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  #16  
Old 08-04-2017, 07:31 PM
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old_tv_nut old_tv_nut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjukebox160 View Post
It does indeed look like getter flash in the base of the tube.
That seems like a very strange location. My rebuilt GE tube has nothing like that, but of course rebuilt means it could have been flashed completely differently from the original.
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  #17  
Old 08-04-2017, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_tv_nut View Post
That seems like a very strange location. My rebuilt GE tube has nothing like that, but of course rebuilt means it could have been flashed completely differently from the original.
I have seen it in only one other 21ax and that was the one in Ben Moyer's colorcaster.
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  #18  
Old 08-04-2017, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjukebox160 View Post
It does indeed look like getter flash in the base of the tube.
It may be just evaporated metal from the 3 heaters... IIRC the getters are in the neck, closer to the screen.

Found a pix... there are 6 stirrup getters arranged in a circle toward the screen from the convergence pole pieces. There are no getters near the base.



Sorry about the poor contrast.

Update: found an article with a better pix of the gun assembly.

http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/R...-Kinescope.pdf

jr

Last edited by jr_tech; 08-05-2017 at 12:34 AM. Reason: add pix, add link
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  #19  
Old 08-05-2017, 11:36 AM
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Thumbs up

Ok here are the official tests on the CRT. The tube tests NOS! This has to be one of the best testing CRTs I've ever seen!
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File Type: jpg Red.jpg (52.7 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Green.jpg (51.9 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Blue.jpg (50.5 KB, 28 views)
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2017, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Ok here are the official tests on the CRT. The tube tests NOS! This has to be one of the best testing CRTs I've ever seen!
That TV either was not used much by its former owner(s), or else the CRT you tested is a replacement for the original tube. I cannot believe a 50-60 year-old CRT can be in such good condition. The set may have been used by a little old lady who only watched it, at most, once a week or less, and had the original tube replaced in the '60s-'70s.
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  #21  
Old 08-05-2017, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
I cant seem to find the getters on the 21ax. I know they are normally located in a slot on the neck near the end of the gun assembly, but I cant seem to find it. I do see what looks like silver getter material in the base though near the heaters of the guns. Were the getters ever placed inside the base of the tube rather than on the end of the gun?
The 21AXP22A in my 21CT55 looks the same. There is a picture of it in post #81 of the thread:
http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=257587&page=6

Mine has a date code of 5704, about 8 weeks after your date code. It also tested good and makes a nice picture. My avatar is a picture from that set. I say don't worry about the CRT until you get the set operating well enough to get a raster. Nice save!

Dave

Last edited by Zenith6S321; 08-05-2017 at 08:52 PM.
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  #22  
Old 08-05-2017, 09:21 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
...I do see what looks like silver getter material in the base though near the heaters of the guns.
A couple of questions - When you had the tester on it and got those unusually 'good' high readings, were the heaters glowing a nice healthy orange?

If not, was the neck around the gun area getting really, really hot really fast?
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  #23  
Old 08-05-2017, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
A couple of questions - When you had the tester on it and got those unusually 'good' high readings, were the heaters glowing a nice healthy orange?

If not, was the neck around the gun area getting really, really hot really fast?
Seemed like the typical orange glow. Got really hot after about 10 mins. Hope it's not gassy?
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  #24  
Old 08-05-2017, 10:06 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Seemed like the typical orange glow.
That's good. It's under vacuum. (If a jug has gone to air, the heaters won't glow, but the neck gets sizzling hot in half a minute due to conduction.)

Quote:
Got really hot after about 10 mins.
That would be normal.
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  #25  
Old 08-05-2017, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
That's good. It's under vacuum. (If a jug has gone to air, the heaters won't glow, but the neck gets sizzling hot in half a minute due to conduction.)


That would be normal.
Awesome! It should display a beautiful picture then.
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  #26  
Old 08-06-2017, 03:12 PM
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I do intend to document almost everything I do while I restore this set both cosmetically and electrically. I am doing this to use it a reference and as a step by step series of the restoration of this set due to how rare it is. Next I decided to get the latex paint specks off of the tuning knob. It was a lot harder to remove the paint on the knob than it was on the cabinet due to the risk of harming the fragile plastic. I soaked the affected areas in olive oil to loosen up the paint and then used a pencil eraser to remove as much as I could. As you can see, I wasn't able to get all of it off, but it looks a whole lot better than it did.
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  #27  
Old 08-06-2017, 04:02 PM
walterbeers walterbeers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
Very nice. And if you save those bumble bee pulls and sell them on eBay, you might just pay for the set......

http://www.ebay.com/itm/585-Sprague-...p2047675.l2557

Those audiophiles....
Gee $50-$100 for bumble bee and wax caps? Most always they are bad, leaky, or way off value. When I get a TV or radio with those in it I replace them with modern types. Gosh I have thrown tons of those away. I should have saved them and became rich!
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  #28  
Old 08-06-2017, 04:30 PM
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You need to variac the chassis real quick to verify the crt has not gone to air, getting super high readings like that makes me question whether it has gas in it. In my experience an AX that has top of the scale readings on all guns is usually gassy, even the tube in MY COLORCASTER (I bought Ben's set) tests like new, but it doesn't tip the scales all the way on all guns like that one does.

If it is indeed good, you have a winner there. But until you've had HV and a picture on it, all bets are off. Remember: a gassy tube that hasn't yet burned out its heaters will show good readings on test, but still glow purple upon HV application. Hence the only quantitive test is to run it on a chassis, if you get something on the screen it's good.
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  #29  
Old 08-06-2017, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniman82 View Post
You need to variac the chassis real quick to verify the crt has not gone to air, getting super high readings like that makes me question whether it has gas in it. In my experience an AX that has top of the scale readings on all guns is usually gassy, even the tube in MY COLORCASTER (I bought Ben's set) tests like new, but it doesn't tip the scales all the way on all guns like that one does.

If it is indeed good, you have a winner there. But until you've had HV and a picture on it, all bets are off. Remember: a gassy tube that hasn't yet burned out its heaters will show good readings on test, but still glow purple upon HV application. Hence the only quantitive test is to run it on a chassis, if you get something on the screen it's good.
I would like to add,

When I first tested the CRT, it did not test this good at all. All guns tested maybe right above the G on the good scale. It didnt test this good until I let it cook for about 10 minutes at 6.3.
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  #30  
Old 08-06-2017, 07:54 PM
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So I put it on the variac and after maybe an hour and a half I was up to 100 volts and the 6CB5 started to red plate in the middle of the plate (No HV either). The set is missing most of its tubes, but I did have in the HV cage tubes, the damper, the H out tube, and the vertical out tube. I forgot to add the horizontal multiplier tube so that may account for the red plating 6CB5 and lack of HV. Current draw was about 2.5 amps and normal current is 3 amps at 117v. I must say I am very weary of applying full line voltage to the set with all the original filters, but I need to see if the Jug is gassy (Which I dont think it is.)by applying some HV to it. Everything else seemed to be normal, no burning smells and the power transformer only got lukewarm after being on for an hour and a half.
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