Mitsubishi WD-52725 DLP set curb find

[YamahaFreak]

Found this one at the end of the street. Owners were nice enough to leave the original remote with it, heh. It's very clean; looks like it saw infrequent use. It has the common 'rapidly flashing timer LED' issue. I replaced the four 16v 1,000 uF capacitors on the power supply board as instructed, but the problem persists. I do not see any other visibly bad caps on the power supply. On a side note-this TV is definitely put together differently. It's hard to get it apart!

[rca2000]

You must be a masochist...cause IF this is the set I think it is...you have a LOT of work left to do !!

If this set has most of the boards in a bunch of shields", then there are a number of capacitors that need replaced on THREE boards. The power supply...the "formatter" board and the "DM" board.

The other two boards are sandwiched together, on the right side of the shield box. There is a big connector that goes from the DMD board to the formatter board. you need to remove the shields around this and then seperate those two boards. There will be a number of 1000/16 or so capacitors on this board, near the top of it, IIRC. ALL of these need to be replaced. The same goes for the DM board behind it.

These sets are a BITCH to repair. we ALL hated to work on them in the mid-2000's , when they were still under warranty. A BIG reason was that..about 50% of the time... even when you replaced all of those caps--the set STILL did not work--or work for long.

If you have the time and patience--go for it. I no longer DO. I cut myself a lot of times on those damn shields !! I do not wish to do it any more.

[YamahaFreak]

Originally Posted by rca2000

You must be a masochist...cause IF this is the set I think it is...you have a LOT of work left to do !!

If this set has most of the boards in a bunch of shields", then there are a number of capacitors that need replaced on THREE boards. The power supply...the "formatter" board and the "DM" board.

The other two boards are sandwiched together, on the right side of the shield box. There is a big connector that goes from the DMD board to the formatter board. you need to remove the shields around this and then seperate those two boards. There will be a number of 1000/16 or so capacitors on this board, near the top of it, IIRC. ALL of these need to be replaced. The same goes for the DM board behind it.

These sets are a BITCH to repair. we ALL hated to work on them in the mid-2000's , when they were still under warranty. A BIG reason was that..about 50% of the time... even when you replaced all of those caps--the set STILL did not work--or work for long.

If you have the time and patience--go for it. I no longer DO. I cut myself a lot of times on those damn shields !! I do not wish to do it any more.

Yep, this is THAT set.

Sourcing and replacing the caps is a cakewalk--the bitch of it is actually getting those damn boards apart and out of the set! I can't figure out how to separate and remove the boards from that metal 'mass' in the lower left of the rear of the set.

[rcaman]

your asking for trouble i am afraid.

[YamahaFreak]

Originally Posted by rcaman

your asking for trouble i am afraid.

Hey, if it's just a bunch of caps, I've got more than enough time and resources :P

[mstaton]

Are you sure its worth it for a 720P DLP? I hated to even look at those. Most got thrown away because for the fact their a pain in the ass. That should be the model with the removable front speaker grille. silverish gray color(some are black)

[YamahaFreak]

Originally Posted by mstaton

Are you sure its worth it for a 720P DLP? I hated to even look at those. Most got thrown away because for the fact their a pain in the ass. That should be the model with the removable front speaker grille. silverish gray color(some are black)

For me personally, I think so. I'm currently using an intermittently functioning Samsung DLP that needs a DMD board, but this Mits has a better sound system, and, quite frankly, I think it looks better than the Samsung from a design standpoint. This set is black, but yes, it does have the nice removable speaker grille panel on the bottom. Says 'Medallion' on the bottom left corner. I figure all those caps will cost me less cash than the new DMD board. As for 720p, the only source I have that goes to 1080p is a Wii U, and I only have a couple games for that. I'm very happy with the 720p/1080i DLP screen quality, even 480p looks better than the LCDs I have used. I suppose I have a soft spot for DLP TVs too, I like the tech. Would love to own one of the utterly massive 92-inch Mits DLPs, one day...

[CoogarXR]

Those sets aren't bad to watch when they work. It's just one of those sets that bring the curses and bad memories out of any repair person that has ever worked on one.

Back when I was repairing sets for a living, my boss wouldn't let me spend very much time on any DLP. That era of Mitsubishi was very time consuming. We eventually would just turn them away.

[Geoff Bourquin]

It belongs on the curb.


For sure needs the 4 1000uf caps on the Formatter and DM boards. Then plan on somewhere between a few and about a hundred surface mount caps on those same boards. If you can do that without damaging some traces on the boards, you move on to taking the screen off, and cleaning a ton of dust off of the lens and mirrors.......you get to do that every 6 months or so.

Oh yeah. They have a noisy color wheel too. Metallic whirring noise. You get used to it after a while.

If you get this far without plunging an axe through it, you might find it is a pretty decent TV. I used one for about 3 years. Even with all of the work I did on it, it would occasionally go quirky on me. I finally got fed up.

[YamahaFreak]

Originally Posted by Geoff Bourquin

It belongs on the curb.


For sure needs the 4 1000uf caps on the Formatter and DM boards. Then plan on somewhere between a few and about a hundred surface mount caps on those same boards. If you can do that without damaging some traces on the boards, you move on to taking the screen off, and cleaning a ton of dust off of the lens and mirrors.......you get to do that every 6 months or so.

Oh yeah. They have a noisy color wheel too. Metallic whirring noise. You get used to it after a while.

If you get this far without plunging an axe through it, you might find it is a pretty decent TV. I used one for about 3 years. Even with all of the work I did on it, it would occasionally go quirky on me. I finally got fed up.

I can definitely deal with heavy dust and noisy color wheels, but SMT caps? EWWWW! I will go as far as replacing every standard capacitor in the set, but I'm just not confident enough in my abilities with SMT tech to replace large numbers of this type of component. Hopefully it won't come to that...but if it does, I'll end up just parting it out :/

[mpatoray]

Ironically a friend sent me a text about that same model of mitsu. I had fixed his about 2 years back, the lamp had exploded and I cleaned it all out and replaced the lamp. He said "It has all kinds of white spots on the screen" can it be fixed. I told him to go buy a new TV.

[YamahaFreak]

Originally Posted by mpatoray

Ironically a friend sent me a text about that same model of mitsu. I had fixed his about 2 years back, the lamp had exploded and I cleaned it all out and replaced the lamp. He said "It has all kinds of white spots on the screen" can it be fixed. I told him to go buy a new TV.

Funny you should mention that; as this set also had fragments of a broken lamp in the base, and the lamp in the set looks brand new and unused. The white dots sound like what happened with the DMDs in the Samsung HL61A750 etc. sets, one of which I am about to be given. I will replace the DMD in that one, and hopefully it will be a better set than both this Mitsu, and the older, smaller, Samsung HLN-series set I have!

[mpatoray]

If you want a good set go find a KD-34XBR960

[YamahaFreak]

Originally Posted by mpatoray

If you want a good set go find a KD-34XBR960

I'm set with my KV-40XBR800 as far as CRTs go.