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Yep, non-polarized film caps though, I just needed the right package style for pad placement and spacing. (Strangely the board layout icon is non-polarized but the schematic capture icon is...) If it were a polarized package style one of the pads for the caps would be square to indicate polarity. I'll have to play around with some of the other cap options and see what else is "not accurate."
As to why I'm going with a modern PCB style upgrade, the board will evolve over the next few weeks. I'm adding the ability to change the target voltage on the eye tube, and maybe one or two other things, including possibly adding a 1µF to "700"µF range. (700 only because that's the normal scale max of "70" x10, I honestly don't expect accuracy out of it, but I'll see what I can do.) The target voltage taps are for two reasons. First, to preserve the life of any eye tube by running it at a lower voltage that provides adequate brightness. (probably +160). Second, having higher taps (I'll go as high as +260) will allow one to use an already mostly worn out eye tube right down to the final nub of darkness. This considers a future where there are no NOS eye tubes available at any price, all have been used, some a lot more than others.
The process of testing these changes will be very ugly, but once a working system has been achieved, boards will be made, components attached, and wiring replaced with some new manufacture cloth-covered wire. The goal is to have an intelligent blend of old and new.
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07-11-2014, 10:14 AM
Hybrid Mode
