#16
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Quote:
Low anode voltage is a big problem with the 5 chassis, which exacerbates brightness issues with a CRT that isn't as efficient as later ones. Quote:
There are two things I have yet to try: installing a solid state 3A3 replacement, and feeding the horizontal section more B+ by using silicon rectifiers in the power supply. I would still run the rest of the chassis on the 5U4 rectifiers, only horizontal would get a boost. I've come to the conclusion that the flyback in the 5 has higher primary D.C. resistance, which means you can only sink so much current into it at a given B+ value. Can't change the flyback windings, so the only thing you can try is feeding it higher amplitude pulses. This may in fact lead to higher anode voltages, but I'm not sure what effect it would have on sweep width and so on. Another possibility is subbing another flyback, but that's not an easy chore.
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Evolution... |
#17
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Break down. Do it! Hold your nose. control your emotions. DO IT!
SpellmanHV.com SMS series. (not cheap, of course.) Last edited by dtvmcdonald; 01-25-2017 at 08:49 AM. Reason: removed a joke |
#18
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I went back to fiddle with the purity today, because I noticed the lower center reds have some green impurity, enough to mess up skin tones. Went back to ground zero with edge magnets retracted, degaussed the tube, but I cannot get rid of it. Just above center is reasonably pure, but just below center is greenish.
I also noticed when adjusting the purity rings that when the purity towards the top edge goes out, it shows up in finger-width "waves" of impurity. This higher order effect is surprising and must be due to detailed yoke winding structure, I guess. I'm also considering whether fiddling with some small added magnets (strictly ad hoc, have never seen it recommended) might help. Question for those who have done more 21AX setups: When you degauss the tube, do you do it entirely from the front, or do you also run the coil into the back of the set and around the CRT bell? |
#19
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Not had a good AXP to set up, but on the later glass types degausing the back of the CRT can be useful on some tough cases.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#20
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I'll try it - can't hurt, anyway.
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Audiokarma |
#21
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OK - latest on trying for better purity.
I tried degaussing the cone of the tube from the rear, as well as the front, and along the way discovered I had not fully retracted a couple of the edge magnets. In thinking about the procedure, I had always had a vague feeling that the reason for retracting the magnets as the first step was to protect them from the degausser, but on further thought, I realize that using the degausser with the magnets not retracted would actually magnetize the CRT in the opposite direction of the edge magnet fields (just the same as degaussing actually magnetizes the CRT opposite the Earth's field, to make the net field close to zero). So, this morning, I was careful to retract all the edge magnets and then did the full front and rear degaussing again. This greatly improved the center purity. The edge magnet strength required is now rather large on the right side and lower right, much less on the left side, and very little on top. So besides retracting the edge magnets before degaussing, the procedure should also say don't try to do any "touch up" degaussing after the edge magnets are adjusted, unless you are willing to go back to ground zero again. |
#22
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It's pure hell. Try to get it "just a little better" and end up undoing all your previous work.....
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"Restoring a tube TV is like going to war. A color one is like a land war in Asia." |
#23
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People said the shadow-mask CRT would never work, and they were right!
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#24
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People also said .... it was a standing joke. "When you buy a color TV, you need to hire an on call television engineer to maintain it."
__________________
Personal website dedicated to Vintage Television https://visions4netjournal.com |
#25
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Latest news on owning this white elephant:
The last time I turned it on, the blue dynamic convergence was out again (that's what I thought at a quick glance - it was really ALL dynamic convergence gone). So, I went in the back and wiggled the blue H wire that seemed to be the problem before, but it had no effect. My first thought was "Now it's permanently broken, I will have to sub the cloverleaf." But when I reached for the convergence plug, I had a better thought and wiggled it - Voila! Dirty connections. A little exercise of the contacts, and it's back to where I struggled to get it months ago. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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Nice!! Ever end up needing any of those coils?
__________________
"Restoring a tube TV is like going to war. A color one is like a land war in Asia." |
#27
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Well, I don't need them now, but good to have a backup, and the pots may still be useful.
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#28
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A little expansion - I've been too busy/lazy to extract and open the pots, but still hoping they aren't burned like every other example I've seen. That 100 ohms tapped at 25/75 was just a bad idea for carbon pots.
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#29
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The static convergence pot elements appeared to have shrunk with age on my CTC5. This led to an open carbon element which resulted in intermittent static convergence problems. The shrinkage caused a crack in the carbon element at the rivet where the element was tapped. I ended up using a conductive paint normally used for repairing car window heating elements to bridge the gap on the carbon element.
The paint was applied four years ago and the pot is still fine. |
#30
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Quote:
The proper setting on mine is very close to the tap, and that is the place that's broken. I thought it was due to burning the element. |
Audiokarma |
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