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  #61  
Old 12-05-2016, 12:02 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Here are the wire lengths, in inches, of the wire provided in the kit. All wire is solid 20 awg.

Black - 256
Brown - 60
Red - 240
Orange - 120
Yellow - 36
Green - 53
Blue - 53
White - 54
White/Orange - 18
Fiberglass Sleeving - 13

The fiberglass sleeving fits a 20awg wire.
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  #62  
Old 12-05-2016, 06:34 AM
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Findm-Keepm Findm-Keepm is offline
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On behalf of Violet Wire, I demand a recount.
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  #63  
Old 12-05-2016, 08:42 AM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
On behalf of Violet Wire, I demand a recount.
You sound like a former phone company employee. We called it violet, not purple.
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  #64  
Old 12-05-2016, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kvflyer View Post
You sound like a former phone company employee. We called it violet, not purple.
Nah, just that the resistor (and wire) color code is based on the color spectrum, it's ROY G BIV, not ROY G BIP

Black, Brown, Gray and White, be gone!

True story - I knew the resistor color code before the 2nd grade.....

NOW BACK TO THE OP's thread....
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  #65  
Old 12-05-2016, 03:14 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
Nah, just that the resistor (and wire) color code is based on the color spectrum, it's ROY G BIV, not ROY G BIP

Black, Brown, Gray and White, be gone!

True story - I knew the resistor color code before the 2nd grade.....

NOW BACK TO THE OP's thread....
My mnemonic has all the colors, but might be a bit dirty for the forums...It is third hand from a navy guy IIRC.
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  #66  
Old 12-05-2016, 07:02 PM
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My mnemonic has all the colors, but might be a bit dirty for the forums...It is third hand from a navy guy IIRC.
Bad Boys, Bad Beer, or Batman Beats?
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  #67  
Old 12-05-2016, 11:55 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Back on topic, I finished making up the wire schedule and assigning them color codes.

Here are the colors and their functions:

Black - B-
Brown - Filament
Red - B+ 130V
Orange - B++ 260V
Yellow - Cathode
Green - Grid
Blue - Plate
Violet - Speaker
Gray - 120VAC mains
White - Misc.

I used a few blue and green colors for misc. hook ups to keep the same color wire from going to adjacent terminal strip lugs. I did this maybe 3 or 4 times.

Going through this exercise, I did manage to find a couple of errors and made note of the corrections.

I'm attaching the wire schedule.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Tech-Master 5516 Wire Schedule.pdf (14.6 KB, 13 views)
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  #68  
Old 12-06-2016, 11:19 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
Back on topic, I finished making up the wire schedule and assigning them color codes.

Here are the colors and their functions:

Black - B-
Brown - Filament
Red - B+ 130V
Orange - B++ 260V
Yellow - Cathode
Green - Grid
Blue - Plate
Violet - Speaker
Gray - 120VAC mains
White - Misc.

I used a few blue and green colors for misc. hook ups to keep the same color wire from going to adjacent terminal strip lugs. I did this maybe 3 or 4 times.

Going through this exercise, I did manage to find a couple of errors and made note of the corrections.

I'm attaching the wire schedule.
According to the chart, it seems to follow the RMA color code. I like it a lot better for trouble shooting.
I built several Allied Knight-kits and they would furnish pre-cut wire of various lengths, the color corresponding to the length.
I always thought it was wrong, but I wired it per the instructions.
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  #69  
Old 12-06-2016, 09:34 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Yeah, I tried to follow the chart I found in the Radio Daze catalog.

Today I was looking at the chassis and decided to clean up the bottom like I did on the top. I also did the top of the IF strip too. Looks much better now. A lot closer to "brand new".



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  #70  
Old 12-07-2016, 07:35 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Good news to report coming up. Stay tuned.
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  #71  
Old 12-07-2016, 09:27 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I got a new 21FP4C rebuilt CRT. A big thank you to El Predicta who donated the CRT for this project. He also donated a spool of solid 20awg white wire. Thank you very much for your generosity!

Here are a few pictures of the CRT.




I tested the CRT on my B&K 467. It checked out at 1.7.


And the Life Test showed a drop from 1.7 to 1.65.


Here is a picture of the straight gun. Yeah, I have to glue the base back on.


Again a big shout out to El Predicta! Thank you.

Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-08-2016 at 09:58 AM.
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  #72  
Old 12-07-2016, 09:56 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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The new CRT fits very well to the chassis.





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  #73  
Old 12-10-2016, 10:19 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I started working on re-stuffing the E-Caps. The first one is the multi sectioned C43. It has a 20uf 150V, 10uf 150V, and a 100uf 25V.



After removing the cardboard cover, this is what I found:



I was a bit taken back but decided that what I should use is what the schematic and parts list calls for.

What do you think?
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  #74  
Old 12-10-2016, 10:30 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I'm in the middle of re-stuffing the E-Caps. I used my heat gun to heat up the cardboard cover and pulled it off the can. I then cleaned off all the black tar/wax from the capacitor. I then made some marks 3/8 inch up from the base of the cap. This is where I'll make the cut using my band saw. I cut each cap on the marks then dug out the caps innards. Cleaned up the bases and on the 2 single 200uf 150V caps I drilled 1/16 hole in the center and the other one near one of the mounting lugs. I'll run the wires through the holes and solder them to the correct lug.

I then took some 1" thin walled PVC tube and cut 1 inch lengths and trued up one end which was then marked.

After the bases were cleaned up and de-burred and the PVC tube de-burred and cleaned up, the marked end were epoxied into their bases. the excess epoxy was then wiped off and the assembly was cleaned using rubbing alcohol and then the new caps will be wired in.






Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-10-2016 at 10:43 PM.
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  #75  
Old 12-11-2016, 08:09 AM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
I was a bit taken back but decided that what I should use is what the schematic and parts list calls for.

What do you think?
I'd measure the cap and see what it truly was, and match that.

.
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