#14
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Duck tape is very thick, has no perforations, and is usually silver color, it's designed for sealing heating pipes and ducts. If you tried it on film, it would jam the projector. It's too thick, and the adhesive will slip, and let go. It's a recipe for disaster if you use it on anything related to film. The third type of splicer uses a tape which comes on a roll, and is just like press tape, but has no perforations. The splicer itself punches new holes. Those splicers are at least $300USD - $500 USD used, usually more. This is what the pros use. With a cement splicer, the splicer holds the film in the perfect position as it's being glued. Alignment via the sprocket holes. It also has a built in scraper to remove the emulsion from one side of the film, so the glue will stick. All splicers cut the film perfectly for the splice, and hold it in place. With tape you have a "butt splice", whereas with cement there's a small overlap. That's why cement always requires sacrificing at least one frame. But 16mm film moves at 24 frames per second, so one frame is only 1/24 s, or 0.04s. Not enough time to worry about as a hobbyist. Another thing you need to do when your're splicing, is black out the sound track with a marker where the splice is, or it will make noise when it hits the sound drum. Last edited by maxhifi; 11-13-2018 at 04:00 PM. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|