#31
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#32
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Now I do have more brightness range, so that is good. As for the jail bars, they're still there. I changed the diode since I had to unsolder the existing to test. I didn't bother with the 100K resistors as I have the scope now and figured I'd try that before more part replacement.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#33
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you need to check the other voltage at the pins of the CRT the cathodes/G1 and G2.
It does not follow that you can not get the setup to work with the switch. If the crt test good it should work, if it does not work there is a problem. |
#34
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...
Last edited by andy; 12-05-2021 at 07:55 PM. |
#35
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Okay, here's where I get lost. Finding the G2 lines was easy. I just connected to them at the pots. As for the G1 lines, I don't know which ones they are. The G2s are all white with red, blue and green stripes. Then I have yellow wires with red, green and blue stripes and solid color red, green and blue wires. That makes three sets of wires and no indication in the SM as to which sets are which. I do know the black is focus, though.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
Audiokarma |
#36
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Quote:
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#37
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the best way is to simply pull the crt socket back just enough to expose the pins, then using the rat shack spring loaded prob you clip on to one pin at a time (neg to chassis) and get a reading. you want the socket to be on enough to still work the CRT. As far as what pin is what, you should look up the CRT (google) and it will be listed along with pin out. stay away from the focus pin it will be the one that has space between it and the other pins on both sides.
dont try and just use the prob directly to the expose pin, it can be done but you risk slipping and shorting out on pin to another. far better to get it all hooked up and make sure nothing is shorted then power up, get a reading, power down and move to the next pin. oh one last thing, if you do this a lot you use a socket adapter that goes between the CRT pins and the socket, it has test point that are clearly labeled that make checking pin voltage easy. Last edited by DaveWM; 08-23-2013 at 11:26 AM. |
#38
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I'll put the values in the SM first and then actual. SM Values Actual Values 2 = 143 153 6 = 142 144 11 = 142 147 3 = 36.4 33.4 7 = 36.4 33.4 12 = 36.4 33.4 4 = 590 600 5 = 640 548 13 = 540 540 All the numbers seem good and within range. Pin
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 Last edited by TinCanAlley; 08-23-2013 at 12:30 PM. |
#39
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hmm, well thats odd that you can't get the setup to work then.
my service manual shows 180v at the collectors of output transistors when in the service mode. check that. again extreme care with the probes or you can smoke a SS device is a fraction of a second. |
#40
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Kind of late, but my skills at reading the schematics must be getting better. I just found that there are test points for the G1s at the chroma gain taps. Seems T, S and R are the G1s and you can measure the voltage from there. I just did that and got the same voltages there as the pins (well within a volt).
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
Audiokarma |
#41
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good now check them in the service mode. I think it should be close to the 180v
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#42
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Will have to flip her over for this one. The output transistors are TO39 casings and the legs were cut so they sit flush to the socket. I'll have to do it from the bottom.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#43
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Oh, never mind. Seems the test points I found are the collectors you mentioned. No need to flip her.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#44
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I am a little behind you, try checking at those same point you found, should be close as I think there is only a 1k resistor between them and I doubt there would be a lot of voltage drop.
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#45
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Quote:
Red = 197V Blue = 184V Green = 192V
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
Audiokarma |
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