RCA cataract removal

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by WISCOJIM

And you could use clear silicone caulk, rather than white!

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I do use clear...It ain't perfectly clear so I try not to let the bead get more than 1/4" in so it is never seen when installed.

[WISCOJIM]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I do use clear...It ain't perfectly clear so I try not to let the bead get more than 1/4" in so it is never seen when installed.

Yep, I meant as a tip for Dave who had used white caulk. Even if he had gotten the caulk on better, with white you would still see it around the CRT whenever looking at the set from a sharp angle.

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[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by WISCOJIM

Yep, I meant as a tip for Dave who had used white caulk. Even if he had gotten the caulk on better, with white you would still see it around the CRT whenever looking at the set from a sharp angle.

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Gotcha. I tend to take a quote of one of my posts as a direct reply to me...

[WISCOJIM]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Gotcha. I tend to take a quote of one of my posts as a direct reply to me...

Sorry for the confusion. I meant my response as a addition to what you had posted, not a criticism of your work, which looks great BTW.

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[DaveWM]

which Dave? I never use caulk. is the OP another Dave?

[WISCOJIM]

TUD1 = TheUniversalDave1

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by WISCOJIM

Sorry for the confusion. I meant my response as a addition to what you had posted, not a criticism of your work, which looks great BTW.

It's cool. I know/knew ya meant well. Thanks for the compliment. That was the first-third one I did (did them all of my first 3-4 cat removals in the same ~2-4 days so I can't remember the order any more).

Originally Posted by DaveWM

which Dave? I never use caulk. is the OP another Dave?

I think he's talking about TUD1, below his name it says "the universal dave".

[DavGoodlin]

Another Dave here....I was in a hurry and used what I had which was white silicone. I will be re-doing the attachment as it did spread inward so that it was seen at the sides of the 21" round tube.

Tom has the right stuff - GE clear silicone and I just bought some, maybe because I'm working on a GE

[MadMan]

Originally Posted by WISCOJIM

And you could use clear silicone caulk, rather than white!

Also, guys, I was looking into fixing my cracked cellphone glass, and they use a uv-cured glue called LOCA to bond the glass to the lcd. Wouldn't it make sense to use that for this? It's not terribly expensive, it would bond the entire safety glass to the tube, be completely clear, and - I imagine - offer some implosion protection, as versus nearly none that the bead of silicone around the edge offers.

[Radiotronman]

I agree that the clear silicone and clear double sided tape is definitely the way to go. If you do it neatly it will look just like new. Here's one I did last year.

[DaveWM]

Originally Posted by MadMan

Also, guys, I was looking into fixing my cracked cellphone glass, and they use a uv-cured glue called LOCA to bond the glass to the lcd. Wouldn't it make sense to use that for this? It's not terribly expensive, it would bond the entire safety glass to the tube, be completely clear, and - I imagine - offer some implosion protection, as versus nearly none that the bead of silicone around the edge offers.

I looks like the orig system was to install the glass, use tape to seal the edges and then inject the liquid thru a small plastic port. Not sure how the glass was maintained a consistent distance off the CRT face. I did a quick of a 20x20X.1 volume of 40cubed inch, about 22 oz. Not sure if its sold in bulk for that kind of delivery.

[DavGoodlin]

Originally Posted by Radiotronman

I agree that the clear silicone and clear double sided tape is definitely the way to go. If you do it neatly it will look just like new. Here's one I did last year.

That CRT on the left is identical in degredation to one in my shop right now. What method(s) did you get that one off?

I have a Colorama dated 67-04 , my "chassis test jig" crt, and the bonding agent for LCD mentioned above may be perfect to maintain some integrity on a CRT not in a console.

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

I looks like the orig system was to install the glass, use tape to seal the edges and then inject the liquid thru a small plastic port. Not sure how the glass was maintained a consistent distance off the CRT face.

4 identical spacers punched from a sheet of the same resin are placed at the corners - the safety glass is lowered into position, and then caulked with RTV102, then the resin is injected.

Patent 4656522, assigned to RCA has the details.

[Radiotronman]

I use a cardboard barrel padded with a moving blanket and sit it directly in the sun, in the summer of course. I use wood shims and a rubber mallet to tap the shims in every 15-20 minutes or so. I wait for a 90+degree day and let the sun do most of the work. I like the wood shims better because they cover a wider surface area and are gradually tapered.

[edison64]

Originally Posted by bgadow

The PVA (adhesive) seamed to vary a lot, and I guess it's condition after all these years matters, too. I first discovered water would work when I dug out an old RCA round tube that I'd left sitting out in the woods for a number of years. The PVA had turned to jelly. I did one in a kiddie pool and it worked after 2-3 weeks, though still took some prodding. Others haven't responded nearly so well, especially the green type used by Zenith and others.

The Zenith tubes with the Green Halo or cataract will not react to water as it is not PVA polyvinyl acetate water only works on the tubes that have a white or a grey cataract I've done quite a few and if never had a problem. But as I stated the green cataracts can only be removed with a heat gun and lots of patience or a hot wire usually a guitar string hooked to an old battery charger you simply pull it through and it melts its way and boy does it stink