#136
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Well I worked on the strap. I started off by trying to remove some surface rust on the tank, that had formed under the old straps, using Naval Jelly, but soon realized that it would require more time and effort than it is worth. So I cleaned the stuff off, let it dry and hit it with some spray lacquer (things tend to re-rust after Naval Jelly if not coated). I then proceeded to install the new strap.
One thing that bothers me is that the new one seems too tight/short. Stopped tightening it for a while because some of the pops and noises the tank was making were a little disconcerting. I then came back a few minutes later and went at it again, and this time there were no odd noises, and I got it just about as far tightened down as I think it should be. Part of me wonders if this is how it should be or if they made the straps for a shorter tank and added those projections midway through to allow the main portion to be cut, and the strap to stretch some (the originals lack the projection). Tomorrow morning-afternoon I'll probably try and change the other strap. If anyone thinks I'm doing this wrong or am too paranoid feel free to chime in. Quote:
My Lincoln on the other hand has thick steel bumpers bolted directly to the frame. So if some crazy schnook (I see enough of them out here to have reason to worry) cuts me off or rear ends me in anything short of a truck or a Chevy Suburban sized SUV, I'll cut through them like the plastic and tin foil sneakers on wheels they are. Heck even trucks and semis, while likely able to total it, ain't going to have an easy time reaching me unless they manage to hit the driver side....I find all that protective steel bulk around me quite comforting.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 03-18-2015 at 10:41 PM. |
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I wouldn't be too concerned about truck drivers. The worst drivers, around here anyway, tend to be bus drivers. |
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mJ5PcWziXT0
Devil's advocate, sure, but it does show the advantage in not having a metal bumper rigidly attached to the frame |
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Wow, your post has quite a bit of info to digest/try and follow.... It took a long time to compose this reply too.
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So basically your saying conversion to fuel injection is darn near stripping the block and building it back up from scratch?...Assuming that it sounds like an easier way to go would be just to get a good 90's fuel injected 460, and swap engines if fuel injection gets pursued. Quote:
I'm sure the factory original police engine options are unobtanium, but equivalents should not be hard to find. Depending on the package and year the parts were more or less an oil cooler, transmission cooler, high flow fuel pump, better heads, and a different cam....All but the last two should be easy to find modern equivalents for. I like the idea of adding the cooling accessories from a longevity standpoint since it seems every production year the Mark V got a bigger radiator (even the 79's that dropped the 460 from engine the options). Quote:
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Once I have more money to work with I may try the E4OD and Baumanator combo in lieu of rebuilding the original transmission. Magnetic fuel lines (unless you have a lot of rust loose particles inside your tank) and the like strike me as the automotive equivalent of the Oxygen-free-copper audiophool cables. Quote:
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So what you are saying is to remove the T pipe off the back of the cats, and replace it with two short ones aimed out the sides and no muffler? Is there a good way to bend pipes without tools meant to do that? Personally I rather keep the muffler and loose the cats...I like quiet more than I like the exhaust to smell good and please the Washington hippies that have spent too much time intentionally inhaling it directly. My friends from college routinely remove cats from cars older than inspection age, and were telling me it is one of the cheapest best ways to boost fuel economy. Out here if it ain't got a modern computer port, or based too close to Milwaukee there is no emissions inspection. I don't care about unenforced federal laws (the EPA and their commie policies can go take a dump in the woods for all I care). I think the founding fathers and those of the Boston Tea Party would have agreed that bad laws, and regulations passed with sucky or even NO public representation were made to be flagrantly disobeyed... Quote:
*My 50's Heathkit C-3 has a ESR-ish test (power factor), but with 50V min for all test voltages(IIRC) it would blow most low voltage lytics in SS gear...
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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@maxhifi: I'd say that is partially invalid since a plethora of design changes for crash safety and even the rigidity of bumpers were implemented between 1959 and 1978.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
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I didn't know such an insane marketing gimmick existed, even among *that* crowd. Quaddriver, you ought to be beating on anyone who falls for that.
