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  #196  
Old 07-14-2015, 10:07 AM
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I agree rust almost always comes back..... I like "rust-deferred" -Very good...
I have done a few spots - weld in new metal, metal-prep it etching primer,
then regular primer on top, then paint, and rust has not returned - yet.....

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  #197  
Old 07-14-2015, 06:36 PM
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The reason the welds look ugly under vinyl tops is because there was no reason to finish them if they were going to be covered. Standard practice back then.
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  #198  
Old 07-20-2015, 03:39 PM
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One good turn deserves another


I decided to try to fix some problems yesterday. I took the driver side door card off and found the NEW power lock motor I installed a few months back has went open (time to check if the vendor has a warranty)...


Next up was the window click issue. If rolled all the way up on roll down there would be a loud click that would resonate in the pane. I thought adjustments must have been off for it to do that, but after playing with adjustments and greasing it, no change. Then I focused on the plastic pane bracket and noticed the track on it was cracked...Some playing with it revealed that the top track crack was allowing the runner in the track to move too far up as the window closed and the runner was partially coming out of the bottom of the track when the window was closed. When opened from that state the runner would eventually pop back in LOUDLY. After a bit of musing I came up with a solution. There is a bolt above the crack in the track which (along with keeping the track from breaking worse than it was) allowed me to bolt in a piece of metal to keep the cracked piece of track from moving in the wrong direction that was causing the problems...I just had to make and install said piece of metal. It may not be the prettiest repair or the 'right' way (I'd probably need to find a parts car to fix it the 'right' way), but it works exactly as intended...The track is solid again, and no more clicking.


I also went after the radio and got the 8-track back up to speed/to stop scraping. That player seems to be the only one to like a Quadraphonic Swing tape after it was eaten by another deck, so I now have at least one quad tape with GOOD music to play in my car

As a sort of pleasant thank you while I was driving it last night after working on it, to charge the battery back up, for the first time since I've owned it the 'Miles to Empty' computer came on.


This afternoon I also noticed after it being parked overnight that the headlamp covers were half open, which surprised me since normally the engine vacuum drops with in 2-3 hours of the engine stopping, to the point those covers pop wide open.
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Last edited by Electronic M; 07-20-2015 at 03:44 PM.
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  #199  
Old 07-25-2015, 12:57 AM
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That feeling you get when you've probably quadruppled your gas milage....

....I've got it.

Three drives with the Miles to Empty computer working revealed that for every 1 mile of odometer increase it was drinking roughly 4+ miles worth of fuel.

My friend Chris decided to price out the parts for an ignition refresh, and at just over the cost of a tank of gas, and after examining a plug and the distributor I decided it was worth a try. I bought a new set of copper plugs (I considered Iridium, but those plugs alone would have cost about what everything cost using copper). We changed out the Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor (there are no points in my ignition system thanks to the Duraspark system). The last two on the list were substantially worn.

After the work the Miles to Empty computer was ticking off the miles in step with the odometer so unless that computer suddenly changed calibration it is safe to assume my mileage quadrupled. I have not yet calculated it (need to run it down 1/4 while clocking the miles), but assuming my last calculation (which IIRC was during a different state of carb tune than prior to the ignition work) was close to it's last poor-ignition value I've probably jumped from ~6MPG to ~24MPG....I tested it on stretch that was (prior to the work) consuming about 1/4 tank, after working on it that same stretch is barely moving the needle.

Best money I've spent on repairs/upgrades yet!
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Last edited by Electronic M; 07-25-2015 at 01:01 AM.
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  #200  
Old 07-25-2015, 06:36 AM
consoleguy67 consoleguy67 is offline
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If you have a 4bbl carb on that 460, as long as you keep your foot out of it, it won't do too badly on gas. I had a '77 with the 400/2bbl. It would do 25mpg on the highway if you didn't stomp on it.
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  #201  
Old 07-25-2015, 07:08 AM
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Your mpg est seems high.... Spot estimates are not near as accurate as writing down
the mileage and # gallons put in on a regular running basis, and doing the math....
It all comes down to physics, 4,000 lb car, 400+ CI motor 6~16 mpg is what I would
reasonably expect on average, running, not spot, and the gauges are for the most
part not linear..... The upper 1/4 on my mustangs always looked on spot checks
like I was getting 25~30 mpg on my modified but non VV carb....

For gas mileage on a standard 4V carb, doesn't that one have those screw in gas
jets at the bottom of the fuel bowel....? You probably got 54's or bigger....
47 is the smallest, and then they are brass, you could solder a wire and stick it
down the center to make the hole smaller..... I did it on my stangs, did a little....

