Videokarma.org

Go Back   Videokarma.org TV - Video - Vintage Television & Radio Forums > Things with Motors

We appreciate your help

in keeping this site going.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #136  
Old 03-18-2015, 10:38 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
M is for Memory
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 14,762
Well I worked on the strap. I started off by trying to remove some surface rust on the tank, that had formed under the old straps, using Naval Jelly, but soon realized that it would require more time and effort than it is worth. So I cleaned the stuff off, let it dry and hit it with some spray lacquer (things tend to re-rust after Naval Jelly if not coated). I then proceeded to install the new strap.

One thing that bothers me is that the new one seems too tight/short. Stopped tightening it for a while because some of the pops and noises the tank was making were a little disconcerting.

I then came back a few minutes later and went at it again, and this time there were no odd noises, and I got it just about as far tightened down as I think it should be.

Part of me wonders if this is how it should be or if they made the straps for a shorter tank and added those projections midway through to allow the main portion to be cut, and the strap to stretch some (the originals lack the projection).

Tomorrow morning-afternoon I'll probably try and change the other strap.
If anyone thinks I'm doing this wrong or am too paranoid feel free to chime in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon A. View Post
I feel the same way about newer cars. Buying and maintaining one I consider ugly would be a complete waste of money for me. Besides, newer cars are so full of airbags, sensors and cameras that they take almost all responsibility away from the driver.
That and the all the software and plastic they are made of are a big turn off for me. I was with my friend Chris about two years ago when a SUV cut off his late 90's Prelude to turn into a store from the oncoming lane...He was able to get it down to 5-15MPH I'd reckon before the corner of his front "bumper" and the rear corner of theirs met. The plastic bumper on his car was destroyed along with significant damage to the hood, fender, and some of the stuff behind the bumper....The airbags did not deploy, and EPCOT's 'Test Track' ride was a good deal rougher than the impact felt (I was seated on the corner that made contact). Insurance totaled it he bought it back and paid the difference to have it fixed... Our families '02 CRV met a similar fate (no real rear bumper in it to speak of).

My Lincoln on the other hand has thick steel bumpers bolted directly to the frame. So if some crazy schnook (I see enough of them out here to have reason to worry) cuts me off or rear ends me in anything short of a truck or a Chevy Suburban sized SUV, I'll cut through them like the plastic and tin foil sneakers on wheels they are. Heck even trucks and semis, while likely able to total it, ain't going to have an easy time reaching me unless they manage to hit the driver side....I find all that protective steel bulk around me quite comforting.
__________________
Tom C.

Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off!
What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4

Last edited by Electronic M; 03-18-2015 at 10:41 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #137  
Old 03-18-2015, 11:30 PM
Jon A.'s Avatar
Jon A. Jon A. is offline
Don't mess with Esther.
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 4,267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
My Lincoln on the other hand has thick steel bumpers bolted directly to the frame. So if some crazy schnook (I see enough of them out here to have reason to worry) cuts me off or rear ends me in anything short of a truck or a Chevy Suburban sized SUV, I'll cut through them like the plastic and tin foil sneakers on wheels they are.
That's pretty much what I was thinking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Heck even trucks and semis, while likely able to total it, ain't going to have an easy time reaching me unless they manage to hit the driver side....I find all that protective steel bulk around me quite comforting.
I wouldn't be too concerned about truck drivers. The worst drivers, around here anyway, tend to be bus drivers.
Reply With Quote
  #138  
Old 03-19-2015, 12:06 AM
maxhifi's Avatar
maxhifi maxhifi is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,841
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mJ5PcWziXT0

Devil's advocate, sure, but it does show the advantage in not having a metal bumper rigidly attached to the frame
Reply With Quote
  #139  
Old 03-19-2015, 02:23 AM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
M is for Memory
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 14,762
Wow, your post has quite a bit of info to digest/try and follow.... It took a long time to compose this reply too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
First off, on the 460 you just cannot bolt on stuff to the motor. they went thru SO MANY engineering iterations that a lot of head/intake/piston/carb combos do not play well with others when broken up.

