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#1
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Nice job, You can keep doing what yer doing and end up with a nice job. But don't use
the air sander, hand sand it and you will end up with a much nicer job.... You might want to invest in a cleaner before you paint. Commonly just called a de-greaser, or silicon wax cleaner it will remove stuff that can be left behind, even after sanding.... Use a file on the rust spots.... Don't laugh just yet.... For the rust spots you will have to either get it all off, or it will just come back. Especially if you use that "rattle" brand paint. I have put 2 part paint over surface rust and it takes a lot longer to come back, I think it seals the surface much better...... Harder..? I don't know.... Better air seal.... Looks real good... Today's car paint is much more friendly than the stuff I learned with. It's cleaner, don't smell so much, and you won't be tasting it for weeks after yer done.... Centari was good but like a chemical plant. Dulux was pretty dam poisonous.... Now this Base/Clear you can almost put in yer coffee and still live.... And the water base stuff they use in Calif. you can use in a pinch as baby formula...... Big improvement over the decades... I still use my old Sears HVHP gun.... Fogs the entire town..... . .
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" Last edited by Username1; 08-06-2014 at 08:38 PM. |
#2
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I used lacquer thinner to wipe down after all the sanding, then a product called "final prep" or something like that, then a tack rag (that may have been it if it was contaminated) just before shooting the black. the green base wend on easy, but I should have either sanded more, or primed, or more coats (that I can still do) to get better coverage as you can still see some of the orig defects coming thru. I think better sanding a a primer just so the base does not have to mask so man underlying problems, but I am no paint guy so this is just me messing around.
I would like to find a dinged up body panel to go mess with to try doing dent removal. I may have to had auto body work to DAVE's VINTAGE TV repair shop that I plan to open when I retire. after the paint I plan to learn about auto upholestry. |
#3
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I've been around people who might be desperate enough to get high in such a way.
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#4
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many moons ago I painted a car outside (well in a barn actually) with enamel. I like working with it but yea the bugs were killer, fly lands and does the back stroke and you just have to sit there and watch it.
I have been using the duplicolor base/clear in the spray cans for this project. |
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Quote:
And one of those Chinese hand fans for the flies with curiosity but no landing gear down yet... I think the first car I did on the grass, from then on I put a tarp on the ground too, as most of the little flies seemed to be in the grass area too..... The second car came out much better than the first.... .
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" |
Audiokarma |
#6
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I tried flicking him out, just pissed him off and then he went in circles. I got to the point where I would just let them croak in there and sand them out then buff and wax, mostly leaving just tiny bits. fun days.
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#7
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nearly heat stroked out today, but got a driver side seat switch, man it was hot, got a spare as well. the set goes forward easy but you have to fiddle ALOT to get to go back. Picked up some parts that were on a 94 that look to be part of the air daming of the radiator to keep the hot air from getting back to the front of the condenser. Had the whole as replaced about 13 yrs ago, don't know if the tech that did it put in the foam sides that also keep the hot air out, but it was not there, not even any bits, so got some foam to seal that up as well.
Its working well now, but next time it needs service I am doing it myself. |
#8
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got the seat switch in, power seat now works as it should woo hoo. Slowly but surely I am getting everything fixed on this old truck.
to do list: brake line (slight kink done years ago in Mast cyl replacement, I have a bent line from a junker) fan and fan clutch foam surround the AC condenser air dam corrections to 134a specs (still have R-12 but planning ahead) hood light driver side door panel light driver side seats (the top us attached with a zipper so should be easy to remove for repair of the leather) driver side bottom will wait for cooler days but at least I know how to remove the seat, easy now that I can move it fore and aft. headliner paint that should get it back to as like new as possible. The drive line is solid, has a rebuilt trans and the motor run very smooth no oil or coolant loss. The only real prob is a very slow rear main bearing leak that I will just have to live with. I would like to get another 20yrs out of it. |
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