magnavox roundie

[holmesuser01]

The big problem, Timmy, is that there is not much room for a load of outboard capacitors on these chassis.

[timmy]

are the colors hard to set up and get right with a ctc16 clone. but here is a first pic of maggie . i cant seem to get the colors just right because some blues appear greenish, maybe the r,g,b, should be very low. and the red is strong also.

[mstaton]

Need to do a purity and grayscale followed by convergence. Looks pretty good in the pics.

[timmy]

i did the whole setup grey and purity but the colors are just to much so im going to set the colors again in the service mode but i will leave them low instead of turning them up just enough to see the color lines.

[consoleguy67]

Also, make sure you have the sepia switch off. It will make the whole picture appear to have a brownish/reddish tint.

[timmy]

is that the switch in the back above the quick picture, instant on?

[consoleguy67]

Yes. It will change the 'temprature' of the picture.

[Jeffhs]

Originally Posted by consoleguy67

Yes. It will change the 'temprature' of the picture.

That system has made a comeback, at least in Insignia flat-screen TVs. Mine has a menu option for color temperature, but it is not continuously variable either -- just three positions: warm, normal and cool. I think the switch on Timmy's set is even more limited -- just two positions, warm and off. Most people who had TVs with this option probably ignored it, or didn't even know it was there; same thing with the Chromix (Sears) and other types of color temperature controls on other brands. Most people found the adjustment so confusing and critical that they just set it at black and white (neutral) and forgot about it for the life of the set -- especially if that switch was, as in Timmy's set, on the rear apron of the chassis.

One of the best things ever to happen to color TV, IMHO, was when these switches and dials were finally done away with; as I said, these controls just made color tuning more complicated and confusing for most viewers, some of whom just settled for whatever was on the screen when they turned on the set -- even if the colors were so horribly off it wasn't funny. Back in color TV's early days, TV shops made a lot of house calls for sets with no color on a known colorcast only to discover that the fine tuning was not set properly, or a color antenna on a rotor was not pointed exactly at the station the person wanted to watch. The set owners did not realize that a color TV picture must be fine-tuned exactly to get any color in the picture at all. Today's flat-screen TVs are designed so that the viewer need not do anything but switch the set on, find a channel he or she wishes to watch, and enjoy the programs. I doubt that anyone even bothers with having a new HDTV calibrated anymore after installing it.

I guess TV manufacturers today do not expect that viewers are going to be adjusting the controls in the on-screen menus very much, since the buttons that activate these menus (and even the set's own power switch, channel +/- and volume +/- buttons) are often located on a small panel mounted on the side of the set. Menu access is often even more complicated using the remote, often requiring the use of a "shift" button which is pushed simultaneously with the menu button; this is something a lot of viewers just don't want to be bothered with, so many people just leave the OSD menus alone, if they are aware that such even exist.

BTW, I have been trying for practically the entire time (nearly six months) I've owned my flat-panel TV to find the counter (if there is one) that shows how many hours the backlight has been on since the television was purchased. It is not mentioned anywhere in the online manual, nor can I find it anywhere in the onscreen menus. This counter is very easily accessible, however, on my HP S2031 flat-screen computer monitor, as there is a menu option on the monitor's main OSD menu. Why this is readily accessible on a computer monitor, but not on a FP television, is beyond me. Maybe TV makers feel that most viewers don't care how long the backlight has been in use; that or else, since my FP television has LED backlighting, they feel such a counter is unnecessary, since LEDs last so much longer than the older cold-cathode fluorescent bulbs in some FP computer monitors and older flat-screen TVs.

I wonder if CCFLs are even used anymore in today's FP monitors and TVs, or have they all made the switch to LED arrays? Since LEDs consume much less power than do large CCFL fluorescent bulbs, I would think the latter have been all but completely replaced by the former -- witness how LED lighting has all but pushed fluorescent-tube lights out of the picture in American homes. I am referring to the long fluorescent tubes used in table lamps and such in the '60s-'70s, not the small screw-base CCFLs that have all but replaced incandescent bulbs, even in the face of the ban on the latter that was supposed to have gone into effect this year, but did not.

[ctc17]

Dont all trust the setup line thing. Watch the set with the color turned down for awhile and see if it appears to red or green whatever. Adjust the screens for the best black and white picture then turn the color up. It takes some time to get the setup. Dont just think because the line is white its correct.

[timmy]

well im done with the set up and it is what it is, its like the pic above , it is a little better but some blues are green and dont know why.

[consoleguy67]

I agree with ctc17. It does take a while to get the setup correct. I have a '64 Magnavox combo, which has been set up correctly by Bruce. You'll be amazed at how nice the color is with a little time and patience.

[timmy]

Originally Posted by consoleguy67

I agree with ctc17. It does take a while to get the setup correct. I have a '64 Magnavox combo, which has been set up correctly by Bruce. You'll be amazed at how nice the color is with a little time and patience.

i dont know i just cant get blues they show up as green and yellow is bearly there.

[holmesuser01]

Timmy,

If you bring up R G B one at a time, are they really red, blue, and green? If the purity is not right, the color wont be right either.

In setup, I'd bring up the red line first, then dim it to almost invisible, then blue to make an almost invisible purple, and then green, to make it look white. I'd look at the white screen, and add a touch of blue-ish to the screen.

Also, let your adjustments sit like they are. Look away for a few minutes, then look back at the B/W image. Do you notice any excess color in the picture?

[timmy]

i tried all that all the colors are strong on the lines during set up. purity is fine whites are fine and convergence is fine just the blue being green,lol.. for all i know the adjustments on the color board may have been touched because the quad coil was touched and broken and i fixed it and readjusted for good sound so who knows what was touched at any given time during its life time.

[holmesuser01]

Check your color tubes.