As for the motor, you cannot just fit EFI to it, the stock carb heads and pistons and cam it will run like crap. You need to do a lot of work to go that route, then any EECIV ECM programmed for your axle ratio and tweec the fuel curve.
I kind of suspected that it would be much more involved than it sounded, which is partially why I was not 'gung ho' to start the ball rolling on that.
So basically your saying conversion to fuel injection is darn near stripping the block and building it back up from scratch?...Assuming that it sounds like an easier way to go would be just to get a good 90's fuel injected 460, and swap engines if fuel injection gets pursued.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
So, based on any budget, any engine mods are gonna be in the carb arena. Finding the form police package parts for the year - unobtanium.
So what you are saying is it would be better try and optimize the existent carb based system, than to pursue conversion to fuel injection?

I'm sure the factory original police engine options are unobtanium, but equivalents should not be hard to find. Depending on the package and year the parts were more or less an oil cooler, transmission cooler, high flow fuel pump, better heads, and a different cam....All but the last two should be easy to find modern equivalents for. I like the idea of adding the cooling accessories from a longevity standpoint since it seems every production year the Mark V got a bigger radiator (even the 79's that dropped the 460 from engine the options).

Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
Fortunately this is the future and there are entire websites dedicated to the car itself, ford itself, the engine itself etc...you will be able to find the info.
Yeah, I should start visiting those sites and forums when I can find time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
Now for body parts, look up 'the lincoln farm' in calvin PA. I know they guy (sold him some lincolns, got my tow dolly from him) he is a resource for body and interior parts.
Thanks for telling me about them. If I can't find what I'm looking for cheap locally I'll contact them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
Mileage - its gonna be good at ridding the earth of fossil fuels. I would suspect it does worse than my EFI big block suburban...and they both have 3 speeds.

If you find a proper E4OD (93 and newer) you can retrofit it - it bolts right in - and get a PCM for it (the Baumannator comes to mind) You are gonna pay some money to do this, its not faint of wallet, but it will get you the best mileage you are EVER gonna get. If you buy magnetic fuel lines or air cleaner inserts I will beat you myself.
I'm getting roughly 6MPG. It probably needs to have the carb and ignition tuned, since it idles rough especially in the cold.

Once I have more money to work with I may try the E4OD and Baumanator combo in lieu of rebuilding the original transmission.

Magnetic fuel lines (unless you have a lot of rust loose particles inside your tank) and the like strike me as the automotive equivalent of the Oxygen-free-copper audiophool cables.

Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
You did get a scroe here....the 460 is a low heat chocked off version, but that can be fixed. Evilly.
Could you please expand on how to go about fixing that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
If you can find a huge plenum huge snorkled 4v air cleaner assembly (might know of one locally) then install that. then you will get all the hp you are from that motor without mechanicals and maximize its efficiency. a 4bbl? not without other engine work - all it will do it dump more fuel down the pipe.
The first sentence is close to greek to me. Are you saying just to get a big air intake/filter housing?...If so I can hardly imagine one bigger than what it has (the round part is bigger around than the folks' jumbo Thanksgiving turkey cook pan).

Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
other things...the dura spark is pretty good ignition, you can get DS2 compatible coils, 7mm good wires and by all means re-hose the motor and PAY ATTENTION to the choppers and ported vacuum switches - all are available, and they actually do work pretty well.
IIRC mine uses points....Your recommending switching to Dura Spark II? What are you referring to by choppers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
since the exhaust is on the driveway surface ANYWAY, bend a couple downpipes and rig in some duals with 2 cats (gotta have them, dont care about your state law, federal law, if it had a cat then, it must now, but it can be a modern one)
I'm not sure what you mean by "on the driveway". The current state of the exhaust system can be seen below.

