#31
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Upholstery really isn't hard either.... You'll be amazed at how the seats are put together
once you take one apart. Final prep is one of the trade names for that cleaner. I guess you have visited a paint supply house..... Or done some reading.... 600 - 800 paper is best for the kinda stuff you are doing. Wet sanding is mostly so you get the stuff off the paper as it quickly gets clogged.... At first you said you were using some rattle clear I assume that is like the stuff you get at the Blue store, or the Orange store, good on any surface even wood. So it will do different things than regular car clear. The stuff is most likely chemically different. Car base/clear are meant to bond to some degree, and you have a time window when you can put the clear over the base, wait too long and you have to sand, then re-base before you clear. One nice thing about new base/clear is that after you spray the base, you can tack before you shoot the clear, and you can even tack between clear coats. It don't sound like much, but for painting outside its like a gift from the Gods. Centari use to stay tacky for quite a while and collect bugs like crazy.... Very frustrating for outside painting under a tent.... Your doing well enough just watch a video on YT about fixing dents with Bondo, it ain't expensive, and the cheap stuff is the same as the gallon can at the body shop supply. I think you can do it.... I'm impressed at the quality work you have done so far. . .
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" Last edited by Username1; 08-06-2014 at 09:05 PM. |
#32
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I've been around people who might be desperate enough to get high in such a way.
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#33
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many moons ago I painted a car outside (well in a barn actually) with enamel. I like working with it but yea the bugs were killer, fly lands and does the back stroke and you just have to sit there and watch it.
I have been using the duplicolor base/clear in the spray cans for this project. |
#34
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Quote:
And one of those Chinese hand fans for the flies with curiosity but no landing gear down yet... I think the first car I did on the grass, from then on I put a tarp on the ground too, as most of the little flies seemed to be in the grass area too..... The second car came out much better than the first.... .
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" |
#35
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I tried flicking him out, just pissed him off and then he went in circles. I got to the point where I would just let them croak in there and sand them out then buff and wax, mostly leaving just tiny bits. fun days.
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Audiokarma |
#36
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nearly heat stroked out today, but got a driver side seat switch, man it was hot, got a spare as well. the set goes forward easy but you have to fiddle ALOT to get to go back. Picked up some parts that were on a 94 that look to be part of the air daming of the radiator to keep the hot air from getting back to the front of the condenser. Had the whole as replaced about 13 yrs ago, don't know if the tech that did it put in the foam sides that also keep the hot air out, but it was not there, not even any bits, so got some foam to seal that up as well.
Its working well now, but next time it needs service I am doing it myself. |
#37
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got the seat switch in, power seat now works as it should woo hoo. Slowly but surely I am getting everything fixed on this old truck.
to do list: brake line (slight kink done years ago in Mast cyl replacement, I have a bent line from a junker) fan and fan clutch foam surround the AC condenser air dam corrections to 134a specs (still have R-12 but planning ahead) hood light driver side door panel light driver side seats (the top us attached with a zipper so should be easy to remove for repair of the leather) driver side bottom will wait for cooler days but at least I know how to remove the seat, easy now that I can move it fore and aft. headliner paint that should get it back to as like new as possible. The drive line is solid, has a rebuilt trans and the motor run very smooth no oil or coolant loss. The only real prob is a very slow rear main bearing leak that I will just have to live with. I would like to get another 20yrs out of it. |
#38
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Dave,
If you are still running R-12 in the Exploder's A/C system, I have a case of the 12oz cans if you're interested a few to top it off. If it's not leaking too badly, you might be able to hold off on the R-134A conversion a few more years? They sell R-12A now, but I don't think you can mix it in with R-12; someone else may know. Also, my take has been that R-12 systems have always seemed to cool better than the newer refrigerants. Also, even if the A/C system is working fine, it still may be low on refrigerant. Tom (PK) Last edited by powerking; 08-11-2014 at 08:44 AM. Reason: My bad sentence writing & correction |
#39
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I am kind of on the fence about the AC, right now its working fine, but it is 13yrs old since the last major overhaul. In Florida its all about the AC since its used pretty much year round. With that in mind I am will to spend for the best possible system.
I have been doing some research and it seems the parallel flow condenser and evaporators are the most efficient and best for use with 134a. I don't know if they would make a R-12 work any "better" So when the day comes to rebuild (say a comp breakbreak down) I was thinking of going with the P flow parts, maybe do some research on optimal orifice tube size (or thermal controlled expansion valve) for the extreme heat of florida, and use a oil compatible for both 12 and 134 (PAO?) and try R-12, and if the supply of R-12 ever dries up completely I could just change to 134a and not sweat the componets or oil. |
#40
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DAve,
I have over 90 lbs of virgin R12 and I am not that far from you. Keep your vehicle R12 if at all possible. In order to chabge to R134a properly, it is expensive to say the least. |
Audiokarma |
#41
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You should stay with 12...... It's available, and compressors can be rebuilt...
And A/C stuff can be learned and you can do it.... Listen to gunslinger & Powerking.... Worst case you first use a r-12 replacement before going to a 134 conversion.... In a few years 134 is going to be phased out too..... .
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Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" Last edited by Username1; 08-17-2014 at 09:51 AM. |
#42
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thanks for the input guys. The plan now is to just use it for as long as its cooling well, then will look into at a min, replace the dryer and check the orifice tube for junk. If that is ok I would replace the orings (assuming they are the cause of any leaks) dryer/tube and recharge. The only question I have now is should I consider a VOV, a blue or a red.
the VOV has been discussed by those that have done the conversion, the blue is I think the stock, the red is a .062 smaller than the .067 blue. The idea being would a smaller orifice benefit the mostly in town driving I do (low speed, lots of idling). The VOV "shoud" be able to handle both, but the reports on it have been all over the place. |
#43
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do not use a VOV unless you drive your vehicle to deliver mail, house to house. Keep the factory orfice tube in there. If relacing anything, check th fan clutch. Even if the rediator is cooled ok, it may not work fine for the AC.
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#44
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new fan (old had cracks) and new fan clutch (hayden severe duty) will be installed soon. I had to wait for another fan as the one I ordered arrived with a broken blade. It is a 10 blade unit.
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#45
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got a new center arm console.
also got a nice seat to replace the driver side that is cracked and worn. The replacement is a pass seat so I will have to figure out how to make that happen. |
Audiokarma |
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