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I like old cars as much as you do, but safety is certainly not a reason to own one. In fact when I am driving an old car I like to take a bunch of emergency supplies with me to prepare for the inevitable extended and unplanned road side troubleshooting session. |
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Oh - I just read the other post.. if you're getting 6 mpg, what you need is a tune up.
I suggest at a minimum: Get yourself some new points, a condenser, new rotor, new spark plugs, and possibly a carb rebuild kit. Get the following test gear: timing light and dwell meter. First change and gap all the plugs, then change the points, condenser, and rotor, and set the base timing and dwell with vacuum advance disconnected. Then verify that vacuum advance works. I have struggled with rebuilding carbs and found that buying a rebuilt one is easier... you may not find the same thing, just my experience. You will find that doing a tune up on the old beast is much easier than a convergence procedure for a colour TV, and much more rewarding financially. |
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something nagged at me all day and I have been out of pocket all day, so when I got home I double checked. And this is gonna seem weird. And stranger as I go....
You said the car was built in october 77, which can make it a 78, but not necessarily. Ford used/uses a 'just in time' method of manufacturing, such that the VIN is created before the car and with the order sheet, causes the pieces to show up. If the car was ordered before oct 7-8 1977, it could be a 77. How to tell? Unlike everyone else who used 13 digit vins then, ford used 11. For your car, is the first digit a 7, 8 or 9? That gives the year as in 1977, 1978, 1979... You expect it to be an 8 2nd digit is the plant. digits 3 and 4 are the body style, Id expect 81, 82 or 89. the 5th (and this is where it gets weird) is the engine Is is 'A' or 'S'. 'A' being 460, 'S' being the 400. Yes you read that right. Why did I look this up? it dawned on me that once the 460 came out, it only had 2bbl versions in some real early 70's large (but not lincoln) ford and mercury cars, and cutaway vans used for campers. Inside your door should be a plate that has things like body code, paint code, tranny code (either way its a C6) and axle code ('O' or '5' for 1977, O, J, 1 or 2 for 78) at 6mpg, you are getting worse than the 8mpg in my camper using an EFI 460 which is the equivalent of a 1 car, 6 ton garage moving at 65mph... So something is wrong. So before we can definitively tell you how to fix it, we have to know what you have, and there is no way that either engine had points. Both are long established as dura spark, so if you DO have points, and DO have a 460 with a 2bbl, someone did a transplant... It could be you have a 400, with the 2.50 axle. (worst case scenario for mods) So please research and get back... Edited to add: another way to tell a 335 series 400 from a 385 series 460 is the valve cover bolts, 7= 385, 8 = 335. It would be an easy mistake for some to make, the ridiculous tall deck of the 351M/400 makes it nearly as wide as the 460, BUT, the 400 uses the same 4.38 bore spacing as the windsor so the heads are not as 'long' when looking side by side with the 460, and the block has a funny timing cover extention cast in to handle cooling, the 351M/400 intake manifold is dry - no water in it, whereas the 460 is wet and has a thermo housing pointing up at the front.
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QuadDriver Pioneer Silver-face Collector Last edited by quaddriver; 03-19-2015 at 04:54 PM. |
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Haha, I like that analogy. Also, it reminds me of the mobile home I saw being hauled along the highway recently. Widest mirror spacing I ever saw on a truck I thought.
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Audiokarma |
#146
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Tank straps are done.