So what you are saying is to remove the T pipe off the back of the cats, and replace it with two short ones aimed out the sides and no muffler? Is there a good way to bend pipes without tools meant to do that?
Personally I rather keep the muffler and loose the cats...I like quiet more than I like the exhaust to smell good and please the Washington hippies that have spent too much time intentionally inhaling it directly.

My friends from college routinely remove cats from cars older than inspection age, and were telling me it is one of the cheapest best ways to boost fuel economy. Out here if it ain't got a modern computer port, or based too close to Milwaukee there is no emissions inspection.
I don't care about unenforced federal laws (the EPA and their commie policies can go take a dump in the woods for all I care).
I think the founding fathers and those of the Boston Tea Party would have agreed that bad laws, and regulations passed with sucky or even NO public representation were made to be flagrantly disobeyed...

Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
I noticed talk about the radio - heck with esr meters, just recap with 25v units and be done with it - they were not rocket science. if you ever get east to carlisle (like ford nats, spring, fall etc) there are guys there besides myself who fix them on the spot, or at least a few days later. some even have remand units.
That radio was fixed long ago and is rock solid now. I don't have an ESR meter capable of solid state value lytics* so recapping from used parts I have on hand is a gamble, and I have never really taken to online parts orders.
*My 50's Heathkit C-3 has a ESR-ish test (power factor), but with 50V min for all test voltages(IIRC) it would blow most low voltage lytics in SS gear...
__________________
Tom C.

Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off!
What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
Reply With Quote
  #140  
Old 03-19-2015, 02:37 AM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
M is for Memory
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 14,762
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon A. View Post
I wouldn't be too concerned about truck drivers. The worst drivers, around here anyway, tend to be bus drivers.
I've been in cars which were cut off by trucks (trailer less semis, and otherwise) before....Not fun. Not common, but not fun.

@maxhifi: I'd say that is partially invalid since a plethora of design changes for crash safety and even the rigidity of bumpers were implemented between 1959 and 1978.
__________________
Tom C.

Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off!
What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
Reply With Quote
Audiokarma
  #141  
Old 03-19-2015, 11:55 AM
Jon A.'s Avatar
Jon A. Jon A. is offline
Don't mess with Esther.
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 4,267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Magnetic fuel lines (unless you have a lot of rust loose particles inside your tank) and the like strike me as the automotive equivalent of the Oxygen-free-copper audiophool cables.
I didn't know such an insane marketing gimmick existed, even among *that* crowd. Quaddriver, you ought to be beating on anyone who falls for that.
Reply With Quote
  #142  
Old 03-19-2015, 12:07 PM
maxhifi's Avatar
maxhifi maxhifi is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
I've been in cars which were cut off by trucks (trailer less semis, and otherwise) before....Not fun. Not common, but not fun.

@maxhifi: I'd say that is partially invalid since a plethora of design changes for crash safety and even the rigidity of bumpers were implemented between 1959 and 1978.
And how about all the changes implemented between 1978 and 2015? And the fact that any 37 year old machine isn't going to be operating as new.. and some of the structure will be eroded by time and corrosion. The lack of crumple zones means that at high speed impacts there's nothing to absorb the force of the impact except for the inertia of the vehicle.. which may be substantial, but this kind of brute force management of collision impact isn't what drives any sort of modern design. And old cars don't perform well in roll over collisions either, new ones are much better at landing on their roof and allowing the driver to walk away.

I like old cars as much as you do, but safety is certainly not a reason to own one. In fact when I am driving an old car I like to take a bunch of emergency supplies with me to prepare for the inevitable extended and unplanned road side troubleshooting session.
Reply With Quote
  #143  
Old 03-19-2015, 04:03 PM
maxhifi's Avatar
maxhifi maxhifi is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,841
Oh - I just read the other post.. if you're getting 6 mpg, what you need is a tune up.

I suggest at a minimum: Get yourself some new points, a condenser, new rotor, new spark plugs, and possibly a carb rebuild kit. Get the following test gear: timing light and dwell meter.

