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  #16  
Old 09-26-2017, 01:46 AM
centralradio centralradio is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIPS View Post
Almost like clockwork, a complete system appears on ebay.
The price is a little....eh....but the photos help to shed a tiny amount of additional information on the controller:

-The front panel of the controller is quite basic. The remote is not much better, but I wasn't expecting such things as direct frame access or jogging. Perhaps a "hidden feature"?
-The controller also goes by the name "Autochanger Commander". This currently results in several hits for other auctions for controllers not compatible with this unit.
-The controller has Channel 3/4 RF in and out
-The controller supports a "billbox" presumably the devices that accepts money to operate it if necessary. It can be turned off.
-The controller has a control line for the amplifier and its pitch and tone bending abilities.
-There is composite and stereo RCA outputs.
-The controller has the ability to control UP TO FOUR LC-V300 AUTOCHANGERS. IF you were insane enough to have four of them, that means you could cram a library of 288 double sided laserdiscs into your home theater/karaoke bar and never need to touch them.
I'm glad that popped up for you.They got high hopes with that price unless somebody desperate for a system.
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  #17  
Old 07-24-2018, 09:52 PM
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Good news!
A CO-V50 surfaced in Guam for the low price of $8.50 CDN, plus shipping (which was not that bad, suprisingly) - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/323348617061
This is the Japanese version of the Autochanger Commander and supports two autochangers. There is good reason to believe it will support the North American unit at the protocol level which is what I'm ultimately after.
It should arrive in a few weeks.

Last edited by MIPS; 07-24-2018 at 10:31 PM.
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  #18  
Old 08-11-2018, 09:29 PM
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At last! It's here!


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_8066.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_8067.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_8065.jpg

A bit of translating will be necessary but it's as I suspected inside: Ignoring the green PCB which is mainly handling audio and video there is a fairly normal power supply and a PCB that contained a microcontroller and an EPROM. Otherwise it's pretty empty inside and rather lightweight. Hookups on the back are for the audio effects mixer and optional coin acceptor.

I had a hunch that it would work no problem with these two seemingly North American autochangers and sure enough, plug them in and press the power button you get lights and the MAKE A SELECTION light blinks.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_8063.jpg

Curiously though if you make a selection and try to proceed it does nothing. Some of the clear plastic inserts on the buttons have fallen out and may be jamming the buttons. The front will have to be removed so they can be reglued.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_8064.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/IMG_1059.jpg

Unfortunately both autochangers have problems. Errors are indicated by a set of LED's inside the front cover. There's a guide on the cover indicating what the errors are and how to enter a simple service/test mode. One machine is complaining about no 24v. There's a fuse on the PSU that's melted so presumably there was an overload and it gracefully opened.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_8061.jpg


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_8062.jpg

The other one is a bit more interesting. You power it up and it immediately faults because the disc clamp in the player timed out. The test mode lets me manually actuate it and while it runs it's REALLY noisy. May need a bit of oil but my assumption is there's a bad switch somewhere. Edited: Nope. MAnual mode also tests the sensor and it's good, so it must of been stuck.


http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t/CGS_8068.jpg

Edited: Hmm. perhaps it's got a tiny amount of memory that retains the last fault and shuts the unit down until it's cleared? Once the fuse was replaced and 24v was found to be good it still complained it was bad. Replaced the power supply with the one from the other and the fault did not move. Put the cabinets in manual control and didn't see any issues.

Edited Edited: Right, so the commander responds to the following key sequence [DISC NUMBER; DISC SIDE; CHAPTER NUMBER]
So now I can get the commander to move to a disc and load it but playback is still weird. On one cabinet it will spin one side (and abort as soon as it's up to speed) but not the other. The other machine simply loads the disc and then does nothing. More research is required. Perhaps a cleaning?

Last edited by MIPS; 08-12-2018 at 01:49 PM.
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  #19  
Old 08-13-2018, 11:56 AM
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CoogarXR CoogarXR is offline
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I still have no answers, but I love that setup so much that I can't breathe.
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  #20  
Old 08-13-2018, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CoogarXR View Post
I still have no answers, but I love that setup so much that I can't breathe.
No kidding! With a BT modulator hooked up, a library of good movies and the right mods that could be its own autonomous TV station.
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  #21  
Old 09-15-2018, 11:46 PM
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The service documentation seems to indicate that the autochangers store their last reported errors internally. Resetting that memory must be performed before putting the units back into service by opening the door, holding the up and down buttons at once and powering the system on. When the indicator lamp blinks you close the door and the autochanger reinitializes.

With that fixed I figured out why I could not get both autochangers to work when connected. The service documentation indicates that changer 1 addresses discs from 01 to 72 and changer 2 from 201 to 272. As it turns out I only got the second unit responding then I used the range 301 to 372. The service documentation also mentions a "wired remote jig" that takes the place of the autochanger commander and allows for manual control of basic and enhanced player functions like play, stop, side, chapter select, frame search, fast forward.... I did not however find a depiction of this wired test tool or a part number but this is MUCH more promising than being stuck with the commander.

I am still unable to get either player to play a disc. I have however learned that the "BGV" mode when enabled reserves slots 71 and 72 in the first autochanger and supposedly plays whatever disc is in there when the system is idle.
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  #22  
Old 10-12-2019, 03:23 PM
TheKman TheKman is offline
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I found a Laserdisc changer as well.

