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#1
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Just a little grey but mostly powered phenolic.
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#2
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I would be leery of re-using that casing because of leakage concerns.
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#3
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Why? When I solder in a new cap where will it leak?
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#4
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Now that the innard's exposed to ambient air/moisture, seems like it'd be prone to corona and arc-over inside. Or maybe I'm just being a fuddyduddy.
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#5
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You're right! In full disclosure the re-stuffed cap leaked. I didn't even mess with it. I took it out and replaced it with a similar cap. Oh well.
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Audiokarma |
#6
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It certainly was a good try! I'm a novice, but would've expected it would have worked.
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#7
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Keep in mind this set has a pretty small viewing area. The 4:3 rectangle should almost fit entirely within the CRT face. Only a little of the corners gets clipped. You've got too much width and height. I think that might just be the retrace blanking interval on top.
Last edited by bandersen; 03-07-2017 at 05:14 PM. |
#8
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#9
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That looks good. If you want a big round picture you need to get yourself a Zenith Porthole.
BTW a lot of pictures have gone missing at the beginning of the thread. |
#10
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I thought I'd show everybody how I attach the power cord to the HV cage. The previous "technician" had replaced the cord and used JB Weld to hold in the original drilled out rivets. Of course he used way too much and I had to grind out a lot of the JB Weld.
I get the small plastic spacers and rivets from my local ACE hardware store. They are in those bins that are along the hardware aisle. I used plastic spacers that are 1/4 long, 1/4 diameter, with a #6 screw hole. The rivets are 1/8 diameter and 3/8 long. The rivets are a solid shank except for the last 1/16 inch or so. I use my heat gun to gently soften the plastic ears and insert the plastic spacers into the plug. If you have a keen eye, you'll see that one of the spacers is for a 4-40 screw while the other is for a 6-32 screw. Later on I removed the 4-40 spacer and inserted a 6-32 spacer. A 4-40 spacer is too small for the 1/8 rivet to pass through. I also use a 4-40 fender washer under the head of the rivet. Here you can see how much of the rivet needs to protrude through the HV cage. Not much at all. Once the rivet with the washer is in place, I put the head of the rivet on my bench vise anvil and support the HV cage using empty chip dip containers stacked to the correct height to have the HV cage level. I then use a small tack hammer and a center punch to begin to flare out the rivet. The center punch is the type that is pretty "blunt". Once the rivet firmly set with the center punch, I use a domed shaped bolt head to finish flatten out the rivet. You don't have to beat these rivets real hard. Just some gentle taps with the tack hammer. Here are the tools I use to set the rivet. Here is what it looks like when I'm done setting the rivets. And the finished product. |
Audiokarma |
#11
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I need some help guys. I'm reproducing the labels for this TV. I'm doing the label that goes on the back of the chassis that is a "Caution" label warning not to service the picture tube. I'm guessing that in the lower right hand corner is some small numbers that designates the part number of the label. My label was deteriorated enough that those numbers are no longer with the label.
Is anyone out there that has a 621TS that has a good label that could get me those numbers? Maybe the RCA 630TS sets had the same label? Thanks. |
#12
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932023-1
__________________
Tim |
#13
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#14
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On a slightly different note.
I've read about a database listing all the 621TS known to be in existence. Does anybody know where or who is keeping it? |
#15
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I was keeping a list but it got to be too much hassle.
Not the least of the problems was the lack of serial numbers from many submissions, without that there's no way to tell if a listing is a duplicate of a set that changed hands. |
Audiokarma |
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