First change and gap all the plugs, then change the points, condenser, and rotor, and set the base timing and dwell with vacuum advance disconnected. Then verify that vacuum advance works. I have struggled with rebuilding carbs and found that buying a rebuilt one is easier... you may not find the same thing, just my experience.

You will find that doing a tune up on the old beast is much easier than a convergence procedure for a colour TV, and much more rewarding financially.
Reply With Quote
  #144  
Old 03-19-2015, 04:41 PM
quaddriver quaddriver is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Moved to Pittsburgh to be closer to Primantis
Posts: 94
something nagged at me all day and I have been out of pocket all day, so when I got home I double checked. And this is gonna seem weird. And stranger as I go....

You said the car was built in october 77, which can make it a 78, but not necessarily. Ford used/uses a 'just in time' method of manufacturing, such that the VIN is created before the car and with the order sheet, causes the pieces to show up. If the car was ordered before oct 7-8 1977, it could be a 77.

How to tell?

Unlike everyone else who used 13 digit vins then, ford used 11. For your car, is the first digit a 7, 8 or 9? That gives the year as in 1977, 1978, 1979...

You expect it to be an 8

2nd digit is the plant.

digits 3 and 4 are the body style, Id expect 81, 82 or 89.

the 5th (and this is where it gets weird) is the engine

Is is 'A' or 'S'. 'A' being 460, 'S' being the 400.

Yes you read that right.

Why did I look this up? it dawned on me that once the 460 came out, it only had 2bbl versions in some real early 70's large (but not lincoln) ford and mercury cars, and cutaway vans used for campers.

Inside your door should be a plate that has things like body code, paint code, tranny code (either way its a C6) and axle code ('O' or '5' for 1977, O, J, 1 or 2 for 78)

at 6mpg, you are getting worse than the 8mpg in my camper using an EFI 460 which is the equivalent of a 1 car, 6 ton garage moving at 65mph...

So something is wrong. So before we can definitively tell you how to fix it, we have to know what you have, and there is no way that either engine had points. Both are long established as dura spark, so if you DO have points, and DO have a 460 with a 2bbl, someone did a transplant...

It could be you have a 400, with the 2.50 axle. (worst case scenario for mods)

So please research and get back...

Edited to add: another way to tell a 335 series 400 from a 385 series 460 is the valve cover bolts, 7= 385, 8 = 335. It would be an easy mistake for some to make, the ridiculous tall deck of the 351M/400 makes it nearly as wide as the 460, BUT, the 400 uses the same 4.38 bore spacing as the windsor so the heads are not as 'long' when looking side by side with the 460, and the block has a funny timing cover extention cast in to handle cooling, the 351M/400 intake manifold is dry - no water in it, whereas the 460 is wet and has a thermo housing pointing up at the front.
__________________
QuadDriver

Pioneer Silver-face Collector

Last edited by quaddriver; 03-19-2015 at 04:54 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #145  
Old 03-19-2015, 06:01 PM
Jon A.'s Avatar
Jon A. Jon A. is offline
Don't mess with Esther.
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 4,267
Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
at 6mpg, you are getting worse than the 8mpg in my camper using an EFI 460 which is the equivalent of a 1 car, 6 ton garage moving at 65mph...
Haha, I like that analogy. Also, it reminds me of the mobile home I saw being hauled along the highway recently. Widest mirror spacing I ever saw on a truck I thought.
Reply With Quote
Audiokarma
  #146  
Old 03-19-2015, 09:45 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
M is for Memory
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 14,762
Tank straps are done.


It is a 460 with a 2.50 axle. Valve cover nuts are neither 7 or 8, but +...However the engine sticker says it's a 7.5L (460CID) engine in there. You are right about there being no points. The wiring from the coil goes back to the firewall.
Here are some pictures to back that up.


And finally a couple of pictures of the engine because I don't think I've posted engine pictures yet.



