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  #16  
Old 08-20-2013, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinCanAlley View Post
Well there are two (coil and pot) that work together to move the horizontal blue up and down from center towards the top and bottom of the screen. Then there's another pot that works with the coil just mentioned that adjusts the horizontal lines on the left and right sides of screen. Their interaction has to be going wrong somewhere as the red and green lines meet up on the sides.

The thing is, the compromise I've made is to allow the right and left to look like crap so I can get the center to look good since it's the main viewing area.
If the center goes off at any time, you need to readjust the static convergence. The goal of the dynamic controls is to make the colors all be parallel all over the screen. You should always finish by adjusting the static controls for absolutely perfect center convergence.
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  #17  
Old 08-20-2013, 07:23 AM
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on this model there should be another coil for blue convergence.i believe it is a smaller one,that controls the blue centering.i am almost positive on this one.
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  #18  
Old 08-20-2013, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sampson159 View Post
on this model there should be another coil for blue convergence.i believe it is a smaller one,that controls the blue centering.i am almost positive on this one.
Yes, there is a blue convergence magnet (with adjustment) and a blue lateral (with adjustment).
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  #19  
Old 08-20-2013, 11:46 AM
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The center could use a little touch up, but until I can fix the sides, it's not of great importance.

I started wondering if it's really the blue that's the issue. What if the blue lines are where they're supposed to be and the red and green are off? They seem to interact with each other quite a bit, so if a pot is bad, maybe it's affecting them. Of course I have no way of knowing all this until I get the scope (which I hope to get today). If I get the scope I might be posting the model and some pics and asking for assistance in the settings.
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  #20  
Old 08-20-2013, 12:15 PM
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small problems at the center get worse at the edges, you need to always check and touch up the center static as you make dynamic adjustments, it does not take much.

That being said the pic you posted shows more that the typical problem with blue.
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  #21  
Old 08-20-2013, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
small problems at the center get worse at the edges, you need to always check and touch up the center static as you make dynamic adjustments, it does not take much.

That being said the pic you posted shows more that the typical problem with blue.
I hate trying to do the center convergence. It says to use the dots for it, but the dots are so fuzzy and I expect a pure white dot. I know this isn't possible, but my brain is so picky most of the time it keeps me tweaking it.
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  #22  
Old 08-20-2013, 12:49 PM
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really important to turn brightness down (is this that same set?) setup the focus to get as small a dot as possible, setup in a dim light. Use a hand held mirror standing behind the set dont shock your self to get the center and adj the static. you hold the mirror up close to the screen center while standing behind and adj the magnets.

Its a PITA to do it this way but its the only as you need to get a real close look as you go.
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  #23  
Old 08-20-2013, 04:45 PM
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sorry,i forgot it was flat chassis.vertical sets have a smaller coil that moves the blue horizontal centering.
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  #24  
Old 08-21-2013, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
really important to turn brightness down (is this that same set?) setup the focus to get as small a dot as possible, setup in a dim light. Use a hand held mirror standing behind the set dont shock your self to get the center and adj the static. you hold the mirror up close to the screen center while standing behind and adj the magnets.

Its a PITA to do it this way but its the only as you need to get a real close look as you go.
Yeah, it's the same set. I think I should get the G2s set properly before I do the center convergence again. I have a full size mirror, but are you saying I should put one hand on the convergence knob, lean over the top of the set and look into a hand mirror that's up close to the screen? How about a magnifying mirror up close to screen and I stand behind the TV and adjust? Or will the magnifying mirror distort the dot?
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  #25  
Old 08-25-2013, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sampson159 View Post
sorry,i forgot it was flat chassis.vertical sets have a smaller coil that moves the blue horizontal centering.
Here is a pic showing the convergence board and it's plug. I don't know why they bothered with a plug since removing the board would also involve unsoldering the convergence magnet wires. Quick disconnect means nothing if it's only half of the wires involved.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Internal Chassis convergenc small (3).jpg (87.5 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg Internal Chassis Small (2).jpg (95.6 KB, 35 views)
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  #26  
Old 08-25-2013, 07:01 PM
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The plug is so that you can easily remove the chassis.

Just in case you don't know, you can remove the convergence panel, and mount it flipped up so that the controls are facing the front of the set for easier access.
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  #27  
Old 08-26-2013, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy View Post
The plug is so that you can easily remove the chassis.

Just in case you don't know, you can remove the convergence panel, and mount it flipped up so that the controls are facing the front of the set for easier access.
Yep, I learned that from my brother. I said to him I thought it was an odd way to mount the controls and he said to flip it up so I can easily adjust while in front of the set. I was so busy wondering why it was mounted there I never thought about it being functional with a little movement.

I get it. You can take the chassis out and work on the bench. I've been flipping her over and it works for me. If I had a business going, I'd sure go the removal route.
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  #28  
Old 08-26-2013, 11:56 AM
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If I jumper the terminals of a convergence pot while it's turned all the way down, there shouldn't be any movement of the lines, right? I would like to do a little testing of the pots on the board and figured I'd jumper the terminals of each pot and see how it responds. Then I'm going to run them through their full range (un-jumpered) and see what kind of range they have on the screen. I'll finish it off by giving the pots another deoxit and fader lube session. Once that's complete I'll try the convergence procedure over again, starting with the center convergence.

Can a pot be accurately measured while still connected? If I connect to the terminals and turn the pot, can I expect a close to accurate readout? If so, should I be looking for a full range (0 to stated ohm value), or do they not zero out fully CCW?

I figure if something is wrong with one of the pots, this should help me determine.
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  #29  
Old 08-26-2013, 04:55 PM
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Okay, did another cleaning with deoxit on all the pots and followed up with Fader Lube to keep them lubricated. I then tested each pot and found one that makes a clicking sound at full CCW and you can also feel it. I checked the resistance across the tabs and it was much lower than the other two pots of the same resistance (120ohm). Two showed that value, but this one only showed about 23ohm. When I connected to the wiper, the other two pots showed 1.2 to 123. This one started at 1.8, when to 27.9 and then started to drop back down to 2.8 and never go anywhere near it's value of 120.

I tracked down an NOS pot and will be purchasing it long with the R/G vertical lines right coil. It is seized in the position left from last adjustment.

I'm attaching pics of the current convergence I've achieved. I think with the pot replaced and the new coil, I should be able to tweak it to make it better. I know perfect is not possible, but I'm pretty close to a convergence I can live with.

Thanks to many here, I'm almost there!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg New Convergence Small(3).jpg (49.8 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg New Convergence Small (4).jpg (55.4 KB, 38 views)
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Last edited by TinCanAlley; 08-26-2013 at 06:06 PM.
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  #30  
Old 08-26-2013, 09:42 PM
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this is as good as your going to get.all my zeniths look about like this too.turned out very nice.you will never,ever achieve absolute perfect convergence.from about 5-10 feet away,it will look perfect.nice job and now sit back,relax and enjoy this masterpiece!
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