1970s Zenith Console - Troubleshooting

[BeamT]

Good progress! I wouldn't be too concerned with the purity on the picture with the TV on its side. Wait until you are right side up. What signal source are you using? Its doesn't look like you are on channel? If this is an RF modulated source, usually you have a choice to output on Ch 3, or 4, make sure the tuner is the same, and fine tune for to the signal. Make sure you are connected to the VHF input, don't ask how I know. Leave the Chromatic button off for now, and adjust the individual controls for the levels you want. Sorry if this is too basic?

You can obviously see why someone mummified the old focus divider.

From my experience, Triplers seem to work or they don't, except the ones that arc in the mean time.

[ThePlague]

Originally Posted by BeamT

Good progress! I wouldn't be too concerned with the purity on the picture with the TV on its side. Wait until you are right side up. What signal source are you using? Its doesn't look like you are on channel? If this is an RF modulated source, usually you have a choice to output on Ch 3, or 4, make sure the tuner is the same, and fine tune for to the signal. Make sure you are connected to the VHF input, don't ask how I know. Leave the Chromatic button off for now, and adjust the individual controls for the levels you want. Sorry if this is too basic?

You can obviously see why someone mummified the old focus divider.

From my experience, Triplers seem to work or they don't, except the ones that arc in the mean time.

Thank you! I had the fire extinguisher ready for the first power on.

I guess the RF modulator I was using wasn't strong enough. I pulled out my Agile Modulator and am able to get a usable signal at least. Color off and its not too bad, but color on even a little bit and its rough. All images are channel 4. With the agile modulator, I was able to broadcast on UHF; picture is a little bit cleaner, but more or less the same.

I was able to sort out the fine tuning of the channels and the last image is the best I was able to get. Still not great. This is also with the focus adjustment maxed out. My kit came with a 4.7 megaohm resistor if the focus can't be adjust enough, but that was for a different set. Not sure if it is applicable here.

[BeamT]

Very good! Now you have a good sense of where you are at! Turn the color off and work toward the best B/W picture you can achieve. Nothing is going to look right with the set on its side. I would concentrate on solving the snapping every 10 seconds. It wouldn't hurt to clean in the inside of the set. I usually use a vacuum with a small paint brush and work gently through the chassis. Others will use a gentle amount of compressed air. Looks like you are inside, so that might not be your first choice. Take the tripler screws up and clean underneath and look for signs of arcing. Make sure the area around the Anode on the CRT bell is clean. DISCHARGE first, you have HV now, it will hold a charge. There are several spark gaps that may have carbon tracked or on the way, make sure CRT socket is clean and look for discoloration. Sometimes you can see the arc/snap with the room totally dark and listen carefully.

Do you have access to a HV probe to measure the HV?

Hopefully Zeno or others will chime in. I believe the added resister in the Divider Kit was to center the range of the focus control.

[zeno]

Good work ! Comments:.
63-9895 subs to 63-9896 also Only $6 back then !
Use the 4.7meg to center F & check the HV.
Check CRT socket. Look & smell. Most get damaged.
I dont see jail bars
Arcing. Sit behind it with lights out to spot the flash. Around the anode
they would sizzle from to much HV & leave carbon tracks. Clean up
real good with 91% isopropyl. The 2 hole anode cap also. IIRC
P## is 15-276-01 for the two holer.
Chromatic ON switches to a 2nd set of controls for bright, contrast,
color & tint. They are accessed through the hollow control shafts.
I always ran it in off pos.