My friend Chris says he has the equipment to tune it, and knows how so as soon we can get to it a tune up will be performed.
__________________
Tom C.

Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off!
What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4

Last edited by Electronic M; 03-19-2015 at 10:02 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #147  
Old 03-19-2015, 10:12 PM
quaddriver quaddriver is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Moved to Pittsburgh to be closer to Primantis
Posts: 94
Ok based on the A code motor:

A 460 CID 4V V-8 (52,466 Built; 72.3%)
Bore & stroke: 4.36 x 3.85 in.
Comp. ratio: 8.0:1
Horsepower: 210 at 4200 RPM
Torque: 357 lb.-ft. at 2200 RPM
Carburetor: Motorcraft 4350 <---which means....

underneath that air cleaner lid is a 4bbl carb. now we are getting somewhere, remove, rebuild, pay attention to the choke system. THAT is why it sputters when cold.

furthermore, you mentioned PS fluid leak, from the pics, you have the saginaw (GM) pump, very cheap to obtain.

As you work on the motor over the years, the factory valve cover and cleaner paint is 'old ford blue'.

See to the left of the motor (as you face car) the air cleaner 'arm' with the bellows hose and plastic? that is the cold air snorkle. Its not as restrictive as most, but it does impede air flow. why? noise. moving air = noise, lincoln owners dont wanna hear noise. If you can find a dual snorkle cleaner, more air inside. See the silver hose under the snorkle? heat riser. Make sure when cold the valve on top does in fact open - aids in cold start, it forces air past the manifolds and warms up sooner.
__________________
QuadDriver

Pioneer Silver-face Collector
Reply With Quote
  #148  
Old 03-23-2015, 02:08 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
Electronic M Electronic M is offline
M is for Memory
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pewaukee/Delafield Wi
Posts: 14,762
Quote:
Originally Posted by quaddriver View Post
Ok based on the A code motor:

A 460 CID 4V V-8 (52,466 Built; 72.3%)
Bore & stroke: 4.36 x 3.85 in.
Comp. ratio: 8.0:1
Horsepower: 210 at 4200 RPM
Torque: 357 lb.-ft. at 2200 RPM
Carburetor: Motorcraft 4350 <---which means....

underneath that air cleaner lid is a 4bbl carb. now we are getting somewhere, remove, rebuild, pay attention to the choke system. THAT is why it sputters when cold.

furthermore, you mentioned PS fluid leak, from the pics, you have the saginaw (GM) pump, very cheap to obtain.

As you work on the motor over the years, the factory valve cover and cleaner paint is 'old ford blue'.

See to the left of the motor (as you face car) the air cleaner 'arm' with the bellows hose and plastic? that is the cold air snorkle. Its not as restrictive as most, but it does impede air flow. why? noise. moving air = noise, lincoln owners dont wanna hear noise. If you can find a dual snorkle cleaner, more air inside. See the silver hose under the snorkle? heat riser. Make sure when cold the valve on top does in fact open - aids in cold start, it forces air past the manifolds and warms up sooner.
Thanks for the info. Me and a friend leaned up the fuel mixture last Friday, checked the idle speed (fast idle is good, slow idle where it tends to run rough is at the upper end of the tolerance range), and checked the timing (it looks right, but it is hard to tell for certain since only the TDC mark is still readily readable).

I don't think I have time to do a full rebuild with college in session, and even if I can find the time I want to make sure I can afford and source a rebuilt carb before I try, so that if I screw it up I have a fallback option ready.

I'll try to get to checking that intake/exhaust valve when I can.