Hello, I recently purchased a LC-V80TL, 250 lasedisc changer at a going out of business sale here in Japan. Like you, i can't find much information about it. Luckily, it works well, I'm just stuck with 250 foreign karaoke laserdiscs. I would be interested in sharing information for operation and such.
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  #23  
Old 10-19-2019, 12:15 PM
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MIPS MIPS is offline
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Single tower unit, same controller and you have all the additional karaoke support components including the coin acceptor and amplifier.
You are correct in that there seems to be no documentation but at least the manual for the controller should be the same.
Unfortunately I've had a server crash about two weeks ago and I do not have access to most of my data currently. I ended up spending something like $15 to buy a PDF copy of the manual online.
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  #24  
Old 10-20-2019, 08:12 PM
TheKman TheKman is offline
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Extra auto changer player.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg BE8FA089-8126-4DD1-893D-9197349FA6FE.jpg (59.5 KB, 17 views)

Last edited by TheKman; 10-20-2019 at 08:23 PM.
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  #25  
Old 11-09-2019, 12:19 AM
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Okay, here's the service manual. For those who want it I'll keep it up for a week and then for the sake of my dropbox bandwidth I will have to take it down, so grab it while you can! It's a 30mb pdf.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wbe2wsi7hh...00svc.pdf?dl=0
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  #26  
Old 05-19-2020, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MIPS View Post
Okay, here's the service manual. For those who want it I'll keep it up for a week and then for the sake of my dropbox bandwidth I will have to take it down, so grab it while you can! It's a 30mb pdf.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wbe2wsi7hh...00svc.pdf?dl=0
Greetings, programs. I'd like to slip into this conversation. I recently acquired an LC-V300 and I'm fairly ecstatic over it. The problem, though, is that it is dead. No power whatsoever. Here's what i've done:

I removed the ACRY unit and examined it. According to the service manual, there should be 120VAC at the transformer connection, but I am only measuring 47VAC. So, I started looking at individual components (which are practically impossible to find today, though I did just find yesterday a 25 pack of the KC103P capacitors on eBay). The capacitors appeared to test ok. The relay, when i plug the board into the wall, did not click, however I did desolder it and manually connected it to my motorcycle battery and it at least did click then (Ive ordered a replacement that matches the pin layout and the specs, minus the TV rating). I desoldered the diode and it tested ok.

I then desoldered the induction coil (L50 on the board) and it tests at or around zero, which indicates it is bad. So, my question is how do I determine what an adequate replacement part would be for it? There are no specs marked on it, only what appears to be a part number which turns up zilch in a google search. The service manual does not list this part for the ACRY unit, but it DOES list a filter (denoted as F50 in the manual, despite the fact there is NO F50 on the board), so I was thinking maybe this was a typo because an induction coil can be considered a filter. so, the service manual lists this "filter" as part number DTF1012.

At pacparts they have a listing for that part, and the order page for it says it is not in stock, but is available for order. I ordered the part yesterday morning, but today was issued a refund because **surprise!!** the part isn't ACTUALLY available.

So, I'm stuck and at a loss. Do any of you have any suggestions?
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  #27  
Old 05-19-2020, 06:50 PM
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MIPS MIPS is offline
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If I am remembering inductors correct, a resistance at or right next to 0 is fine.
I'd be verifying that it's not the transformer at fault as you know the wrong voltage is comping out of it, but you didn't say what was going in. I believe the tap numbering is listed in the service manual.

Also verify your entire bank of fuses are good with a continuity check. Sometimes when I get weird voltages on a feed circuit it's a cartridge fuse that's gone bad.
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  #28  
Old 05-20-2020, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIPS View Post
If I am remembering inductors correct, a resistance at or right next to 0 is fine.
I'd be verifying that it's not the transformer at fault as you know the wrong voltage is comping out of it, but you didn't say what was going in. I believe the tap numbering is listed in the service manual.

Also verify your entire bank of fuses are good with a continuity check. Sometimes when I get weird voltages on a feed circuit it's a cartridge fuse that's gone bad.
Thank you for the reply! Based on my reading, a reading below 1 (which in the case of this inductor, it is at or slightly above zero) means a bad inductor. But I'm willing to take other advice on that. I did not test the transformer. I only tested the output on the ACRY unit board on the posts where the transformer connects. The service manual shows there should be 120VAC there, but I only read 47VAC. So, that's 47VAC going INTO the transformer.

I have not checked all fuses on every board, but only the one fuse on the ACRY board. Continuity on that fuse checks OK.

I attached an image. The posts in the red square are where I tested and showed 47VAC rather than the 120VAC as stated. That CN550 connection is where the transformer attaches.
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File Type: png ACRY_Unit.PNG (56.8 KB, 8 views)

Last edited by cornponious; 05-20-2020 at 01:24 PM.
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  #29  
Old 05-20-2020, 01:32 PM
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cornponious cornponious is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIPS View Post
If I am remembering inductors correct, a resistance at or right next to 0 is fine.
I'd be verifying that it's not the transformer at fault as you know the wrong voltage is comping out of it, but you didn't say what was going in. I believe the tap numbering is listed in the service manual.

Also verify your entire bank of fuses are good with a continuity check. Sometimes when I get weird voltages on a feed circuit it's a cartridge fuse that's gone bad.

And here is the inductor in question. I can't even find any information online for how to determine the inductance of this coil, regarding the specific text on the side. Nothing I have found seems to match the type of text on the inductor. And there are no other markings anywhere on this inductor. It's very confusing to me.
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  #30  
Old 05-20-2020, 06:42 PM
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Holly smoke! You got yourself a LaserDisc changer?
I thought that you "Nationa/N.C.R." Class 52 cash register was something, but this is really mindblowing. Hope you will make it work.
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