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Don’t know if this will help Tim but there might be an issue with the CRT socket at pin 2. When I was troubleshooting the video loss I noticed the full screen raster I had collapsed when I moved the tube in such a way that the wire going to pin 2 got flexed at an angle approaching 90 degrees to the socket. That’s why there’s heat shrink on it to stiffen it up. I’m just throwing that out there in case there’s some issue with that connection when the CRT gets warm. I can’t remember if the vertical collapsed to a horizontal line or the screen went dark when this happened. In any case, there may, emphasis on may, be an issue with the CRT socket at pin 2 connection.
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No, it's not a run change. That cap needs to be there. I suspect you just found the problem.
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Yes I found it but I still looking for the reason why if I use vertical size to widen the screen up and down sometimes it goes and other times it don’t but it’s got vertical lines on the bottom and some on top but very unstable it rolls but it does stop with the hold pot this almost seems to be a bad cap or wrong cap I don’t know. The .004 cap was replaced with a .0047 I wouldn’t have put that in since the .004 is available. Oh and I reversed the 1n34 diode and got a perfect picture except for the lines and instability in vertical. I thought I had a decent picture befor I reversed the diode but now it’s perfect now have to figure what’s going on with vertical.
Last edited by timmy; 04-28-2023 at 04:36 PM. |
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Audiokarma |
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Just forget it! I even confused myself, when I read what I wrote!
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I just got one of these working last night. Maybe this video will inspire? https://youtu.be/WiFyS_SVpeM
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Audiokarma |
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Funny you mention RA103. You'll like my next video
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That’ll be great! I got the replacement relay but someone already did some “bodging” to get around it…but that’s for the other thread.
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Certain scenes the picture has lines across the top other scenes it disappears I wonder if it’s the 4 caps in the vertical or maybe a .005 cap.
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Hi Tim. The “cherry drops” capacitors in there are pretty cheap, Chinese knockoffs I got in a multi-pack kit off Amazon. I tested them before I soldered them in and they were in spec and not leaky but I’m wondering if changing them out would help. The Wima high voltage caps are the standard replacement caps for that area and should be ok. Then there’s the pesky resonance spring around the HV rectifier Bob messed with a video or two ago. I believe it is in the correct place but I’m suggesting whatever I can to help out!
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