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  #16  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:38 PM
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Resoldered the wire back on the terminal. Still dead as a hammer. No audio either. Something's fishy. I'm getting tubes glowing, but there seems to be no B+ at all.
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Want to find a Zenith Space Command 400 or 600 Color set, an RCA CTC-21/30, and Sylvania Tube Color set.
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  #17  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:44 PM
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Did you check for continuity across the circuit breaker? Sometimes those contacts can be flaky when the set has been setting unused for a long spell. That circuit breaker only affects the B+.
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:51 PM
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I didn't check the continuity, but I did spray it and move it back and forth a bunch. The Kill-A-Watt said that it drew 119 watts, .99 amp, and had a .97 power factor.
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Want to find a Zenith Space Command 400 or 600 Color set, an RCA CTC-21/30, and Sylvania Tube Color set.

Last edited by TUD1; 04-10-2017 at 11:43 PM.
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  #19  
Old 03-20-2017, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
I didn't check the continuity, but I did spray it and move it back and forth a bunch. The Kill-A-Watt said that it drew 119 watts, .99 amp, and had a .97 power factor.
You can access the B+ where the voltage doubler diodes are mounted to the terminal strip on the top side of the chassis. B+ is the anode side of the one diode where the red (or orange?)wire heads off to the filter choke. Those diodes are M1, M2 on the sams schematic. Normally there's about 400 volts DC at that red wire.

Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 03-20-2017 at 10:28 PM.
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  #20  
Old 03-20-2017, 10:35 PM
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Just paralleled a fuse in across the circuit breaker, it blew. Just in the time it took for the fuse to blow, TWO of the filter cans got really warm. The 160μF at 250 volts is dead shorted. Broke the terminal off, and was able to get audio but STILL no raster. The horizontal still might not be running, I saw the 6DQ5 red plating.
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  #21  
Old 03-20-2017, 11:07 PM
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Sounds like you're going to have some recapping fun. I just took a look at my 11 chassis and the B+ is the red/white wire on that terminal strip lug closest to the back of the chassis. The red/green wire is where to two diodes anode and cathode join together in the center of the terminal strip. Those two 160uf caps along with the two diodes form the voltage doubler, so they definitely need to be healthy and reasonably matched in value caps. I just rebuilt the can caps in my 11 two weeks ago and they are not the easiest things to get at.

Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 03-20-2017 at 11:11 PM.
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  #22  
Old 03-20-2017, 11:13 PM
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Unfortunately, I'm no longer a member at my local radio club, and have no access to components of any sort. I'm going to be organizing my garage this week, so that will at least give me space to work.
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  #23  
Old 03-21-2017, 12:06 AM
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Can your friend Danny help you find the correct parts? These 10's and 11's are especially crowded under the chassis in the filter cap area. I have heard of some folks finding room under the chassis to replace caps, but that did not look like a viable option to me. There's too many wires that need those cap terminals as tie points, and so little space to add any terminal strips.
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  #24  
Old 03-21-2017, 10:04 AM
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Yeah, I talked to him last night. I'll be going back over there soon to get a picture tube and other stuff, I'll get him to help me fix it up.
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Want to find a Zenith Space Command 400 or 600 Color set, an RCA CTC-21/30, and Sylvania Tube Color set.
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  #25  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:52 PM
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I rearranged a little bit...

The CTC-11 is extremely HUGE. So much so that the only way to get it in my room was to take the door off the hinges. When I got it in my room, I had to lift it straight up in a cramped space to get it on top of the Admiral combo. I feel really stupid now for not taking the chassis out beforehand, since it has to come out anyway. It hangs over the Admiral on all four sides. The only way to use the record player is to slide the TV over. I feel pretty bad for the Admiral though. I'm not comfortable with it carrying so much weight.
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Want to find a Zenith Space Command 400 or 600 Color set, an RCA CTC-21/30, and Sylvania Tube Color set.

Last edited by TUD1; 04-10-2017 at 11:43 PM.
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  #26  
Old 03-21-2017, 08:01 PM
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I would replace all the electrolytics at the top of the chassis. My CTC9C nearly lost it's power transformer from one of them being just slightly leaky. No heating on the can but a HOT power transformer. Replacing them made the transformer run warm but I can give the set its four hour weekly run with no problem.
The CTC11 is a great set!
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  #27  
Old 03-21-2017, 09:45 PM
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Spent about 45 minutes cleaning up the exterior of the set today. Used Novus No.1 on all the knobs except the channel knob since it's falling apart. Used Invisible Glass on the front glass and CRT, and they are both nearly spotless. Used a toothpick to clean in between the grooves on the black knobs at the bottom. Going to see Danny this weekend, the set will be getting all new lytics and a flyback. I'm looking forward to seeing this set working!
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Want to find a Zenith Space Command 400 or 600 Color set, an RCA CTC-21/30, and Sylvania Tube Color set.

Last edited by TUD1; 04-10-2017 at 11:42 PM.
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  #28  
Old 03-24-2017, 12:00 AM
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Met up with my friend Gene today and did some swapping. I gave him my 1962 RCA B&W portable, and he gave me an NOS flyback and other stuff for my CTC-11.
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Want to find a Zenith Space Command 400 or 600 Color set, an RCA CTC-21/30, and Sylvania Tube Color set.
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  #29  
Old 03-24-2017, 12:10 AM
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Well you can't beat having friends with Roundie TV parts!

Is your 11's fly know to be bad, or is it a "just-in-case" spare?

Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 03-24-2017 at 12:29 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #30  
Old 03-24-2017, 12:13 AM
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I looked at the fly that's in there, and it looks pretty good, except that the HV rectifier tube plug in thing (I'm too tired for this) is crispy.
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