#91
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standard values:
https://ecee.colorado.edu/~mcclurel/...orsandcaps.pdf |
#92
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thanks everyone!!
PS, just checked schematic, old tv nut was correct. |
#93
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Quote:
Thanks. |
#94
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Just solder a jumper (wire) across the switch to make it be 'on' permanently.
But from the video, it looks like the break may be in the cord or the safety interlock. |
#95
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^^^ Yes. Before assuming it's the on-off switch, try holding the chassis steady so the set is on and flex the power cord to see if that's the problem. If it's not the cord/connection then proceed to check / bypass the on-off switch.
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Audiokarma |
#96
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The problem is in the power cord/safety interlock. I can tilt tv to the right nothing happens, tilt to the left it shuts off. Wiggle cord it goes on or off. Anyone feeling generous enough to provide lay person instructions to fix this? It would be nice to get this set back on playing Columbo again.
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#97
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With the set unplugged you can also chase that power wiring problem with a DMM....If you have a DMM with beep mode on continuity and aligator clip leads you can hook it across a suspected intermitent wire/connection/switch/etc. and flex said suspected part and look for the beep of life to stop.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#98
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Since you posted while I was writing more info: If you have a spare cord you can try swapping it. You can also do a continuity check on the cord with a DMM. It is possible the cord is fine and the interlock bad, but cord problems are more common. If either cord or interlock is bad you will have to get a replacement for what is bad. There are ways to kludge normal cords on and defeat the interlock, but that is a really crappy way to do it (something to do only as a temporary solution while you hunt the right parts).
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#99
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Thanks guys. OK, definitely not the cord, tried a few different ones. I don't understand what's happening when I lift the set up and down to make it go on and off. I will have to keep searching.
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#100
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You might have a cold solder joint somewhere on the chassis. You could with a magnifier have a look at solder connections and look for really small cracks at any connection points. You are probably making connection when turning. You could also look at the solder connections on the switch itself and see if they look alright.
__________________
Sony Trinitron is my favorite brand. My wish list: Sony KV-7010U Sony KV-1220U |
Audiokarma |
#101
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The on/off switch on these just have 2 wires going to the rear
of the on/off/vc you can hook the two wires together & prove the switch good or bad. Now look at how the main chassis is built. Terminal strips soldered onto the steel chassis. The ends are soldered, sometimes they are soldered along the strip & and at most tube sockets. Those are used as common ground often. They do loosen up especially on certain chassis & cause int problems. This chassis wasnt known for it BUT it can happen. If you probe at them with a screw driver & they show a break resolder them. BTW this set has a simple SPST switch. Many others had gang switches with as many as 4 switches & 2 pots. Maggy & Admiral come to mind. Sometimes the switches were NO & NC. "Jumping" them out can get much more complex. 73 Zeno |
#102
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Thanks everyone for the help. Well, guys I don't know what to say. I tried everything. I was most excited about the cold solder joint theory as my soldering is sloppy and it made the most sense. It almost paid off, but then it didn't. I might just put this set on the backburner until I can meet some people who can help me in real life. For now, the '65 is more promising to work on.
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#103
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Nothing to do with the world shut down, resurrecting old thread.
1971 Zenith B/W 19inch - I recapped it as my first project and it was working flawlessly for hours on end. Later on, the on/off/volume switch became loose and the 'stick' which inserted into the switch fell out. I glued it back in but ever since then the set doesn't work for some unknown reason. I have no idea if that is related to my problem or a coincidence. The fact that I turn the switch on and the tubes light up, does this mean the on/off switch is not the problem? Where I'm at this morning - I opened it back up. Plugging it in and turning it on lights up the tubes but I get no sound or picture. It seems like electricity or voltage isn't even running through the thing. Not sure where to start. I know some people get annoyed with beginners and some people like helping beginners, but yeah, I need help! I gotta get this thing going again! I'm gonna go bust out my old repair books and search this forum but if anyone is feeling charitable and wants to help please let me know. Thanks! |
#104
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On this set if the tubes are lit but its dead the switch is OK.
Look at the ground posts like mentioned in my prev post. Also get a long plastic stick & lightly push on things to narrow down the area the problem is in. After that you will need a schematic & meter but it should be easy to find. good luck Zeno LFOD ! |
#105
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Quote:
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Audiokarma |
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