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#1
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I'm actually kind of afraid to disconnect the wires from the rectifier tube socket because I'm afraid I might accidentally reconnect them wrong and screw things up even more than they already are, especially since I don't which wires are the wires that Electronic M is talking about. I did post a schematic of the power supply for this TV on here, if someone could mark on the power supply which wires are the ones I need to disconnect and test I can get a better idea of which wires to disconnect and test without risking disconnecting more wires than need to be. |
#2
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Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 10-02-2019 at 10:02 PM. Reason: adding picture |
#3
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How many ohms is there between the ground and the white wire you unsoldered?
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#4
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There is 256.6 Ohms between ground and the white wire that I unsoldered from pin 2 of the 5U4 tube socket.
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#5
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Is that white wire connected to the same point as the negative side of C1A & B as it appears in your picture? If so it needs to be moved to the plus end of C1A. Also check to see if R93 is in fact still 15 ohms.
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Audiokarma |
#6
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I powered it up with that white wire disconnected from the 5U4 tube and it didn't arc anymore. I'm guessing that means that the Filter Choke may be bad? How hard is it to replace those and how expensive are they to buy? Also how necessary is it to have that filter choke in the circuit? Can the set be ran without it in circuit? |
#7
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Quote:
Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 10-03-2019 at 11:08 AM. |
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That seems quite low, some of that could be the electrolytics loading the circuit down as they charge. To me it looks like its ahead of the transformer and rectifier.
You could power it up and watch the rectifier tube for arcing, and red plating. |
#9
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without that white wire attached to the 5U4 tube socket the tube doesn't arc anymore which I'm guessing means that the filter choke is bad.
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#10
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Gotta keep dividing and conquering... you've cleared some of the more important parts, and found a a direction to follow to find the short. Keep at it. Don't let yourself get lazy or confused.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 10-03-2019 at 10:41 AM. |
Audiokarma |
#11
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#12
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Don't worry about replacing the choke until you know it's bad.
Heres how to test it. There' a black wire that is connected to the filter choke that leads to the lower end of the terminal strip where the electrlyics are connected. I can't see the other wire that come from the choke, but it too should be at the terminal strip. Mark these so that you can connect them back in the same places. Unsolder these wires and and see if you can get any resistance between it and the chassis. The reading with both wires off the choke should be infinity or at least in the several megohm range between the chassis and one of the choke leads The reading between the 2 leads off the choke should be low. Somewhere around 3 to 20 ohms for example. |
#13
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#14
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The filter choke is definitely necessary for proper power supply operation. It’s easy to install - there are only two leads. The bigger problem would be finding a replacement.
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#15
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Also wiggle the wires on L1 while rechecking for the short to ground to rule out a possible intermitent short . To be at infinity on one side of the choke is not possible.
The choke is simply one long run of wire on a transformer core. Edit: also make sure that when testing one lead on L1 that the other lead is not touching the chassis or other parts in the circuit. Last edited by Tube TV; 10-03-2019 at 12:49 PM. |
Audiokarma |
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