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  #46  
Old 01-27-2016, 08:03 PM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
Restoring an admiral c322
 
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Noticed that the chroma tint drifts while the set is warming up. Maybe I should do a AFC color alignment?
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RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
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  #47  
Old 01-27-2016, 11:00 PM
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Went ahead and did some color AFC alignment. Tint shifting has become a lot less noticeable and I rarely have to adjust anything now. This picture is looking as good as the CTC-7!
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  #48  
Old 01-28-2016, 05:03 PM
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Should I still check the HOT current even though I installed a 120mm fan on a fabricated metal cover I made? The fly gets warm to the touch but not too hot after being on for 45mins to an hour.
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  #49  
Old 01-28-2016, 05:20 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Should I still check the HOT current even though I installed a 120mm fan on a fabricated metal cover I made? The fly gets warm to the touch but not too hot after being on for 45mins to an hour.
Does not matter (even if the set does not need the current checked) it should ALWAYS be checked when you get a set and the linearity/efficiency coil adjusted for minimum current.
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  #50  
Old 01-28-2016, 05:22 PM
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What current level is considered safe for a CTC-5?
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  #51  
Old 01-28-2016, 07:25 PM
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There's no hard and fast number for any set, you adjust for minimum reading on the meter.
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  #52  
Old 01-28-2016, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
What current level is considered safe for a CTC-5?
As miniman said you want min current in operation, BUT there is usually a safe(ish) max that is published in the sam's for most sets (usually in the horizontal adjustment procedure). If over max after warm up assume something is wrong.
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  #53  
Old 01-28-2016, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
As miniman said you want min current in operation, BUT there is usually a safe(ish) max that is published in the sam's for most sets (usually in the horizontal adjustment procedure). If over max after warm up assume something is wrong.
From where do I measure the current? Manual says the h out tube fuse holder is where the current can be measured I hooked up my 27fm and I am not getting anything....
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  #54  
Old 01-28-2016, 10:04 PM
Bill R Bill R is offline
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Be sure the probes are connected properly to the meter to measure current. Also remove the H out fuse and put the probes on the fuse connections. You want the lowest current, but it should never go above 210ma. If it is over 200ma I would look for other problems. HO current should always be the first thing you check.
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  #55  
Old 01-29-2016, 04:23 PM
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When the HV just comes up I get about 179 ma after about 4 seconds it starts jumping around I go from 400ma to 900ma and it just keeps jumping around... What is going on?
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  #56  
Old 01-29-2016, 10:13 PM
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miniman82 miniman82 is offline
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Your meter sucks. This is why I always just read milivolts across a 1 ohm resistor inserted from the cathode pin to ground or wherever, takes the guesswork out. Most of my sets have one permanently installed, in a spot where I don't have to remove the chassis to get at it.
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  #57  
Old 01-29-2016, 11:20 PM
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Holding at 230ma. Went to adjust it and the slug is frozen in the coil. How do I free it up without removing the chassis from the cabinet?
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  #58  
Old 01-30-2016, 12:16 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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If 230 ma. is a correct reading it's gonna cook the H.out tube in short order. It ain't too easy on the flyback either.
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  #59  
Old 01-30-2016, 02:54 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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You free the slug by trying to turn it while heating the coil with a heat gun or hair dryer, or if the lin coil wires are reasonably thick and your adventurous you could hook a "D" cell battery across the lin coil and let the battery heat it like I did successfully on my CTC-4. Wax melt is likely what is holding it.
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  #60  
Old 01-30-2016, 11:15 AM
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The lowest I can get it is 220ma which is OK according to the service manual. What do you guys think?
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