It is a 460 with a 2.50 axle. Valve cover nuts are neither 7 or 8, but +...However the engine sticker says it's a 7.5L (460CID) engine in there. You are right about there being no points. The wiring from the coil goes back to the firewall. Here are some pictures to back that up. And finally a couple of pictures of the engine because I don't think I've posted engine pictures yet. My friend Chris says he has the equipment to tune it, and knows how so as soon we can get to it a tune up will be performed.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 03-19-2015 at 10:02 PM. |
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Ok based on the A code motor:
A 460 CID 4V V-8 (52,466 Built; 72.3%) Bore & stroke: 4.36 x 3.85 in. Comp. ratio: 8.0:1 Horsepower: 210 at 4200 RPM Torque: 357 lb.-ft. at 2200 RPM Carburetor: Motorcraft 4350 <---which means.... underneath that air cleaner lid is a 4bbl carb. now we are getting somewhere, remove, rebuild, pay attention to the choke system. THAT is why it sputters when cold. furthermore, you mentioned PS fluid leak, from the pics, you have the saginaw (GM) pump, very cheap to obtain. As you work on the motor over the years, the factory valve cover and cleaner paint is 'old ford blue'. See to the left of the motor (as you face car) the air cleaner 'arm' with the bellows hose and plastic? that is the cold air snorkle. Its not as restrictive as most, but it does impede air flow. why? noise. moving air = noise, lincoln owners dont wanna hear noise. If you can find a dual snorkle cleaner, more air inside. See the silver hose under the snorkle? heat riser. Make sure when cold the valve on top does in fact open - aids in cold start, it forces air past the manifolds and warms up sooner.
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QuadDriver Pioneer Silver-face Collector |
#148
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I don't think I have time to do a full rebuild with college in session, and even if I can find the time I want to make sure I can afford and source a rebuilt carb before I try, so that if I screw it up I have a fallback option ready. I'll try to get to checking that intake/exhaust valve when I can. I fixed the horns Saturday evening...Some times the horns not working is as simple as the horns not working...I tried jumpering their positive leads to battery + and nothing happened, so I unplugged them and connected a 12V lamp to their supply leads, and watched as the horn button lit the lamp when pressed (pfew, that would have been an annoying open to try and trace). I unbolted the horns, drilled out the rivets holding them together, and found that the switch contacts were dirty. The horn is basically an audio frequency relay oscillator with the solenoid arm connected to a metal acoustic diaphragm driving am acoustic horn. After cleaning the contacts I had to tweak their adjustment as I reassembled them to make it so that they would continue to oscillate after the diaphragm was properly clamped between the two halfs of the assembly. I'll have to recheck my work this evening to see if it is still good. In repairing them I realized that the horns have different tones from each other. The coolant is a bit low so I'm going to try and get some this evening to top it off.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#149
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It shouldn't really be too hard to take it apart and do a rebuild, once you have a complete rebuild kit, and have read the carb's manual inside out and backwards. I wouldn't attempt it just based on the sheet which comes in the rebuilt kit's box, better to find complete rebuild instructions as a PDF from Ford somewhere and follow them exactly. Then when you install the new carb pay a lot of attention to all the hoses, and gaskets, etc. An air leak can cause all sorts of issues which are hard to troubleshoot, so any doubtful vacuum lines should be promptly replaced. I am really starting to want an old domestic car thanks to this thread! Detroit iron is special! |
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carb work that is. Just think, at no point in your life was a carb offered on a car for sale... Ok what you guys did, at BEST, was set the idle mixture. Lean, is actually not good, they can pollute more when too lean (lean miss) To start off work like this you need a tool most people forget exist: vacuum gauge. At idle, what does she pull? higher number is better. before you can set any idles or mixes we gotta know if its sucking hard enuf... the reason i said to rebuild the carb is that without knowing its pedigree, its done. its full of goo, it leaks, it smells, its corroded. The choke linkage on a 4bbl is a rather complex affair - not only does it apply the primary choke when cold and pull it off slowly, and idle step, it also has to lock out the secondaries in all but WOT operations. too many times, the idle steps come off too fast, while the temps are too low. the emission strategies were always to get it off fast idle, rich mix as soon as possible, but this was never taken that seriously or done effectively until the early 80s. In the rebuild kit, will be the steps you need to initially set up the carb to have a good baseline.
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QuadDriver Pioneer Silver-face Collector |
Audiokarma |
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