Good work on the window guide.

On those miles to empty computers, you gotta check to see what the design idea
was, to try and guess if they are actually worth anything or not.....

.
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  #202  
Old 07-30-2015, 08:42 PM
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been a mechanic for well over 45 years.worked exclusively for fomoco.i saw many 429/460 engines.if tuned properly,these engines can produce excellent gas mileage with enormous power.25mpg on the highway is routine.18-20 intown is average.i once had a 69 ltd with a 429 4v.my highway mileage was always near 30 mpgs and intown around 21-22.cold ac,smooth ride and very comfortable.
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  #203  
Old 10-02-2015, 01:28 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Accidents happen....

At the beginning of the week I was going to visit a college acquaintance to acquire some RTR tapes. I got to the top of the exit and the right turn lane had it's own red light while sitting there I was putting away a charger, and someone came up behind and LAID ON THEIR HORN while the light was red (City drivers here are mostly crazy assholes, hence why I rarely go to the city). Startled, I assumed the honk was because the light had changed and I started to go (why else would someone be so damn rude?), but that was not the case and I realized and slammed on the brakes as I was entering the cross street....at the same time an suv was coming.....

The result: No one was physically harmed. The other driver's rear quarter has some small scratches and dents, and the rim of their wheel was damaged. I got the worst of it......If their wheel well had not hooked my bumper and pulled it forward I'd just be griping about dents and a turn signal lens, but in pulling it forward it ripped the piston out of one of the shocks that the bumper mounts to and tore the frame to shock bracket for the other bumper shock....I feel stupid for letting my self be startled/goaded into acting without due caution. The one behind me who startled me got nothing, but bad Karma, and my personal request to God that their rudeness gets them into as bad a situation as they caused me in the future.

After all the hullabaloo of reporting it, exchanging info etc. I strapped the bumper end that was unsupported due to the destroyed shock, proceeded a few blocks to my acquaintances house. There he loaned me a air wrench (using it made me wonder why I have not got one those yet) to get the bumper off so I would not have to worry about strap failure on the ride home, (and of course I got my RTR tapes).



Both bumper-shock to frame mounts are damaged. The failed shock limited the damage on the one to being bent, but the other where the the bumper hinged is torn/cracked and about as useless as the shock that ripped in two. Between the scratches, the dents/bends and the thick gauge of the bent part of the bumper I think it will never be the same.

I've got a pending deal with someone on CL for the bumper, it's shocks, and their mounts, as well as all the lights (except the head lights), much of the chrome, a set of the optional aluminum rims/caps (why not have a spare set?), and some other bits for ~ $300.

I was able to bend the signal fin back enough to pop most of the dent out today, and after the ETF meet I'll make that deal and than pop the light and try to get the dents completely out my self (if that fails I'll see a body shop).

This is probably going to eat up the rest of the savings I've been using for a long post college summer vacation....Guess it's time to start applying to some of those jobs the folks have been suggesting I apply to...

What I've learned from this experience: When prodded by impatient/rude drivers I'm not going change what I'm doing until I've decided I'm damn well ready. And avoid city driving....It is usually rough on my nerves.
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  #204  
Old 10-03-2015, 10:31 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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You're a new driver! The same thing happened to me! Three fender-benders in the first year, none my fault.
50+ years of driving and my defensive driving skills are rather good.
Going back that far, I didn't know about right-turn-on-red, that was legal in Illinois, but not here.
If you can drive in Chicago, you can drive anywhere.
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  #205  
Old 10-03-2015, 05:46 PM
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Sandy G Sandy G is offline
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I wanna say a couple of things about the '59 vs '09 Chevys. One, I really winced when I saw a CREAMPUFF 1959 Chevy being destroyed like that-As I'm sure most of you guys did, as well. Secondly, they KINDA "Cooked the Books" a bit, the '59 Chevy-well, ALL the 1959 GM cars had a "Wasp-Wasted" frame that gave Zero, Zilch, Zed protection in a crash, but allowed designers to lower the body so it Looked Better. They started going to the "X-Frame" in the 1957 model year, & used it til the 1965 model year. The point was well & truly made, however, that the older cars were pretty much "Death Traps" by comparison to modern cars.
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  #206  
Old 10-03-2015, 08:03 PM
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Sorry about your ride man.... My Mom's '79 Mercury LTD Wagon got hit once by
someone backing out of their driveway, Hit in rear, it spun around and the bumper
fell off right there at the back of where the car stopped, or so it seemed.... Everyone
was ok, and that's when we also discovered it had some shock absorber system
holding on the bumper.... We got very lucky, nothing was bent, it all slid back together
and after fitting it all to line up, a small push against a power pole and it all went back
together and was never a problem after that..... If the bumper did not stick out past
the body by 2 to 3" they probably would have missed the car entirely....