I fixed the horns Saturday evening...Some times the horns not working is as simple as the horns not working...I tried jumpering their positive leads to battery + and nothing happened, so I unplugged them and connected a 12V lamp to their supply leads, and watched as the horn button lit the lamp when pressed (pfew, that would have been an annoying open to try and trace). I unbolted the horns, drilled out the rivets holding them together, and found that the switch contacts were dirty. The horn is basically an audio frequency relay oscillator with the solenoid arm connected to a metal acoustic diaphragm driving am acoustic horn. After cleaning the contacts I had to tweak their adjustment as I reassembled them to make it so that they would continue to oscillate after the diaphragm was properly clamped between the two halfs of the assembly. I'll have to recheck my work this evening to see if it is still good. In repairing them I realized that the horns have different tones from each other.

The coolant is a bit low so I'm going to try and get some this evening to top it off.
__________________
Tom C.

Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off!
What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
Reply With Quote
  #149  
Old 03-23-2015, 02:51 PM
maxhifi's Avatar
maxhifi maxhifi is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Thanks for the info. Me and a friend leaned up the fuel mixture last Friday, checked the idle speed (fast idle is good, slow idle where it tends to run rough is at the upper end of the tolerance range), and checked the timing (it looks right, but it is hard to tell for certain since only the TDC mark is still readily readable).

I don't think I have time to do a full rebuild with college in session, and even if I can find the time I want to make sure I can afford and source a rebuilt carb before I try, so that if I screw it up I have a fallback option ready.

I'll try to get to checking that intake/exhaust valve when I can.


The coolant is a bit low so I'm going to try and get some this evening to top it off.
One thing you may want to consider, is a self serve wrecking yard. You could get a used carb for pennies on the dollar, and take it apart/use it as a backup/rebuild it. Make sure to change the fuel filter when you do any work on the carb, just to be sure.

It shouldn't really be too hard to take it apart and do a rebuild, once you have a complete rebuild kit, and have read the carb's manual inside out and backwards. I wouldn't attempt it just based on the sheet which comes in the rebuilt kit's box, better to find complete rebuild instructions as a PDF from Ford somewhere and follow them exactly. Then when you install the new carb pay a lot of attention to all the hoses, and gaskets, etc. An air leak can cause all sorts of issues which are hard to troubleshoot, so any doubtful vacuum lines should be promptly replaced.

I am really starting to want an old domestic car thanks to this thread! Detroit iron is special!
Reply With Quote
  #150  
Old 03-23-2015, 08:46 PM
quaddriver quaddriver is offline
VideoKarma Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Moved to Pittsburgh to be closer to Primantis
Posts: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Thanks for the info. Me and a friend leaned up the fuel mixture last Friday, checked the idle speed (fast idle is good, slow idle where it tends to run rough is at the upper end of the tolerance range), and checked the timing (it looks right, but it is hard to tell for certain since only the TDC mark is still readily readable).

I don't think I have time to do a full rebuild with college in session, and even if I can find the time I want to make sure I can afford and source a rebuilt carb before I try, so that if I screw it up I have a fallback option ready.

I'll try to get to checking that intake/exhaust valve when I can.

.
Its a lost art....

carb work that is. Just think, at no point in your life was a carb offered on a car for sale...

Ok what you guys did, at BEST, was set the idle mixture. Lean, is actually not good, they can pollute more when too lean (lean miss)

To start off work like this you need a tool most people forget exist: vacuum gauge. At idle, what does she pull? higher number is better. before you can set any idles or mixes we gotta know if its sucking hard enuf...

the reason i said to rebuild the carb is that without knowing its pedigree, its done. its full of goo, it leaks, it smells, its corroded. The choke linkage on a 4bbl is a rather complex affair - not only does it apply the primary choke when cold and pull it off slowly, and idle step, it also has to lock out the secondaries in all but WOT operations.

too many times, the idle steps come off too fast, while the temps are too low. the emission strategies were always to get it off fast idle, rich mix as soon as possible, but this was never taken that seriously or done effectively until the early 80s. In the rebuild kit, will be the steps you need to initially set up the carb to have a good baseline.
__________________
QuadDriver

Pioneer Silver-face Collector
Reply With Quote
Audiokarma
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:44 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
©Copyright 2012 VideoKarma.org, All rights reserved.