to be reversed to work correctly.
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  #26  
Old 09-23-2012, 12:02 AM
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Bill, scratch the above, it was a Sonora I got the Fly for, I got a couple transformers from Moyer for my Raytheon.
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  #27  
Old 09-23-2012, 12:33 AM
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Eric, does this mean what I think it means? That there is nothing to do????
It is a very weird flyback.
Bill Cahill
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  #28  
Old 09-23-2012, 06:39 AM
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Bill, was your Flyback protected with a Fuse?

There are still some junker Raytheon TVs out there.
Hang on to that project until one turns up.
All of us can keep a look out for one.

Carl
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  #29  
Old 09-23-2012, 07:04 AM
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Smile

Well, I had cut second anode lead, and, power cord off, but, they are repairable.
I'll leave it together, minus tubes for awhile, and, hope you guys have good luck. I don't know how long my new filters will last, though.
If you find one, I need other parts, as well. I seem to have lost the screws that hold the assembly together, the front door, and, the speaker board. I have the brass fret work. I coluld use a better spkr., and, a back cover.
Also, if it has good a c connector, that assemblly. I had to hard wire mine as it got broken.
Thanks. I'll keep it together for now in hopes you have good luck.
I moved chassis on bench. Working on new old project.
A rare RCA Victor 1939 table victrola that uses PP 2A3's for audio output, and, has neat chrome plated grills in front.
It's a neat machine, and, I've had it for over 30 years.
I'm doing a complete restore. Two of the transformers are actually chrome plated, as are some chassis hole caps.
This will be nice when finnished. I'll post it in antique phonographs soon.
Bill Cahill
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