.
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  #207  
Old 12-10-2015, 08:53 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Back in mid October I managed to get and install a replacement bumper. A bunch of other parts came with it for the $300 I paid. I got a better set of all lamps except for the head lamps all the side glass (granted the 1977 it came off of had the power vent windows so the door glass won't fit mine), much of the chrome trim (including a small piece on the passenger a Pillar that mine was missing), nicer spare door handles, the plastic bumper fillers, the original compact spare mine was missing (+ duplicate tire changing kit), and the optional aluminum rims (which are made of light see picture).

Front plates are not mandatory here so I decided to delete the front plate and holder. Sure I could have kept it on and mounted my chewed up front plate, but I think the front plate throws off the visual symmetry of the front, and the car looks better without it. Here are some pictures.



Since it was unseasonably warm today I decided to troubleshoot the passenger door speaker....Which has been intermittent for the last month and a half, but mostly dead for the last month. Once I got into it I checked it's resistance...Wide open. Hooked an external tube amp to it, no sound. Turned on the car radio and connected a known speaker to it's terminals...It stayed silent, but the test speaker worked....He's dead Jim.
So I go to the auto parts store and get a $30 pair of 6.5" replacement speakers (might as well do the front pair for balance)....Jokes on me! That is too big, and the next size down is too small....Turns out good 'ol FoMoCo stamped the metal in the door for an odd ball 6.25" diameter round speaker to sink in to a shallow stamped well, and NO one seems to carry it....Also the modern ones tend to have tweeters inside that jut out well past the original and would prevent the door card and it's speaker grate from going on.....

I'm debating if I should order a 6.25" pair off the internet (and hope size is right and the center tweeters don't protrude), or fabricate mounts for a smaller pair (possibly made from the protective, center-perforated grates that were part of the original speakers to protect the cones from puncture)....I sure as hell ain't cutting up the door frame and or interior to mount those 6.5" speakers I bought!...

What are your oppinions?
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  #208  
Old 12-10-2015, 09:21 PM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Front plates are not mandatory here so I decided to delete the front plate and holder.
Are you sure? I was pulled over for that not too long ago.

http://www.dmv.org/wi-wisconsin/license-plates.php

"Wisconsin law requires:

2 license plates on most passenger vehicles, displayed on the front and back"

Also see: https://www.google.com/search?source...9i57.16277j0j7

.

Last edited by WISCOJIM; 12-11-2015 at 04:12 AM.
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  #209  
Old 12-10-2015, 10:57 PM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
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Nice car Tom. Kind of shocked of the mileage ya get out of such a large engine(and heavy car). I'm too used to 10-20 out of my vehicle's. ('01 Cherokee, '94 Burb, '87 Dakota, '90 Wagoneer) and they've got nowhere near the ci your engine has. I wonder what that 2v 351M in my 'future' Torino Wagon can get? That thing is still new....for being 39 years old!

Can you possibly get your speaker's rebuilt?
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  #210  
Old 12-11-2015, 11:06 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WISCOJIM View Post
Are you sure? I was pulled over for that not too long ago.

http://www.dmv.org/wi-wisconsin/license-plates.php

"Wisconsin law requires:

2 license plates on most passenger vehicles, displayed on the front and back"

Also see: https://www.google.com/search?source...9i57.16277j0j7

.
Guess I'm wrong on legal grounds.....My dad's Accord that was bought in Fl, has never had a front plate holder (or front plate installed), and in the 8 years and at least 2 times he's been pulled over up here the officers never bothered him about that....I've passed by a number of radar traps (slow enough not to get bothered), and squad cars at the local fast food joints since the bumper change/plate delete and I've not been bothered either.....I suppose I could keep the holder and plate in the trunk and come up with some innocent story if I meet a hard-ass.

Perhaps the speaker could be rebuilt, but that is probably going to cost upwards of $30, and I think if I make an adapter plate and use cheaper 4" speakers.....
The factory originals are pretty cheap looking anyway. Just a single shallow cone with paper suspension with little travel....I'm surprised that they can out shout my engine with (effectively) no muffler on the highway. If I use smaller drivers (the perforated opening in the cone protector, and door card opening are both smaller than 4") I'll keep the originals so they could be rebuilt in the future.
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