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RCA 8PCS41 from CL update
Well if I wasn't crazy already this should push me over the edge.
I found this locally while browsing Craigslist last night, it was obviously rough but I wasn't quite expecting this. I took my CRT tester with me because there was no way I was bringing this home if the CRT was bad, it turned out to be a GE replacement, it started off in the high red zone but after 10 seconds at 8 volts it shot up to high green and stayed there at 6.3 so I figure it has some life left in it, what the screen and mirror looks like is anyone's guess but I expect some screen burn, that won't hurt anything though. The main chassis is amazingly clean and rust free, it's well protected inside the cabinet, the only somewhat rusty dirty chassis is the main power supply, this was a Mouse House for quite some time and it got peed on. The inside of the HV cage was stuffed full of grass, obviously their home but it looks rust free for the most part an nothing looks chewed on so I think it'll be OK too. The cabinet...well it's a horrible mess, the good points are that nothing seems warped, it's complete except for the back, and the doors all open and close as they should and the panels look flat, the bad is that there's a lot of loose joints and bad Veneer, the front can probably be saved but everything else needs redone including some of the substrate material. The screen looks okay and it lifts and closes fairly smoothly. |
#2
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This will be a challenge on all fronts, but I hope you make it light up and play again.
Once you get everything working you'll be surprised at the picture it makes. A 25 inch diagonal picture was unheard of in 1949. Direct view sets that size didn't appear until 4 or 5 years later. From across the room it is bright and has good detail. Best luck! |
#3
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Eric:
Every TV collector needs at least one projection set in their collection! You will probably need to have the mirror resilvered and if you do I can give you the name of the place that did mine. Let me know if you would like a photocopy of the owners manual. Steve |
#4
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That's going to be a nice set when you get it restored. It has 4 separate chassis, and lots and lots of electrolytics and wax caps. The 5TP4 runs at about 24KV. The HV section has a tube tripler, which is kind of unique. Treat the canvas cloth shroud very carefully, as they become quite brittle and fall apart easily. I've got two RCA projection sets myself, and I had to have a reproduction shroud custom tailored for my second set, as my original literally fell apart in my hands. Look forward to seeing your restoration thread.
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#5
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Quote:
I would love a copy of the manual, I'll P.M. you with my address. Thank you. I took the cabinet to my back patio and sprayed a 50% mixture of Clorox in the cabinet and rinsed it out, it still has some globs of "stuff" stuck to the bottom but at least I feel a little better about the sanitation issues. The chassis's don't bother me so much, I can just take my time and do one at a time but the cabinet is daunting, I always seem to get held up on the cabinet because I don't like doing them and don't really have the tools to do much serious work. The cloth shroud on this one is in good shape, it doesn't seem to be at all rotted or brittle. Does anyone know how the HV Umbilical unhooks from the HV cage? It seems to slide out a little and stop, do I have to unscrew something from the underside to remove it? It's difficult moving the HV cage and the CRT barrel around together. |
Audiokarma |
#6
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Wow! Nice find That's going to be quite a project. Good luck
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#7
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The HV umbilical doesn't separate from the HV cage without unsoldering it from the third HV rectifier, and you can't get to it with the HV cage still installed in the cabinet. You need to separate the umbilical from the CRT/optics barrel instead. Unplug the CRT socket and the deflection yoke socket, remove the plastic cover at the top of the optics barrel, remove the yoke, unplug the second anode lead from the CRT and then remove the CRT. Be careful you don't lose the anode spring clip. The entire metal bracket that holds the CRT is connected to the HV and the spring clip connects them electrically. Once you have the anode lead removed, you can remove the HV umbilical by unscrewing the fitting at the side of the optics barrel and pulling the umbilical out. It took me a while to figure all this out on my first projection set.
http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=256597 http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=252908 Last edited by hi_volt; 03-23-2013 at 10:46 PM. |
#8
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When removing the HV cable from the optics barrel, make note of which side of the plastic lens is "up". If reinstalled upside down, you will not be able to focus the image on the screen.
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John Folsom |
#9
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A bit of good news with this set!
I took the CRT out so I could transport the parts to work to clean them up, the face of the CRT has ZERO screen burn so I'm guessing it's a very low hour tube. Also, even though it's branded General Electric, the EIA code is 274 so it was made by RCA. The mirror is nearly perfect! It had a little dead grass sitting on it but it didn't affect it at all. It's stamped with the serial number and it was made by Bendix Aviation. |
#10
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Wish you lived closer-We have a Furniture Restorer in this town that could make that cabinet at least as good as new...I've eused him a BUNCH of times, & he's NEVER failed to make something "Knock Yer Socks Off"...
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Benevolent Despot |
Audiokarma |
#11
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Hi John is there a difference in the clear lens?
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#12
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That projection TV cabinet has a classical look and will make a great looking TV.
I like the square cabinet pulls on yours over the other design that looks like bedroom furniture. Hope you continue this restoration thread. I too have a Philco 48-2500 and have dreamed of finding an RCA projection TV like yours. Carl
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CW 1950 Zenith Porthole - "Lincoln" |
#13
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I did some clean up on the various chassis today, they all came out remarkably nice, especially the HV cage which was full of dried grass where the Mice had made a home. There is almost no rust at all in that and just a bit on the power supply chassis.
I used purple cleaner and a brush and rinsed them with hot water, even the Flyback got a bath but I was careful not to let water get in the bottoms of the power transformers or on the paper Capacitor covers. I also didn't allow water to get in the big Focus pot in the HV cage. I baked them in the Oven tonight at 185 degrees for about an hour to dry, they won't be powered up for who knows how long so they'll be good and dry when they are. I also cleaned the projector barrel. |
#14
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I've washed off chassis's before to - even with a garden hose.
If you are careful like you described should be ok. Its nice to have a clean chassis to work on. Carl
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CW 1950 Zenith Porthole - "Lincoln" |
#15
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Here is an RCA 8PSC41 one like yours on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-RCA-...item27d1508306 Man. the wood grain in those cabinets are gorgeous. Yours will look like that too once you get the dirt and grime off it. Folks in the Radio Forum talk about the "treatment" - a simple way to bring out the beauty in wood without refinishing. Just clean the cabinet and the use the smooth NON-PUMICE non-gritty GoJo hand cleaner. Then follow with Johnsons Wax. Carl
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CW 1950 Zenith Porthole - "Lincoln" |
Audiokarma |
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