#16
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Yes it would be nice to collectively put together a database to make the tester more useful for all. I took a look at the 121 schematic, but I doubt there is enough information to try to reverse engineer it and come up with card designs from tube specifications.
Dave |
#17
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Not sure about the 121, but you can develop your own test cards for the 123 and 1234, and the different variations on these, including the military AN/USM-118. I have the Western Electric variant (KS-15874-L2), and the instruction manual has explicit instructions on how to make up a custom test card given a basing diagram and basic tube specifications. Mine came with a good supply of the blank cards and the hole punch. I don't have the "full" set of test cards, but most of the ones that I am missing are the "later" types, mostly series string stuff. |
#18
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I just picked up about 140 more cards for the 121. Mostly series string stuff in the 2-5 filament volt range. That's cool because I mostly do TV tube testing, but I'd really like the 6 volt cards too. Luckily, I do have some overlap like a 5BR8 / 6BR8 or 3CB6 / 6CB6. There only seems to be a two hole difference between them. I figure I can use those like a Rosetta stone to decode the filament holes.
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#19
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I took a shot at trying to figure out the correspondence between the punched holes and their function. Maybe what it did before I quit will help you some. Attached are PDFs of four pages of the punch card switches and their function.
Dave Last edited by Zenith6S321; 02-22-2015 at 06:52 PM. |
#20
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And here is the 121 schematic.
Dave Last edited by Zenith6S321; 02-22-2015 at 06:52 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Thanks for the info Dave.
Here's what I've figured out so far by comparing cards to the schematic. I think you were off by one with your FIL1 & FIL2 chart, Filament voltage A9 - K9 = 0.1's B11 - K11 = 1's A16 - G16 = 10s 2BN4 - H11 (2) + G9 (0.3) = 2.3 v 3BN4 - H11 (2) + A9 (0.9) = 2.9 v 3CB6 - A11, D11 (3) + J9 (0.1) = 3.1 v (this one is a bit odd, why not use H11 + J9 ?) 4CB6 - F11 (4) + H9 (0.2) = 4.2 v 6CB6 - D11 (6) + G9 (0.3) = 6.3 v Last edited by bandersen; 03-06-2013 at 09:38 PM. |
#22
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I picked up an RCA, card type tube checker, for a buck.
It's novel, but kind of a useless piece. Some of the cards were home-punched. A lot of the tubes, I normally use, I don't have a card for. Plus, it only has four sockets, Octal, loctal, seven pin and nine pin. Built really well, but just a novelty, at best. |
#23
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Is it a WT-110A ? It's actually a pretty good tester. Like the Hickok, it uses mutual conductance. Here's one that sold for $250.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-WT-110A-...-/150999237542 |
#24
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When testing it out, I thought it was better than the simple emissions testers. It's an interesting piece, to be sure. |
#25
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Have Cardmatic 121 Cards
I am new to this group, but also a 121 Cardmatic owner (plus many other tube testers), and mine seems to have a very large card inventory (takes several boxes to hold them all). My main interest is industrial and audio tubes, not TV tubes, so if anybody needs a specific card, I am happy to search for it, and send you the details, or the card if it's not one I require. Anybody got a full manual PDF available?
all the best, walter sphere research corp. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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Hi Walter. Welcome to Videokarma
I could be persuaded to scan my manual in exchange from some cards scans or details. I'll try to come up with some TV tubes I need cards for, but in the meantime I'd love to get some more early radio tubes like: 24A, 27, 37, 30/44, 42, 45, 47, 71A, 75, 78. I think that would cover all my late 20s - mid 30s radios. |
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